Kottayam: Life is Beautiful

When the sun furtively peeps out from behind clouds on a monsoon day, a lazy glow envelops the fields of Kottayam. Rain-kissed fields preen under the attention of the stray sunbeam, while coconut palms sway in the soft breeze and blue waters cut across this swathe of emerald green. As bright colours emerge from an otherwise gloomy day, it seems as though the earth has stolen a rainbow from the sky. There is an indubitable air of poetry in the palm-fringed backwaters in Kottayam. These musings are evoked not by flashy celebrations or boisterous acknowledgement of the beauty here, but by day-to-day routines woven into the land: in the aroma of a spicy duck roast, the ergonomics of the ubiquitous rubber plantations, and the stern black and white letters of freshly printed newspapers.

The story of Kottayam goes back to the time of the Kulasekhara kings (1090–1102 CE) when this region was part of Vempolinad – a fact that gave the Vembanad Lake, which shares its shoreline with Kottayam, its name. Around 1100, Vempolinad was divided into the Thekkumkur and Vadakkumkur kingdoms, which together extended over the modern districts of Pathanamthitta, Idukki, Ernakulam and Alappuzha – the heart of Kerala’s rubber and spice plantation region. These kingdoms traded peacefully with the Portuguese and Dutch till the 15th century, but were later suppressed into becoming subordinate allies of colonizing European powers. The magnificent churches of this lakeside town can be traced to this period. By the mid-18th century, the Thekkumkur and Vadakkumkur regions were annexed by King Marthanda Varma and thus became part of the powerful Travancore Empire.

Kottayam’s natural beauty and radiance are underscored with hardearned credentials. The rubber and spice plantations have made it a thriving commercial hub. It was also the first town in India to achieve 100 per cent literacy. Not surprisingly, the first college and printing press in Kerala came up here, as well as the first daily newspaper in Malayalam. This heart of Kerala’s publishing industry is also hoping to add an ‘eco-city’ tag to its many labels. Kottayam is a melting pot of varied cultural and religious influences. Tucked within its folds is also the town that writer Arundhati Roy put on the world map, both somewhat somnolent and bursting with colour.

ORIENTATION

The railway track follows the course of the Meenachil River into Kottayam. The railway station lies at the northern end of the city, flanked to the south by the Kodoor River, whose waters feed the Vembanad Lake. A short walk towards the south from the station bring visitors to the arterial Shastri Road, to the west of which lies the centre of Kottayam town, the Seematti Circle, marked by the Thirunakkara Temple. Not so far from the circle is Baker’s Junction, another important landmark, while running parallel to Shastri Road is the Kottayam-Kumily Road (a stretch of NH220, also known as KK Road). The Main Central Road (a stretch of SH1, also known as MC Road) and the TB Road (known less commonly as Dominic Thomman Road) lead south from Seemati Circle to the Kodimatha Boat Jetty on the Kodoor River, where quite a few operators offer boats for backwater tours. Take the KK Road east to get to the Cheriapally and Valiapally Churches, and the Thazathangady Mosque.

Canoes transporting passengers across Vembanad Lake

Prashant Panjiar

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

While Kottayam is best known for its backwaters and houseboats, it also has many beautiful religious monuments and heritage structures for the curious traveller.

Thirunakkara Mahadeva Temple

The leaves of a huge banyan tree rustle in salutation by the tiny temple entrance, which give no indication of the grandeur of the Shiva temple lying beyond the threshold. The Thirunakkara Mahadeva Temple, built by a Thekkumkur Raja over a period of 500 years, is an edifice of immense grace and beauty. Not even remotely ostentatious, it offers a subtle, simple and spacious aesthetic – an embodiment of traditional Kerala temple architecture. Its highlight is the low-roofed stage, or koothambalam. Through the carved wooden bay windows on all four sides, the dances performed inside the koothambalam are visible even from the outside. To the right stands the anathottil, where the temple tusker is tethered. Subsidiary shrines commemorating Ganesha, Ayyappa and Murugan are located inside the outer praharam. The silence here is broken only during the pooja by the grand panchavadyam orchestra.

Location Thirunakkara Timings 5.00am–2.00pm & 5.00–8.00pm Photography ₹20 Videography ₹100 Tel 0481-2583898

St. Mary’s Knanaya Church, Valiapally

Not far from the temple, atop a small hill nursed by the Meenachil River, stands the ancient St. Mary’s Knanaya Church, also called Valiapally Church or the ‘big church’. It was built in 1550 on land gifted by Goddavarma Raja of the Thekkumkoor royal family to the descendants of Syrian Knanaya Christians who had migrated to India in the 4th century CE. The church has two granite Persian crosses, each carved from a single slab of stone, dated allegedly to the early centuries of the first millennium. Both bear inscriptions in Pahlavi, once the official language of the Sassanid dynasty of Persia and were brought here from an older church in Kodungalloor. The larger cross, placed on the southern altar, has an additional inscription in Syriac (in the Estrangelo script). The altar and ceiling are exquisitely carved and decorated with paintings depicting scenes from the Bible. The baptismal font, set in an alcove, is fairly large; over a metre in diameter.

Location Valiapally Timings 8.00am–8.00pm Main Feast St. George’s Feast on 24 April Tel 0481-2563324

Beautifully painted walls and ceiling in St Mary’s Orthodox Church

Saibal Das

St.mary’s orthodox Church, Cheriapally

A short distance from Valiapally stands the Cheriapally Church, or the ‘small church’, whose appearance contradicts its name, as the St. Mary’s Orthodox Church is neither small nor typically church-like in appearance. The church was built and consecrated by the Portuguese in 1579, under the patronage of the local Raja. As a result, the church embodies a unique blend of traditional Kerala temple and Portuguese architecture. The large outer walls, the hanging lamp in the hall and the granite pillars are reminiscent of Kerala’s temples, whereas the vegetable dye paintings on the altar walls and ceiling, depicting the life of Christ, are definitively Portuguese and are as old as the church itself. Unfortunately, heritage conservation was not given priority in the recent renovation, and the paintings on the lower half of the altar wall have been ruthlessly whitewashed, ruining their beauty.

Timings 8.00am–6.00pm Main Feast 15 January Tel 0481-2566744

Thazathangadi Juma Masjid

Close to the two churches, on the banks of the Meenachil River, stands the beautiful Thazathangadi Juma Masjid. This is one of the oldest mosques in India, believed to be over 1,000 years old. Its architecture is unique; made of teak, it largely resembles a temple or a palace, with a square inner courtyard, an exquisitely carved wooden gabled roof, a traditional bathing area and latticed windows.

Location In Thazathangadi, 4km from Kottayam Timings 7.00am–6.00pm Tel 0481-2584610

TIP Only men may enter

Backwater Escapes

The Kottayam experience will not be complete without an expedition on the waters of the Vembanad Lake. Several operators at the jetty in Kodimatha offer tours around the lake. Charges for day-long boat rides range between ₹225 and ₹300. An efficient way to experience all that the lake has to offer is to go on a day-long package tour with stopovers at a manmade island called R Block, (2hrs), the Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary (30min) and Pathiramanal Island (1hr), en route to Alappuzha (2hrs).

TIP Time in the brackets indicates speedboat journey to each place

Entrance of Thazathangadi Masjid

V. Muthuraman

It is possible to hire boats from Kottayam to all the sights detailed around the Alappuzha Backwaters. Two recommended operators at Kottayam are Dolphin Operators (Tel: 0481-2584352, Cell: 09846095400) and Cruise & Cruise Boat Service (Tel: 0481-2363805, Cell: 09846096494).

SHOPPING

Kottayam is known for its clothing and jewellery stores. KK Road is full of jewellery shops and sari showrooms. For Travancore saris and dress material, head to Kasavukada in Arafa Towers, west of Thirunakkara Temple. To pick up traditional goldbordered, cream-coloured Travancore saris visit Seemati, with a special showroom called Temple of Silk, Narmada, Parthas and Pulimmootil Silk House, all located on MG Road, and all excellent places for the same. Amongst the jewellery shops worth visiting are Allapatt, Alukka’s and Bhima Jewellers.

WHERE TO STAY

There are plenty of hotels to choose from in Kottayam, within town and by Vembanad Lake. Kottayam also boasts of quite a few homestays.

Akkara House (Tel: 0481-2516951, 2518997; Tariff: ₹3,500–4,000) is a homestay set in a traditional Syrian Christian mansion on the river-bend of the Meenachil River, a few kilometres away from Kottayam. You will need a boat to get to your room here, which will overlook a central courtyard with steps leading down to the river. You can take cruises upriver to Aymanam, visit a rubber plantation and Kumarakom, and dine on traditional Syrian Christian cuisine.

Waterfront cottage at Windsor Castle

Courtesy Windsor Castle Resort

Prime location and great food are two major pluses if you choose Anjali Park (Tel: 2563661/ 68; Tariff: ₹1,500–4,200) on KK Road. All the major shops, the market and the Thirunakkara Temple are a few paces away. Pearl Regency (Tel: 2561123/ 25; Tariff: ₹2,500–8,000) in TB Junction is one of the best. Apart from suites, executive and standard rooms, they also have comfortabe apartments. Paradise Resorts (Tel: 2524721; Tariff: Rs. 4,500–8,000, houseboats ₹7,500– 15,000), near the Nazareth Church, has the Oottupura Restaurant and a travel desk. The Chrysoberyl (Tel: 2587000; Tariff: ₹4,500–8,000) on KK Road is a luxury property with all creature comforts. Hotel Aida (Tel: 2568391-92; Tariff: ₹1,300– 2,300) on MC Road has a multicuisine restaurant.

The Windsor Castle (Tel: 2363637-40; Tariff: ₹3,500–6,500) on the banks of Vembanad Lake has rooms done up in both the modern and traditional styles. The Lake Village Resort (Tel: 2363637-40; Tariff: ₹6,500), connected to the Windsor, has cottages designed like traditional illams and tharavadus, with lots of woodwork, facing the waters. Boating, fishing and Ayurvedic treatments are added pluses. Kalathil Lake Resort (Cell: 09946703007, 09946711183; Tariff: ₹3,100–4,000) has a beautiful location and lots of activities. Vembanad Lake Resort (Tel: 2360866), currently under renovation, next door to Windsor, has cottages facing the lake. Their restaurant ‘Chakara’ serves fresh catch from the lake. Houseboat and speedboat cruises are organised.

Homestead Hotel (Tel: 2560467; Tariff: ₹860–1,688) is in the heart of town, with clean rooms and a restaurant. There are restaurants adjoining it that serve great North and South Indian food.

Cherian Ashram Ayurvedic Resort (Tel: 2371964; Tariff: ₹900– 2,500), on KK Road in Ayrattunada, has cottages and Internet. Athreya Ayurvedic Resort (Tel: 07034071717, Cell: 09072721727; Tariff: On request) has 17 cottages and offers guests dental tourism as well as Ayurvedic therapy.

Tastefully done interiors of a suite, Windsor Castle

Courtesy Windsor Castle Resort

There are also simple homestays, offering traditional Keralite food, on the outskirts of Kottayam. Kaithayil Paddyside Nest (Tel: 2460269; Tariff: US$ 100, with meals), 17km from Kottayam in Vakathanam, has two rooms, and offers houseboat and elephant rides. Kanjirakkattu Heritage Home (Tel: 256064, Cell: 098471245737; Tariff: ₹1,900–3,200) on Panayaiazhippu Road, offers three rooms.

For a luxurious plantation experience, try Serenity (Tel: 2456353; Tariff: €130–230) at Kanam Estate (40km outside Kottayam). It is a renovated 1920s bungalow set amidst spice gardens and rubber plantations.

Attractive façade of Vembanad Lake Resort

Courtesy Vembanad Lake Resort

WHERE TO EAT

Kottayam’s distinctive cuisine is influenced heavily by Syrian Christians. Churuttu, kozhalappam, meen mappas, vella appam, kodampulli meen curry are all signature Kottayam dishes. Karimpumkala, once a favoured toddy shop that has now turned into a wayside restaurant on the Changanassery Road, is famous for its hot and spicy seafood. Tiger prawns, crabs and oysters are good choices, as is the roast duck or duck curry. Try the deadly combo of kappa (tapioca) and karimeen (pearl spot fish), best when washed down with kallu (toddy) at Vyshali Restaurant in Manipuzha. Vyshali’s special fried frog legs are also worth sampling. It is possible to pick up sweets and savouries at Anne’s Bakery in Bakery Junction. Best Bakers, opposite the Collectorate, is another place to buy Syrian Christian treats.

AROUND KOTTAYAM

St. Mary’s Forane Church (10km)

The 9th century CE St. Mary’s Church at Athirumpuzha was built on land donated by a Brahmin family in Ettanasseri in gratitude for the male heir born to the family after they had prayed to Virgin Mary. Its rusty gold altar has exquisite filigree work. The statue of St. Sebastian located in this church was brought here by Portugese sailor Leonard D’Cruz in 1687. The crucifix here is unique as it depicts Jesus Christ without a single wound.

Timings 9.30am–1.00pm & 3.30–6.00pm Tel 0481-2730559, 2730742

Mannanam (11km)

Besides being associated with the Blessed Father Kuriakose Elias Chavara (who was known for bringing about miracle cures and was canonised as a saint by the Vatican), Mannanam is known for being the seat of the first seminary of the Malabar Church (1833), the first Catholic Sanskrit School in Kerala (1846), the first private printing press (CMS Press started by Reverend Benjamin Bailey in 1846) in Kerala, the first Catholic English School (1846), and the first daily newspaper in Malayalam, the Deepika (1887). The St. Joseph Church, built in the 19th century in Mannanam, has been renovated many times but retains its original altar, with gold filigree work and paintings by Tamil artists. To the right of the church is the old Sanskrit school, now a small museum. The Chavara Art Museum preserves a brilliant repertory of church history.

Timings 6.00am–7.30pm Main Feasts Blessed Kuriakose Elias Feast on 3 January; Feast of St. Joseph on the third Sunday after Easter Tel 0481-2598350

Shiva Temple, Ettumanur (12km)

Located around 12km to the north of Kottayam is this Shiva temple, the most significant of a triumvirate of Shiva temples. The remaining two are located at Kadathurthy and Vaikom respectively. An inscription at the base of the circular shrine dates the consecration of the temple to 1545 CE.

Timings 4.00am–12.30pm, 5.00– 8.00pm Photography ₹20 Videography ₹50

Panachikkad Temple

Saibal Das

Panachikkad Temple (13km)

En route to Changanassery lies this 800-year-old Saraswati temple. The idol in this temple is housed in a sunken tank, open to the sky and surrounded by rare species of creepers as well as a pond fed by a spring. This unusual setting is flanked by a Yakshi grove and an ancient Vishnu temple.

Timings 5.00–10.30am & 5.00–7.30pm

Changanassery (18km)

The people of Changanassery take immense pride in their town’s name, derived from the marriage of the words shankhu, natham and sseri. According to legend, the 12th century Thekkumkur King Udaya Marthanda Varma built a temple, a church and a mosque equidistant from one another, so as to be able to hear the sound of the shankhu (the call of the conch), the natham (the chiming of the church bells) and the sseri (the muezzin’s call) each morning. The rituals and festivals of the temple, church and mosque are all interlinked, paying testimony to Kottayam’s syncretic traditions. Today, these three houses of worship are located a few paces from one another. The Kavil Bhagwati Temple, with its gopuram and goldplated flagstaff, venerates Goddess Kali and welcomes the annual procession from the Pazhayapally Mosque and the Easter procession from St. Mary’s Metropolitan Cathedral. The cathedral, with its green and gold altar, welcomes processions from the mosque and the temple in turn, and the mosque, with its ancient maqbara (tomb), completes the picture of religious amity and tolerance.

TIP Only men may enter the Pazhayapally mosque