The drive to Manginapudi is as delightful as the destination, especially after Vijayawada, when the landscape is just shades of green all around.
The company of greens continues right up to Manginapudi, now just a tiny hamlet, but once a historic port which during its prime served as a gateway to India, bringing in first the Dutch, then the British and, last, the French.
Roam on the black beach – there are no golden sands, just clayey soil here. It is easy to imagine ships sailing towards the port piled with priceless teak from Rangoon for decorating the grand edifices of the Qutub Shahis. Or the Dutch alighting and garnering local support for opening factories and setting up warehouses. Or Portuguese ships being seized and set on fire after they had dared to indulge in misadventure by looting Arab yachts!
Then suddenly a wake-up call from the wandering peanut seller transports you back to the present. That is the magic of Manginapudi – the past and present together on a platter.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
The beach is serene, breezy and relaxing and you will probably be tempted to spend every minute of your stay here. Splash around in the water, stretch out on the golden sands with the waves brushing your feet, and your holiday is made.
Lighthouse
The candy-striped black-and-white banded tower standing tall and imposing on the beach has been effortlessly dominating the landscape since 1858. Going up nearly 300 steps by the narrow spiral staircase can be quite strenuous, but once you have struggled through, the view from the top is just mind-boggling. Walk 360º around the tower top with the wind in your hair and the feeling of being perched high above the ground.
TIP You will need to get permission from the lighthouse officials before you can enter
Datha Rameswaram Temple
A temple of Lord Shiva once stood here, just a few yards from the surf line and swept by salty winds. After the temple fell into neglect, it was handed over to the ashram of Sri Ganapathi Sachidananda Swamiji of Mysore, which changed things for the better.
In 1992, the head Swamiji came here and deified a temple to Lord Dattatreya. He also ordered 12 wells to be dug on the temple premises and declared the place to be equivalent in stature to Rameswaram in Tamil Nadu. Since then the temple has been known as Datha Rameswaram.
Machilipatnam
To Telugus it is Machilipatnam. The British used to call it Masulipatnam or Bandar (port). This is no ordinary Indian town. Here, just by reading the names of colonies you can see the convergence of all the three foreign powers at one go. There is Ollandapalem for the Dutch, Paraaspeta for the French and English Palem. Manginapudi is an ideal base to explore Machilipatnam. Go east where the road passing by Phiringi Dhaba dives into the backwaters. This was where the famous Chepakannu Darwaza once stood, a gateway decorated with eyes of fish (machili) that gave the town its name.
WHERE TO STAY AND EAT
Manginapudi does not offer much by way of staying options. It’s best to stay at Machilipatnam and visit Manginapudi from there. It is also possible to put up at Vijayawada (approximately two hours) and make a day visit to the beach.
RK Paradise (Tel: 0872-229938, Cell: 09848121585; Tariff: ₹1,470-2,310) is the best stay option in Machilipanam. Eswar Residency (Cell: 09290186699; Tariff: ₹450- 1,600) offers air-conditioned and non-AC rooms with TV. Hotel Apsara (Cell: 09290736699; Tariff: ₹480-850) also rooms with and without air-conditioning and a restaurant. Jangala Deluxe Lodge (Tel: 08672-224731; Tariff: ₹750-1,100) is a decent option too.
For dining out, don’t expect much at Manginapudi; here you will get only basic Andhra meals besides idlis and vadas for breakfast. However, Machilipatnam has a lot to offer. RK Restaurant Andhra meals at the RK Mess (near the bus stand) are quite a crowd puller. Try their traditional natu kodi igguru (fried country chicken).
If you have a sweet tooth, do make it a point to try out the town’s famous Bandar laddu and Nalla halwa.
When to go Any time of the year, with winter being the best season. However, do avoid Maghi Purnima, sometime in December, when locals throng the beach for a holy dip. Tragically, it was on one such auspicious day when the tsunami struck Location 11 km north of the great Bay of Bengal port of Machilipatnam, in Krishna District Air Nearest airport: Vijayawada Rail Nearest rail: Machilipatnam