Maharashtra: Plateau with Five Hills

If you’re looking for an action-packed weekend somewhere glamorous, don’t bother with Panchgani. On the other hand, if all you want to do is get away from the maddening world, chill, drink some beer, go for quiet walks and believe in the journey being the destination, head straight there. Panchgani is a small, quiet town with a feel of the good old days. Charming old colonial cottages dot the hill station. More than three dozen boarding schools contribute to its lifestyle and atmos phere. The engaging sight of chirpy school kids out on an evening walk takes you right back to Enid Blyton’s Mallory Towers, read under the covers after bedtime. It also puts you in the perfect mood to hire bicycles and ride through town, dis cover by-lanes and indulge in a little innocent fun.

Most people will tell you that the best time to visit Panchgani is from October to April when it is at its coolest. However, many others like it best during the monsoons when the mist lends a surreal touch to the beautiful scenery. There’s still something glorious about getting soaked to the skin, or sitting in your hotel room and watching the rain drench the pretty landscape.

Things to See & Do

Panchgani derives its name from the five hills that surround it, literally meaning ‘plateau with five hills’.

There isn’t a lot to see in Panchgani, but there is a lot to do. It involves walking, ambling by chappal shops or just sitting and watching the world go by, indulging in local specialities such as the big trademark channa, or chomping on mirch masala-ed bhuttas (corn).

The abundantly grown strawberries here are delicious.

Driving in Circles

There is really nothing much to do in this laid-back place, other than driving around to explore the region. One of the nicest drives is to Tableland, Panchgani’s crowning glory. A vast, flat plateau, Tableland stretches far beyond what the eye can see and offers the most spectacular view of Panchgani’s pretty, colourful rooftops against the hilly backdrop. During peak season there is plenty of fun for children up here in the form of a ferris wheel, a toy train, pony and ho

Perfect vistas from Parsi Point

rse rides and many game stalls. One can also trek upto Tableland. The trek is simple and it takes half-an-hour to reach the top. You can also drive to Parsi Point for what is perhaps the best view around – Krishna Valley down below. Another great drive is to Wai, a historical town 14 km away, where you can wander around the village or go boating at Dhom Dam.

As a last resort, you could carry on to the nearby hotspot, Mahabaleshwar, 19 km away on a well-maintained road, for a delicious Gujarati thali at one of the many popular lodges there.

Rajpuri Caves

Being a hilly area, Panchgani has its share of caves. Off the beaten track are the Rajpuri Caves, 6 km from town. Of the four caves here, one has a temple of Lord Karthikeya, who is the son of Shiva.

Sherbaug

Sherbaug is a botanical delight with a huge cacti collection, just beyond the checkpost. There is a municipal garden, a restaurant and a processed food outlet here. The garden has seen better days, but the children’s park behind it offers many swings and slides.

Dhom Dam, built over the Krishna river near Wai

Panchgani’s Goodies

The pulse of Panchgani is the bazaar, full of quaint shops that are certain to catch your fancy. If you happen to be there mid-week, you’ll catch the Wednesday market, or Budh-ka-Bazaar, when villagers from around the area sell local produce at rock-bottom prices. Everything from organically grown fruits and vegetables to pots and pans and, yes, even chicken, finds its way into this typical village market. It is worth visiting just to witness the sheer colour, gaiety and cheerful confusion of a bazaar.

Where to Stay

There are lots of lovely options that suit the mood of Panchgani – homely, relaxed, warm and comfy.

Hotel Ravine (Tel: 02168-241060- 62; Tariff: ₹ 2,250–9,260), strategically located on an edge near Sydney Point on Panchgani-Wai Road with an overhanging tennis court, is recommended particularly for couples. Their Melting Pot restaurant serves Chinese, tandoori and south Indian.

Il Palazzo Hotel (Tel: 241300-02; Tariff: ₹ 2,600–10,000 per person, with meals) is a beautiful, old, sprawling English-style bungalow and has a pool, a large garden and good Parsi food. An extra nice touch is that the proprietors live on the premises and are like your personal hosts. Non-guests should call ahead for meals.

Prospect Hotel (Tel: 240263, 241999; Tariff: ₹ 6,750–7,500) is the first ever hotel built in Panchgani. Very private, very quiet, very nice. Non-guests can make reservations to enjoy Parsi meals, apart from their regular fare.

If you’re travelling with children, Blue Country Resort (Tel: 241521- 22; Tariff: ₹ 3,750–7,000), near Tableland, could be the ideal choice. It has a huge pool, a large play area where kids can enjoy and simple but good Gujarati food. They even maintain separate vegetarian and non-vegetarian kitchens. Another decent option is Hotel Mountcastle (Tel: 241307/ 09; Tariff: ₹ 2,500–7,500) near Dhandegar Naka. Hotel Millenium Park (Tel: 241771-73; Tarrif: ₹ 2,500–6,250) with a restaurant, bar and a swimming pool. It is located close to Bharti Vidhyapeeth. Pan Hill Resort (Tel: 240444; Tariff: ₹ 1,350–4,000) opposite the bus stand has heritage style architecture with modern rooms and facilities. Their restaurant is currently under rennovation.

Dolya Ganpati Temple at Wai

Situated in the foothills of Panchgani, 14 km towards the highway, is an ancient town rich in religious history. It is believed that the Pandavas stayed here in disguise during their agyatvasa.

The architecture of the city has remained almost intact since the olden days. The ancient buildings and massive stone gates evoke images of many bygone empires. The temples on the banks of Krishna river are worth a visit as they are well preserved and magnificent in their timeless splendour. On the outskirts of town are five forts, situated atop the surrounding hills, a delightful prospect for trekking enthusiasts. Kamalghat Fort, at 5,411 ft, is probably the most challenging. The Boat Club on the waters of Dhom Dam is a big tourist draw as well. You’d be fortunate to not find it too crowded. This reservoir is rather picturesque and the club provides tourists with water bicycles and steamers – you can either enjoy boating in the middle of the lake or go right to the edge, at the base of the Kamalghat Range. Dhom Dam can be reached by road from Panchgani after turning left just in front of the bridge across the river.

TIP Kerala Bakery, just after the ST Stand, has very tasty rusks

Where to Eat

There are several good options to eat in Panchgani. You can get the best patties and scones at the old-fashioned Roach Bakery (Tel: 02168- 240423) and keema pav at New Lucky Moon. Akbarally serves excellent pav bhaji and stuffed paranthas. Rasoi has finger-licking thalis and Rustom’s serves good Parsi cuisine. Past the bazaar, on the way to Mahabaleshwar, is Mapro – they make lovely jams and marmalade, always a handy gift.

But make sure to have at least one meal at the stalls at Hirkani, on the roadside just before Mahabaleshwar. Hilltop Ice Cream is another good place to enjoy ice-creams and milkshakes.