Kunkeshwar: By the Light of the Silvery Moon               

The sloping dunes of Kunkeshwar, inching past palm trees and visible from the road that leads up to the shore are a precursor to the real, rugged beauty of the beach. This wide, open stretch is seldom visited, not even by the pilgrims at the Kunkeshwar Temple. The temple’s multi-coloured spire reaches for the blue sky and gives the beach its name – Kunkeshwar, meaning Lord Shiva. Legend has it that an Arabian trader’s boat got caught in a storm off the Kunkeshwar Coast a few hundred years ago. He would’ve drowned if not for the light glowing in the erstwhile Shiva temple, which Yadava rulers had built in 1100 CE. The light guided him to the safety of the shore and he built a new temple there as an expression of his gratitude.

There is indeed much to be thankful for at Kunkeshwar. There’s the sunset, when the sun appears to be a red, shimmering tika on the forehead of the horizon. There are the delicious hapus mangoes, popular across the world, waiting at the orchards at Devgad, just a few kilometres away. There is the white sand and the somewhat hushed whispers of the waves, all of which you can take in by yourself in the solitude of the beach. But the best gift of all comes your way in the night, when the waters of the sea shimmer because of phosphorescence. Occasionally, a few porpoises leap up out of the water, and the night is suddenly magical, as if a fairy has moved her wand somewhere, leaving behind a trail of twinkling stars.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

The temple at Kunkeshwar is a mustvisit for followers of Lord Shiva. Those who wish to give the temple a miss may head straight for the 2-kilometre stretch of beach located at the base of the temple.

The Beach

Go past the shops selling offerings in front of the temple, descend the steps to the back of the temple and feel the sand under your shoes. There, in front of you is an empty beach to run wild on. Besides little fishing boats, a stray dog or two and trotting crabs, the beach is all yours. For a panoramic view of the sea, climb up the slope behind the temple, past giant banyans. Sit atop the hillock and watch the sun go down.

In the winter months, as night draws in, the sea comes alive because of phosphorescence. Every rippling wave is crested with a line of a peculiar light that grows in intensity, tingeing the waves here and there with green and white before disappearing.

It’s a rare phenomenon along the Western Coast; the phosphorescence is created by microscopic sea organisms, especially crustaceans, which, small as they are, collectively look like liquid silver when disturbed.

Kunkeshwar Temple

The temple is a monolith with brightly coloured tiers on the outside. However, the serenity inside belies its newly painted exterior. Lotus flowers, coconut offerings, the temple bell that clangs now and then, and the scent of incense calm the senses. The original architecture of the temple is visible in a few parts.

Tip People of all faiths visit the temple. Dress conservatively

Tara Mumbri Beach

About 4 km north of Kun keshwar, Tara Mumbri is a little village with a beach. Here too, at sunset, the surreal phosphorescence phenomenon occurs in the sea. On the beach, you’ll see fishermen getting ready to go out to the sea for the evening catch. Local women trawl for clams with plate-sized nets in ankle-deep water while their children jump around pretending to help.

Devgad

Reached via winding roads from Kunkeshwar, Devgad is a town 27 km away, dotted with mango groves. The trees swoop down to touch the ground, their branches jewelled with pendulous green fruit.

The houses here have Mangalore tiles and courtyards; there are hibiscus hedges and golden cashew fruits; and you are sure to run into a scarecrow in the mango groves. Most farmers, however, are a bit skeptical of the idea of people walking around their orchards but you can try and get permission.

Vimleshwar Temple, by the Arabian Sea in Kunkeshwar

Bharat Aggarwal

True to its name, Devgad (literally, House of God) is also dotted with temples, the biggest being the Gajbadevi Temple at Mithbao (Dagare Wadi), and Vimleshwar Temple. The latter is 14 km from Devgad, and is dedicated to Lord Shiva. Stone elephants guard the entrance. Both shrines are open through the day. The Rameshwar Mandir falls on the road to Vijaydurg, at Achara, 23 km from Malvan. The main idol of Lord Shiva here, mounted on a Nandi bull, is believed to be made of solid silver, weighing 50 kilos. The samadhi of Sambhaji Angre (son of Kanoji Angre and his first wife Mathurabai) is located nearby.

Despite its fame as a mango capital, Devgad is also a fishing town. To see where the catch comes from, take a leisurely stroll to the jetty in the evening. Also stop to look at Devgad’s ultra-modern windmills on the way to Vijaydurg, standing like tall white storks against the sky. The Devgad Fort was built by the Angres, who lost it to the marauding British in the early 1800s. What remains today of its erstwhile eminence are just ruins. It’s located a few kilometres from the Devgad jetty.

TIP Devgad lies on the stretch north of Kunkeshwar and Tara Mumbri Beach. The easiest way to get here is to take the SH4 from Kunkeshwar, and a left onto SH116 at Jamsande for Devgad

SHOPPING

Besides the offerings sold outside the temple, there isn’t anything you can shop for at Kunkeshwar. But if you’re there in mango season, which falls in April–May, you can always head to Devgad and take a crate of hapus mangoes home (priced ₹1,200 per dozen). People pay as much as ₹3,000, if not more, for a crate (it’s all about demand and supply!).

WHERE TO STAY

There is only one hotel near the Kunkeshwar Beach, which is on the temple ground, built for pilgrims. Otherwise, all accommodation is to be found in or near Devgad. Most hotels don’t accept credit cards. Rates increase by 10 per cent in April and May when hordes of mango dealers lay siege on the town, so do book in advance.

In and Around Kunkeshwar

Bhakti Niwas (Tel: 02364-2486750; Tariff: ₹250–300), just next to the Kunkeshwar Temple, lets out 18 rooms, of which only three have attached baths. Though it has the perfect location, a stone’s throw from the beach, the rooms are spartan. It doesn’t have a restaurant, though meals can be had at the eateries right outside the premises. It’s crowded during Mahashivaratri and other holidays. They also have a hall, with single beds.

In Devgad

Galaxy Resort (Tel: 02364-261789; Tariff: ₹1,800–2,100 for four people), near Rangoli Hotel, offers four rooms with room service. Keep in mind that the hotel does not accept any credit cards.

Nivant Resort (Tel: 02364-262635, Cell: 09423369557; Tariff: ₹1,000– 1,600) near Kelkar College has five comfortable rooms. Vegetarian and non-vegetarian meals are provided here, on request.

The quaint Nivant Resort in Devgad

Courtesy Nivant Resort

Located opposite the Devgad ST Bus Stand, Hotel Parijat (Tel: 262302; Tariff: ₹400–1,000) has six rooms. We recommend you stick to the AC rooms as the others are unclean. Parijat has an attached restaurant, a TV in every room, and room service. If you’re here in April, the hapus bazaar is just a minute away. The hotel is not recommended for single woman travellers. Cash only.

Hotel Alankar (Tel: 262259, Cell: 09209608782; Tariff: ₹1,000–1,800), located near the market and behind the Devgad ST bus stand, is a family-run affair. The Green Villa Guesthouse (Tel: 262540; Tariff: ₹400–1,200) at Jamsande has five rooms. They provide breakfast, hot water and room service. It is located approximately 16 km from Kunkeshwar, ahead of Devgad.

WHERE TO EAT

Sudha Shanti Uphar Graha Restaurant is at the entrance to the temple and is open from 7.00am to 7.00pm. They serve what is known as Konkani Brahman food, but you must order at least an hour in advance in order to savour their cuisine. Konkani Brahman food makes generous use of coconut, especially in the curries, and has the distinctive sour taste of kokum (the purple berry of the Garcinia indica plant, indigenous to the region).

More well-equipped is the Abhiruchi Restaurant, also situated at the foot of the temple. It serves Malvan vegetarian cuisine but again, you have to place your order well in advance. Besides the satisfying vegetarian thali of rice, dal, vegetables, papad, pickle, chutney and sol kadi, the owner Vinayak Bhandari recommends the ukdeele modak (a fig-shaped sweet made from flour, steamed and stuffed with a sugar and coconut filling) and the aamras. Annapurna and Adhar, just outside the temple, offer good non-vegetarian thalis. Also, do try vade sagote, which are vadas made from multigrains, served with thick, mouth-watering chicken curry.

A mouth-watering spread of Konkani food

Abhijit Bhatlekar

Sanika Restaurant, behind Devgad’s State Transport bus stand, serves typically Konkani vegetarian and non-vegetarian meals and is open from 11.00am to 3.00pm and 7.00pm to 10.00pm. The food is tasty and is typically Konkani in its style of preperation.

In Devgad, Diamond Hotel, opposite English School, is the best option, with excellent Konkani and Punjabi fare. They are open only during lunch and dinner hours. Prapanch, opposite the Government Hospital, is the only pure vegetarian restaurant here.

AROUND KUNKESHWAR

Vijaydurg (37 km)

Once you step past Vijaydurg’s ancient wooden doors being held up by sturdy columns, you are transported back in time to a period when cannons roared and troops shouted ‘Jai Bhavani’ as they went to battle. Though most remembered for the Maratha emperor Chhatrapati Shivaji, who fortified it during the early 17th century by adding 27 bastions and 300 guns and a triple line of ramparts, Vijaydurg passed through several hands. It is said to have been built by Raja Bhoj II of the Panhala Shilahar dynasty in 1193. The Silaharas, the rulers of the Konkan, built the fort, and it later came under the Adilshahis, the Marathas and finally the British.

Massive walls hide various structures like khalbatkhanas (secret meeting rooms), bhuyaars (hidden underground passages) and jaangi, 100–150-ft walls built 4 m under the sea and designed to gain access to enemy vessels before they reached the port. Today, you can see cannon balls laid out in rows under banyan trees. There are dark stairways leading out to the sea, where a boat would’ve been waiting to help troops escape. Also note the acoustically designed council hall that amplifies sound inside and cuts it off outside.

The landmarks inside include four freshwater wells (right by the sea); a banyan tree that has grown out of one of the wells and developed thick roots that look like a serpent; and a temple to Goddess Bhavani. Also worthy of attention is the Sahebache Katte or the Englishman’s Platform. It is believed to have been set up by British scientist Sir J Norman Lockyer during the total solar eclipse of 1898. From Vijaydurg’s ramparts, there is a spectacular view, extending all the way to Ratnagiri.

Guides can be hired through the Paryatan Madati Samiti. Their office is right outside the fort. Entry fee to the fort is Rs. 5; and it is open from 8.00am to sunset.

Getting There It is a long drive from Devgad to Vijaydurg via SH4. The round trip takes over three hours

Where to Stay and Eat

If you wish to stay near Vijaydurg, MTDC’s Green Valley Fort View (Tel: 02364245333; Tariff: ₹1,800– 2,000) offers lovely sea views and has decent and comfortable rooms. Or try Durg Beach Resort (Cell: 08275002742; Tariff: ₹1,500–1,800, dorm Rs. 2,200–2,500). Both resorts offer excellent Konkani food.

Hotel Suruchi (Tel: 245335, Cell: 09420789482; Tariff: ₹800–1,300) offers six rooms. Its restaurant is known for delicious mashed brinjal, aloo bhaji and fish dishes, with aamras for dessert. Hotel Vijaydurg Palace (Tel: 245186, Cell: 09773583736; Tariff: ₹1,000–2,000), near the fort, has seven rooms. Its restaurant serves good Malvani food. Try the fish thalis. You can also choose to stay in the nearby towns of Kunkeshwar or Devgad.

There are some small restaurants that are situated just outside the fort but it’s better to eat at the hotels you are staying in.

Manna from Heaven

Devgad’s Mango

Kapil Taragi

Devgad’s world-famous hapus or Alphonso mangoes are the economic backbone of this little town. After all, in any Mumbai market, you pay the most for Devgad hapus. Affluent Gujaratis order them online and send them to friends across the world. Dealers come from far and wide to buy crates and crates of the tropical manna and the locals live the rest of the year off their earnings from these sales. On the drive to Vijaydurg and around the region, you can see Devgad’s mango orchards laid out in neat rows. If you can’t resist the urge to jump out of your car and pluck them off the trees, you’ll be well advised to watch out for estate managers and their ferocious dogs.