Kunkeshwar: Light of the Silvery Moon

The sloping dunes of Kunkeshwar, visible past palm trees and from the road that leads up to the shore are a precursor to the real, rugged beauty of the beach. This wide, open stretch is seldom visited, not even by the pilgrims at the Kunkeshwar Temple. The temple’s multi-coloured spire reaches for the blue sky and gives the beach its name – Kunkeshwar, meaning Lord Shiva. Legend has it that an Arabian trader’s boat got caught in a storm off the Kunkeshwar Coast a few hundred years ago. He would’ve drowned if not for the light glowing in the erstwhile Shiva temple, which Yadava rulers had built in 1100. The light guided him to the safety of the shore and he built a new temple there as an expression of his gratitude.

There is indeed much to look forward to at Kunkeshwar. There’s the sunset, when the sun appears like a glittering diamond on the horizon. There are the hapus mangoes, popular across the world. There is the gleaming white sand and waves. But the best gift of all comes at night, when the sea shimmers because of phosphorescence.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

The temple at Kunkeshwar is a must-visit for followers of Lord Shiva. Those who wish to give the temple a miss may head straight for the beach located at the base of the temple.

Low tide and sweeping sands at Kunkeshwar Beach

Bharat Aggarwal

The Beach

Go past the shops in front of the temple, descend the steps to the back of the temple. There, in front of you is an empty beach. Besides little fishing boats, a stray dog or two and a few crabs, the beach is all yours. For a panoramic view of the sea, climb up the slope behind the temple, past giant banyans. Sit here and watch the sun go down.

In the winter months, as night draws, the sea comes alive because of phosphorescence. Every rippling wave is crested with a streak of peculiar light that grows in intensity, tingeing the waves with green and white before disappearing.

It’s a rare phenomenon along the western coast; the phorescence is caused because of the presence of microscopic sea organisms, especially crustaceans, which, small as they are, collectively look like liquid silver when disturbed.

Kunkeshwar Temple

The temple is a monolith with tiers of bright colour on the outside. However, the serenity inside belies its newly paint ed exterior. Lotus flowers, coconut offerings, the temple bell that clangs now and then, and the scent of incense calm the senses. The original architecture of the temple is still visible in a few parts.

Note People of all faiths visit the temple. Dress conservatively

The Shiva temple by the sea

Courtesy MTDC

Tara Mumbri Beach

About 4 km north of Kunkeshwar, Tara Mumbri is a little village with a beach. Here too, at sunset, the surreal phosphorescence phenomenon occurs in the sea. On the beach, you’ll see fishermen getting ready to go out to the sea for the evening catch, while local women trawl for clams with plate-sized nets in ankle-deep water.

Devgad

Devgad is a town 27 km away, dotted with mango groves. The trees swoop down to touch the ground, their branches jewelled with pendulous green fruit. The houses here have Mangalore tiles and courtyards; there are hibiscus hedges and golden cashew fruits; and you are sure to run into a scarecrow in the mango groves. Most farmers are a tad bit skeptical of the idea of people walking around in their orchards but you can try and get permission.

True to its name, Devgad (literally, House of God) is dotted with temples, the biggest being the Gajbadevi Temple at Mithbao (Dagare Wadi), and Vimleshwar Temple. The latter is 14 km from Devgad, and is dedicated to Lord Shiva. Stone elephants guard the entrance. Both shrines are open through the day. The Rameshwar Mandir falls on the road to Vijaydurg, at Achara, 23 km from Malvan. The main idol of Lord Shiva here, mounted on a Nandi bull, is believed to be made of solid silver, weighing 50 kg. The samadhi of Sambhaji Angre (son of Kanoji Angre and his first wife Mathurabai) is located nearby.

Devgad’s windmills standing tall against a blue sky

Bharat Aggarwal

Despite its fame as a mango capital, Devgad is also a fishing town. To see where the catch comes from, take a stroll towards the jetty in the evening. Also stop to look at the ultramodern windmills on the way to Vijaydurg, standing like tall white storks against the sky.

The Devgad Fort was built by the Angres, who lost it to the marauding British in the early 1800s. What remains today are just ruins.

WHERE TO STAY

In and Around Kunkeshwar

Bhakti Niwas (Tel: 02364-2486750; Tariff: ₹250-300), just next to the Kunkeshwar Temple, lets out 18 rooms, of which only three have attached baths. Though it has the perfect location, the rooms are spartan. It doesn’t have a restaurant, though meals can be had at the eateries outside the premises.

In Devgad

Galaxy Resort (Tel: 02364-261789; Tariff: ₹1,800-2,100 for four people) offers four rooms with room service. Keep in mind that the hotel does not accept credit cards.

Located opposite the Devgad state bus stand, Hotel Parijat (Tel: 262302; Tariff: ₹400-1,000) has an attached restaurant, a TV in every room, and room service. If you’re here in April, the hapus bazaar is just a minute away. The hotel is not recommended for single women travellers. Cash only.

The Green Villa Guesthouse (Tel: 262540; Tariff: ₹650-1,200) at Jamsande provides breakfast, hot water and room service. It is located about 16 km from Kunkeshwar.

Flavours of the Konkan coast

Abhijit Bhatlekar

WHERE TO EAT

Sudha Shanti Uphar Graha Restaurant is at the entrance to the temple and is open from 7.00 am to 7.00 pm. They serve what is known as Konkani Brahman food, but you must order at least an hour in advance. More well-equipped is the Abhiruchi Restaurant, also situated at the foot of the temple. It serves Malvan vegetarian cuisine but again, you have to order well in advance. Besides the satisfying vegetarian thali, try the ukdeele modak (a fig-shaped sweet made from flour, steamed and stuffed with a sugar and coconut filling) and the aamras. Annapurna and Adhar, just outside the temple, offer nonvegetarian thalis.

Sanika Restaurant, behind Devgad’s state bus stand, serves typically Konkani vegetarian and nonvegetarian meals.

In Devgad, Diamond Hotel, opposite English School, is the best option, with excellent Konkani and Punjabi fare. They are open only for lunch and dinner. Prapanch, opposite the Government Hospital, is the only vegetarian restaurant here.

When to go November-February. For hapus, visit in April. Phosphorescence is seen in winter Location Kunkeshwar is on the South Konkan Coast, south of the mango capital Devgad and the sea fort of Vijaydurg Air Nearest airport: Dabolim, Goa Rail Nearest rail: Kankavli