Lonavla-Khandala: Rain in the Valley

Closest to Mumbai and Pune, but a far cry from their bustle and din, Lonavla and Khandala make for a perfect getaway for the weary city dwellers. Boasting amazing locales, viewpoints and waterfalls, the cities are a runaway favourite with families. In addition, filmmakers from the Indian Film Industry also arrive here on a regular basis, armed with their state-of-the-art equipment. They discovered the potential of the rolling hills, steep cliff faces and gushing waterfalls as an impressive and economical shooting locale long ago. While Lonavla and Khandala can be visited throughout the year, it is needless to say that the entire area really comes into its own during the lovely monsoons. When the rains come, the towering Western Ghats are all but obscured by the thick mist of the rain-heavy clouds. The green of the valley turns so bright it is florescent, the smell of the damp earth is most acute and the downpour soaks one to the skin.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Lonavla/Khandala boast archaeological sites, picnic spots, viewpoints and even abandoned forts nearby. In fact, it is impossible to pack everything in one trip. That’s why visitors from Mumbai head this way again and again.

Bushy Dam

Located 6 km from the city centre, this dam is where most of the action lies. A most popular spot among holidaymakers, this dam is located bang in the centre of the valley, with magnificent views of the surrounding ghats. The best time to visit is during the monsoons when the water overflowing from the dam’s gates creates an artificial cascade. Visitors like to sit on the stone steps and enjoy the waterfalls but it is advisable to always be on one’s guard in case of a sudden surge in water level. Swimming is not allowed.

Karla and Bhaja Caves

The famous Karla and Bhaja caves lie about 15 km outside Lonavla en route to Pune. Carved out of sheer rock faces, these caves are a fine example of Buddhist temple architecture. It is quite easy to reach the base of the caves but ascending to the top is a completely different ball game. Visitors are recommnded to wear comfy walking shoes with a strong grip. Avoid the hike during heavy rains since the terrain gets slippery.

The 150-odd steps that lead upto Karla Caves are perilous, to put it mildly. The staircase is actually sheer rock, uneven, steep and slippery, with a narrow steel railing to hold onto in case one’s step falters. It is impossible to climb all the way up without taking a couple of breaks to catch your breath. Halfway up, stalls selling various odds and ends appear on both sides, their tarpulin roofs creating a sort of canopy to protect you from the sun and rain. At the top, a short walk leads to the Karla caves, famous for the two rows of decorated pillars that line the main hall. It is said that the caves have been built by Hinayana Buddhists in 80 BCE, and were later taken over by the Mahayana sect.

Outside the main chaitya, there is now a Koli Temple (Entry Indians ₹5; Foreigners ₹100). You will often see Koli fisherfolk walking up the hill in a trance, swaying and dancing all the way. The next part of their ritual involves sacrificing a goat or a couple of chickens. Exactly opposite the Karla ridge lie the Bhaja Caves. They are accessible from Bhaja village, located 400 m below the caves. Although the route to the caves is a little off the beaten track, locals are happy to help with directions. The nearest landmark is the Malavli railway station, from where Bhaja village is only a 3 km walk. Visitors usually park their cars here and begin the trek up the caves. The Bhaja Caves are a group of 22 rock-cut structures that date back to the 2nd century BCE. The most renowned structure here is the horseshoe shaped chaityagriha with the traditional stupa inside. These caves are better preserved than Karla.

Wax Museum

Along the lines of Madame Tussaud’s in London, this wax museum is a relatively new attraction in Lonavla. Huge signboards on the highway herald the sight and urge you to visit even before you enter Lonavla’s city limits. Since the property is privately managed, the entrance fee of Rs. 150 seems a bit pricey. However, visitors usually don’t mind paying owing to the novelty that the museum offers. Inside, life-size wax models of prominent Indian men and women are arranged in three large halls. Touching the statues is strictly prohibited and punishable by fine. To the sculptors’ credit, most statues bear a striking resemblance to their parent personalities.

Forts around Lonavla

Take the road from Lonavla that cuts across the Lohagad Ridge and then runs along the shores of Pawna Lake to get to Tikona Fort. At the top of Tikona are an ancient Buddhist cave and some water tanks. If you are up here early on a winter morning, you will see Tung Fort, clearly reflected in the waters of Pawna Lake. Tung Fort was really more of a watchpost or lookout tower since the top is not very large. There are some water tanks and ramparts that afford good views of Lohagad, Visapur and Tikona forts and Pawna Lake from the top. ST buses from Lonavla run to the base of Tung Fort, from where it’s less than an hour to the top.

While most forts are connected by ridges to other hills, Koregad Fort, embellished with a few ponds, stands in majestic solitude. A motorable road leads from Lonavla to INS Shivaji and on to Peth, from where it’s an hour’s walk to the top. Lohagad Fort (the iron fort) was so named because it was considered impregnable. From Malavli Station, take an auto to Bhaja village. From here, a path climbs up gradually to the ridge between the forts of Lohagad and Visapur. You will travel through a series of gates and up steep steps before you reach the top. The hilltop was originally used by Buddhist monks, who have left behind very basic rock-cut caves. That the Mughals also occupied this fort is evidenced from a dargah just opposite the entrance.

The spectacular chaityagriha housing the stupa, Bhaja Caves

Courtesy MTDC

Walk out towards the finger-like pro jection of a lava fissure called Scorpion’s Sting (vinchhu kanta). One thing to watch for are monkeys at Lohagad. For long fed by generous tourists, they will not hesitate to pounce and grab food out of your hand now. Visapur Fort is opposite Lohagad. The climb is a little steep in parts but not difficult at all.

TIP No entry fee to any of the above mentioned forts

Lake District

The Lonavla region is considered the Lake District of Western India because it is dotted with many lakes (all artificial). Many of these are secluded and remote. The Tata Electric Company owns several lakes in the area, which are used as catchments for the water needed to run their turbines. Please note that the lakes belonging to the Tata Electric Company, which were once open for fishing, are now no longer open to the public.

A small lake just outside Lonavla, Tungarli Lake is at its best just after the monsoons, though the water is still clear and deep right until December or January. The lake dries up by end-March. To get there, take the road that branches off left from the old Mumbai-Pune Highway in Lonavla, just after the ST bus station (3 km). Valvan Lake is a restricted area near the Valvan dam. Lonavla Lake, or Monsoon Lake, is another Tata lake, at its best just after the monsoons.

The expanse of Pawna Lake appears to stretch forever. There is now a road that one can take from Lonavla to Pawna (the lake has no access from the new expressway).The road to Pawna is 25 km long and the easiest way to get there.

TIP Swimming in the lakes is not advisable during the monsoons due to overflow

Angling

There is plenty of opportunity for angling in these parts of Maharashtra. Some basic fishing tackle (hooks, floats, line, etc) is available in Lonavla but come prepared with your own. It is always a good idea to check with officials at the tourist office and the locals beforehand, in case you end up with a fine for illegal fishing.

Birdwatching

Lots of opportunity for birdwatching as this region is home to many local species and the nesting place for some migratory species as well. In the woods in and around Lonavla and Khandala you’ll spot the paradise flycatcher, the pied kingfisher, the common kingfisher, parakeets and bulbuls, several varieties of kestrals and the magnificent forest eagle owl, along with a whole multitude of other birds. In the summer, the whistling schoolboy is in full throat and unmistakable.

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel tariffs vary quite a bit here. Advance bookings are an absolute must, especially during week ends and holidays.

In Lonavla

Fariyas Holiday Resort (Tel: 02114-273852-55; Tariff: ₹8,000–17,000) is a luxury resort set on a hillock amid lush greenery. Citrus Lonavla (Tel: 398100; Tariff: ₹5,500–10,000) is a charming option. Sahil Sarovar Portico (Tel: 270060; Tariff: ₹4,800–7,800) is a lovely property in Tungarli. Hotel Chandralok (Tel: 272294; Tariff: ₹4,200–6,700), near the post office, is a good option.

In Khandala

Week End Nursery and Cottages (Tel: 269090; Tariff: ₹3,000–7,000), next to PWD Guest House, is a quaint family-run place which is perfect for spending a relaxed weekend with loved ones. Owned and run by the Oberois (not of the luxury hotel fame), it’s well worth the price. The Duke’s Retreat (Tel: 269201; Tariff: ₹15,730–30,250, for 3D/ 2N), on old Mumbai-Pune Highway, overlooks the lovely Khandala Ghat and boasts of luxurious rooms.

In Karla

To spend a weekend exploring the caves, stay at MTDC’s Holiday Resort (Tel: 02114-282230, 282064; Tariff: ₹2,000–7,000). Day trippers can eat at their restaurant Indrani, which serves good food. Check out the water-sports and ‘Water World’ they offer by the Indrayani river. Another option is the Treasure Island Resort (Tel: 282505/ 10; Tariff: ₹5,500–11,000).

WHERE TO EAT

In Lonavla, Chandralok and Adarsh Hotels (Tel: 02114-272353) serve all-you-can-eat Gujarati thalis (₹330). There are numerous Udupi-style dosa and sambhar eating houses as well. Along the main Highway are dozens of restaurants. Street food and dhabas are also quite common.

Khandala too has many eating places, though they are more spread out than in Lonavla. There is the Kamat’s (Tel: 269123) garden restaurant as well as the El Taj, which serves up some good tandoori and Mughlai fare. Citrus Hotel, The Duke’s Retreat and Fariyas Resort are upmarket options. They have coffee shops and restaurants.

If you’re visiting the Karla and Bhaja caves around lunchtime, apart from MTDC, there’s the pure vegetarian Baywatch Branto Restaurant at Treasure Island Resort nearby, serving up a variety that includes Chinese, south-Indian, Continental and Gujarati food.

The Sweetest Thing

If you are from the sweet tooth clan, from the tribe that eats dessert before dinner is served, Lonavla has a whole industry that caters to just your kind. Sometime in the 1980s, Lonavla took over from Matheran as chikki capital of India. Its residents, it is alleged, have mastered the art of making that perfect sweet, brittle candy. Lonavla chikki is now famous around the country.

Even if you are not too fond of this sticky treat, the varieties and flavours that chikki can come in will certainly surprise you. The general variety of caramelised sugar and dry fruits or nuts – peanut, sesame, cashew, almonds, pistachios, walnuts, dates – are some of the more obvious ones.

An assortment of chikkis

Punit Paranjpe

Maganlals and A1 are the most famous chikki stores here. The chikki shops are invar iably crowded on weekends, so expect your purchase to take a while. You can taste each variety before deciding which ones to buy. Coopers definitely makes the best fudge and Frends comes a tasty second. Coopers only make a limited quantity so everything is sold out by 3.00 or 4.00pm. Their chocolate-walnut fudge is simply scrumptious.

Another interesting stop is Shakti Foods (near Lonavla Station at the junction leading to Ryewood Park). They specialise in amla juice and several other fruit drinks and crushes.

FAST FACTS