A lovely lake close to Srinagar, Manasbal has always played second fiddle to its more famous brethren. The origins of its name can be traced back to it being a pilgrimage destination for those who couldn’t make the arduous trip to Manasarovar Lake in Tibet. The Mughals did build a royal garden here, but it’s eclipsed by the gardens they built in Srinagar and Achabal. Even today, Manasbal lives in the shadow of Kashmir’s more famous lakes, Dal and Wular, a short drive away.
For Manasbal, this proximity has resulted in a twilight of sorts. Not many people know of it, and unjustifiably so. For while Manasbal might lack the tourist trappings of Srinagar or the wild allure of Wular, it possesses a charm of its own. It’s a friendly, quiet, nontouristy place that offers a respite from the crowds at the more popular destinations. And it does have its own claims to fame — at 13 metres, it’s perhaps the deepest lake in Kashmir. Manasbal is a major stopover for migratory birds, and best of all, in the months of July and August, the lotus blooms in abundance, covering the periphery of the lake in an almost ethereal glow.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Lying to the north west of Srinagar, Manasbal stretches around 3 km west to east, and just under 1 km north to south. Manasbal Park, developed by J&K Tourism, is on its eastern bank. To the south is the village of Kondabal, a centre of limestone extraction and brick kilns. And on the northern bank is Noor Jehan’s palace-garden, and the village named after it, Jharokha Bagh. Right behind Jharokha Bagh is the village of Safapora.
Manasbal Lake and Park
On the eastern bank of the lake and split into two by the Ganderbal-Manasbal road lies Manasbal Park. Maintained by the Department of Tourism, it’s the main attraction and pretty much the hub of all activity. The upper section of the park affords some great views across the lake. It’s also a lot smaller and quieter than the lower section, and the beautifully manicured lawns and flower beds make it a great picnic spot.
Head on down to the lower section of the park. At the southern end lies a small submerged Shiva Temple that’s been dated back to the 8th century CE. Discovered and restored only a few years ago, only the top, pyramid-shaped roof capstones are visible above the water. A walking path winds its way along the lake shore. There’s also a food court here, but as of now, it’s not operational and the stalls lie shuttered.
Head up north, and you’ll cross a bunch of snack stalls. Walk on further north to the main part of the park where sprawling lawns beckon you. During the summer months, you’ll also find picnickers from Srinagar and hordes of children playing football or trooping behind their teachers on a school picnic.
Park entry fee ₹ 20 Timings 8.30 am- 8 pm, open all days
Up ahead is a little dock for the shikaras. Take a ride around the lake or ask the boatman to drop you off at Jharokha Bagh. The JK Tourism Aquatics Sports Centre (Contact Abdul Gani Laherwal; Mob: 09906741845; Timings: 10 am-4 pm), right behind the Manasbal Restaurant a little further on, offers kayaking and boating lessons. The facilities aren’t really meant for joyrides but they’ll let you try out the kayaks for free. The walking path by the lakeside goes on further, and will eventually stretch all the way to Jharokha Bagh, but as of now, the park ends a short distance beyond the water sports centre.
Shikara rides ₹ 350 per hour
Jharokha Bagh
Around 3 km by road lie the palace gardens of Jharokha Bagh, on the northern bank of the lake. Believed to have been built by Mughal Emperor Jehangir for his queen, Noor Jehan, the small park is a popular destination with local residents and day-trippers from Srinagar. Walk inside and relax on the lawns or on the benches placed under the chinars. Right at the end is a flight of steps leading down to the lake where you’ll find shikaras waiting to take tourists to Manasbal Park.
Entry fee ₹ 20 Timings 10 am-8 pm
WHERE TO STAY
The JKTDC Guest House (Mobile: 09858494100; Tariff: ₹ 1,850-6,000) at Manasbal offers 3 rooms set in the midst of the gardens just above the lake. It has a restaurant, the bathrooms have geysers and rooms have TVs. Lake View (Mobile: 09596065152, 09797234474; Tariff: ₹ 1,400-1,600) in Jharokha Bagh, run by the affable Arshad and family, offers cosy rooms right next to the gardens. The rooms are basic, but clean and inviting. Another guest house at Jharokha Bagh is Manasbal Pearl Spot (Mobile: 099068 38739, 09622941785, 09018405454; Tariff: ₹ 800-1,800), but the rooms here are rather cramped. A few other guest houses were coming up when we visited. Check with JK Tourism in Srinagar (Tel: 0194-2452691) before visiting as they maintain a register of approved guest houses here and in Kondabal village on the southern shore of the lake.
WHERE TO EAT
Don’t expect a mind-boggling variety of cuisine at Manasbal. But a hearty Kashmiri meal can be found easily (and cheaply), with the spicy kebabs going down easy after a day of sightseeing. Your best bet for a meal is Manasbal Restaurant (Mobile: 09906597486) in Manasbal Park. Settle down under one of their garden umbrellas and watch the shikaras on the lake as you eat. For breakfast, try the paranthas, served with dollops of butter. They can also rustle up a quick Kashmiri meal with good rishta and gushtaba, or Maggi for the kids. They also do a serviceable paneer dish, but, be warned, there’s not much choice for vegetarians in Manasbal. The restaurant at the JKTDC guest house does boast of an impressive menu, but they’re usually out of everything and you’re unlikely to get anything beyond ‘chicken curry’, rotis and a veg dish (usually aloo-tamatar).
The many stalls inside Manasbal Park also serve fresh pakoras, with the usual assortment of ice creams and cold beverages. Try the fish pakoras here. The bus stand at Safapora also has a few small dhabas that serve Kashmiri food. Try the decent kebab-rishta-rice meal at the Hyat, named in homage to the Delhi hotel where the owner claims to have once worked. You can also pick up fresh fruit at the bus stand stalls. There’s not much choice for food in Jharokha Bagh. It has a couple of small restaurants that offer fried fish and wazwan, but the hygiene looks doubtful. Most guest houses will arrange a meal on request, but don’t expect anything fancy.
AROUND MANASBAL
Kheer Bhawani (12 km)
The temple of Ragnya Devi, or Mata Kheer Bhawani, at Tulla Mulla is much revered by Kashmiri Pandits, who propitiate the goddess with offerings of kheer. The temple in its present form was built around a century ago by the-then ruler of Kashmir, Maharaja Pratap Singh and renovated by his successor, Hari Singh, but has been a pilgrimage destination for longer. According to one of the many myths surrounding the temple’s origin, Goddess Ragnya resided in Lanka, but after becoming displeased with her disciple Ravana, commanded Lord Hanuman to bring her here, to the site of a sacred spring. There’s another interesting legend attached to this temple — it’s said that if the spring within the temple becomes murky or black, it portends bad times for Kashmir. The same goes for the offerings of kheer traditionally made to the goddess.
Kheer Bhawani witnesses a heavy influx of worshippers during the Mela Mata Kheer Bhawani on Jyeshta Ashtami (the eighth day of the waxing moon in the third month of the Hindu calendar), which falls between mid-May and mid-June. This festival has assumed a significance beyond the scope of worship, becoming a place of reunion for Kashmiri Pandits travelling here from Jammu, Delhi and further. It is also a symbol of Kashmiriyat, a time of unity when Muslim citizens of Tulla Mulla provide seva and puja material to the visiting Pandits. The Chief Minister of J&K is among those who offer kheer to the goddess at this time; even banks distribute juice to pilgrims. Tulla Mulla village is 1 km off the Ganderbal-Manasbal Road.
Parihaspora (15 km)
Heading west from Manasbal, cross the Jhelum by the Sumbal Bridge and turn left onto the Bandipora-Srinagar Road to Shadipora. Barely a kilometre ahead of Shadipora is Turgam. Turn right here and drive through Turgam and along narrow rural roads past Malikpora to the ruins of Parihaspora, built in the 8th century by Karkota king Lalitaditya Muktapid. This city of stone that sat alongside the confluence of the Jhelum and Sind rivers was the capital of Lalitaditya’s empire but declined in importance following his reign. Much of it was dismantled by his descendants, and Sultan Sikandar dealt it a final blow during his late-14th, early-15th century reign.
Parihaspora is not as magnificent as the Sun Temple at Martand, but it’s probably the birthplace of the cut-stone architecture seen there and at other sites across Kashmir. Take a stroll around the grounds, admiring the massive stone blocks (some weigh well over 50 tonnes), now overrun by grass. You’ll cross the remains of the chaitya (prayer hall) and the royal monastery to get to the old stupa on the northern end of the complex. Most of it is gone, but what remains does give you an idea of this city’s long-lost grandeur.
TIP You can also see artefacts from Parihaspora at the Shri Pratap Singh Museum in Srinagar
Before heading back, try the fresh fruit from the stalls outside the SSM College of Engineering just 500m from the ruins. Sprinkled with rock salt and lemon juice, ice-cold watermelon is just what you need on a hot summer’s day.
Wular Vantage Park (22 km)
A 45 minute drive on the Bandipora road takes you to the eastern shore of Wular Lake — India’s largest freshwater body. The Wular Vantage Park here is a beautifully laid out garden teeming with flowers. Relax for a bit in one of the many gazebos here, before walking to the top to take in the massive lake, which seems to stretch as far as the eye can see.
Entry fee ₹ 10 Timings 8.30 am-8 pm A great picnic spot, but carry everything along as there are no shops here
FAST FACTS
When to go Anytime between May- September, although June can get quite hot. Winter months see snowfall
Tourist Offices
J&K Tourism, Tourist Reception Centre, Srinagar, Tel 0194-2452691, 2479548,
Director Tourism (Kashmir), Srinagar; Tel: 2472449, Website: jktourism.org
JKTDC, TRC, Srinagar, Tel: 2457927/ 30; Website: jktdc.co.in
Wular-Manasbal Development Authority, Manasbal; Tel: 01954-217541, Mobile: 9419012220, STD code 01954
GETTING THERE
Location Manasbal Lake is in the Jhelum Valley towards Wular Lake, 11 km from Ganderbal in the district immediately north of Srinagar
Distance 31 km NW of Srinagar JOURNEY TIME By Road 1½ hrs from Srinagar
Route from Srinagar NH1D to Ganderbal via Pandach crossing, Ganderbal-Manasbal Road to Manasbal via Barsoo
Air Nearest airport: Sheikh-ul-Alam Airport, Srinagar (42 km/2 hrs/ Tel: 0194- 2303000/ 31, 2303635), connected to Delhi, Mumbai, Leh and Jammu by Air India, SpiceJet, Indigo and Go Air. Prepaid taxis charge ₹2,200 for a drop to Manasbal
Rail Nearest station: Jammu Tawi: (329 km/ 9 hrs). Taxi to Manasbal will cost ₹5,200, one-way
Road Manasbal is a short drive from Srinagar. Follow the Srinagar-Leh NH1D. At the Nagbal T point, turn left and continue on NH1D to Ganderbal. Turn left into Ganderbal and soon you’re crossing the Sind Bridge. The right turn at the end of the bridge is the road to Manasbal. Taxi charge from TRC Srinagar is ₹1,400. JKSRTC (0194-2455107) runs ordinary and deluxe buses (₹250) to Manasbal only during season. Private buses from Batmaloo bus stand (₹30) operate at regular intervals. Shared jeeps charge ₹40-50 per person.