As you drive on the Narsapur Road from Hyderabad to Medak, you can feel the big, bustling city recede. The concrete gives way to gigantic boulders and lush forests, butterflies and birds make a grand reappearance and the fumes and pollution become a distant memory. And most likely, yours will be the only vehicle on the road.
When you reach Medak, you will realise that the journey presaged the destination. In many ways, Medak is the quintessential small town India. As you stand atop the town’s hilltop fort and look below at the settlements dating back to centuries and the newer haphazard constructions on their periphery, it looks like an overgrown village. Then, there is the Gothic spire of Medak church, towering above the rest of town, which seems like an incongruous addition from the English countryside. The mood here is significantly laid-back, which makes it a pleasant destination to unwind and spend some time away from urban clatter.
Medak District, of which the town is a part, is sandwiched between Rangareddy and Nizamabad districts. It is spread over an area of 9,700sq km, of which 10 per cent of the land is forested. Some of the major rivers in the region are Manjeera, Valdhi, Gudleruvagu and Kadaleru. In medieval times, the Kakatiyas held sway over the region. It was earlier known as Siddapuram and later, Gulshanabad (land of gardens). The present name Medak, is derived from the Telugu word methuku – cooked rice grains. The town is centrally located and a convenient base to explore the various sights in the district.
Orientation
Medak, being a small town, is quite easy to navigate. The major landmark here is the Medak Fort, located on the hill opposite to the bus stand. There are Telangana Tourism signposts en route to the fort that are quite helpful for tourists. The church is in the northern part of the town, along SH 15. Most of the restaurants are also located along this road. Auto-rickshaws are available for hire throughout the town.
Things to See & Do
Medak Fort
Methukudurgam, as the Medak Fort was earlier known, is strategically located atop a hillock at an elevation of 1,450ft. Prataparudra I of the Kakatiya dynasty built the citadel as a command outpost in the 12th century CE. Later, the Bahmanis, and then, the Qutub Shahis took control of the fortress.
There is a winding road uphill that leads to the entrance of the fort. On this road, there is a domed tomb – now painted in white and dark green – with many graveyards in its courtyard. A passage through a series of gates – prathama dwaram (first gate), simha dwaram (lion gate) and gaja dwaram (elephant gate) leads to the interior of the fort. Near the first gate, a small, makeshift temple has been built – a recent addition to the complex. Further ahead, there is a 3.7-metre-long cannon perched atop a bastion that the Qutub Shahis installed in the 17th century CE.
After you cross the elephant gate, you will come across a reservoir. The path ahead of it leads to a mosque that the Qutub Shahis built. At its base, there are a few chambers – one of which houses a police outpost. The stone mosque, which has been painted in white and green, is now not in use and mostly locked up. A staircase at the side that leads to the terrace of the mosque is the highest vantage point here. Nearby, there are large subterranean halls which were probably used as granaries, but now, more as a dustbin. There are other ruins within the fort, most in a state of complete dilapidation.
At the edge of the reservoir, a trail runs along the ramparts of the fort. As you walk on this path, you can observe how the engineers of the fort skillfully utilised the natural rock formations and built the structures of the fort around them. You can also see small and evenly spaced out punch marks in the boulders – a telltale sign that the rock was about to be carved, but was abandoned midway. On the northern edge of the fort, there is a shrine inside a small cavern, where you will find statues and votive bangles tied to strings. From here, the views are excellent – you can see an expansive lake, a domed tomb and an interesting dichotomy in the architecture of the town: the houses along the hillock, with their sloping, tiled roofs are built in an older style, while the ones further away, with their concrete roofs, exhibit modern architectural features.
Close to the entrance of the Medak Fort, there is Mubarak Mahal, a medieval structure that has been turned into a Haritha Hotel. The Department of Archaeology has arranged for guides (Cell: 989119588, 7386854153) at the fort, though at the time of research, they were not available.
Medak Cathedral
Nothing can prepare you for splendour of the Medak Cathedral. As you behold the towering spire, the stained glass windows and the intricate carvings on the façade, it is hard not to gape in sheer awe. The church, set in a sprawling compound, has a length of 200ft and a width of 100ft. The main tower is 175ft high and crowned with four spires. The cathedral’s foundation was laid in 1914 and the structure was completed in 1924. Italian masons were engaged to decorate the flooring, which was built with six different colours of mosaic tiles imported from England. In the years after the construction of the church, the three stained glass window panels depicting different stages of the life of Jesus Christ – Ascension (1927), Nativity (1947) and Crucifixion (1958) were installed. Frank O Salisbury, a renowned English artist, designed the stained glass windows. The cathedral, among the largest in Asia, can accommodate as many as 5,000 people and sees huge crowds around Christmas.
The church was built by Charles Walker Posnett, a Wesleyan Methodist who worked in the British army and was based in Secunderabad. After he shifted his regiment to Medak, there was a famine in the region and so he commissioned the construction of the cathedral to provide employment to people. Today, the church is the seat of the Bishop of the Medak diocese. According to some estimates, the diocese is the largest in Asia and the second largest in the world.
Timings Weekdays 7.00am– 6.00pm; Monday 6:00am–6.00pm Sunday Service 9.30am
Where to Stay & Eat
Telangana Tourism’s Haritha Medak Fort Resort (Cell: 09177962680; Tariff: Rs. 800–1,500), in the fort premises, is a heritage property. The rooms are comfortable and well-maintained and their restaurant serves vegetarian as well as non-vegetarian food. About 50km from Medak, opposite the Dundigal Air Force Academy on Hyderabad- Narsapur Road in Annaram is Vishal Prakruthi Resort (Tel: 08418- 258888, 258585/ 89, Cell: 07799018390; Tariff: ₹5,000–8000). The rooms are clean and have modern bathrooms. There is a vegetarian restaurant and a swimming pool here.
AROUND MEDAK
While Edupayala temple, Pocharam dam and the wildlife sanctuary are a short drive away from Medak, the rest of the sights are further away and can be clustered into three groups. To the east, there is Komtur, Nacharam, Wargal, Siddipet and Ananthasagar. To the south, around the town of Sangareddy, there is the Singur Dam, Manjira Barrage, Kalabgoor, Nandi Kandi and Kondapur Museum. Further away, to the southwest, there is Jharsagram and Gottam Gutta, close to the town of Zaheerabad.
Pocharam Wildlife Sanctuary (15km)
Wildlife sanctuary is a slightly misleading term for this deer breeding centre. The forest at Pocharam, enclosed by a wired fence, is home to five species of deer and antelopes – sambar, nilgai, chinkara, chital and four-horned antelope. Apart from deer, you can also spot wild hare, jackals and wild boars. There is a large population of animals within the small sanctuary and hence, sightings are quite common.
The forests were the favourite hunting grounds of the Nizams, who declared it as a wildlife sanctuary in the early 20th century. The enclosed deer breeding centre was established much later in 1983.
Pocharam spans an area of 9.12sq km and has a 4-km-long trail circumscribing it. Halfway through the trail, you will come across a watchtower that offers sweeping vistas of the forest and the Pocharam Lake and an unparalleled opportunity to observe wildlife and birds. You can visit the sanctuary in your own vehicle (two wheelers are not allowed though). However, you need to take permission at the office, which is opposite the sanctuary entrance. A guide will be assigned to take you around the forest.
To reach Pocharam, head north of Medak Church for about a kilometre and turn left onto SH 6. There is the dargah of Syed Saadullah Husseini, a Muslim saint, on a hillock en route, a few kilometers before the wildlife sanctuary.
Entry Vehilces ₹100; per person ₹20 Timings 10.00am–5.00pm Tel 08452- 222591 Photography ₹100
TIP The officials at the sanctuary are unusually tardy and apathetic. They may take up to a few hours to grant permission for entry and assign a guide, so try to visit earlier in the day. The guide expects a nominal tip at the end of the trip
Pocharam Lake (16km)
Between 1916 and 1922, the Nizams built a dam on the Allair river (a tributary of the Manjira) that we today know as Pocharam Reservoir. Unlike other dams, Pocharam does not have any floodgates, so all the excess water flows over spontaneously. The dam has a large avian population – Brahminy duck, bar-headed goose and open billed stork, among others – and is a popular spot for bird watching. While you might encounter other tourists on weekends, on weekdays, the lake is largely desolate apart from a few fishermen. Their makeshift dinghies and fishing equipment are strewn along the bank of the lake. There is an island in the middle of the reservoir that serves as a nesting ground for birds. The dam is also home to crocodiles.
The hunting lodge of the Nizams, built in 1918, is on a hillock overlooking the lake. The double-storeyed structure is in remarkably good shape and could be retrofitted as a heritage hotel. Many campers squat here and return with tales about the house being haunted. Nearby, there are a few ruins of structures that were built during the Colonial era.
The dam is about a kilometre ahead of the sanctuary.
Edupayala Temple (19km)
The Edupayala Durga Bhavani Temple is dedicated to Goddess Kanakadurga. The legend goes that a great king Parikshit, the grandson of Arjun (one of the Pandavas of epic, Mahabharata) performed a sarpa yagna (a ritual in which snakes are used) to get rid of a curse. While Garuda, a mythical eagle, was delivering the snakes to the yagna, the blood of the serpents dropped at seven different spots and each of these spots became a stream. These seven rivulets merged at Edupayala (edu—seven, payala—stream) to form the river Manjeera. Depending on the water levels, you can actually see the Manjira splitting into several streams which later reunite.
The temple is at the base of an exquisite rock formation surrounded by forests. Next to the temple, there is a small pen where you can see priests blessing sacrificial animals—mostly goats and hens—hat the devotees later make a meal of, sometimes right next to the temple. In fact, the precincts of the temple are a popular picnic spot and you can see large families cooking and enjoying elaborate meals here. A staircase to the side of the temple takes you uphill where there are many other shrines dedicated to serpent gods and other deities. One of the shrines is located inside a cavern between the boulders. Climb up to the top of the rock formations for views of the Manjira river and forests. There are many trails crisscrossing the forest, which make for a pleasant hike.
On the occasions of Shivaratri and Maagha amavasya – the moonless night in the month of Maagha (January–February) – there is a jatara (fair) in the temple, which thousands of devotees attend.
Komtur (8km)
The non-descript village of Komtur does not figure in any tourist brochures or itineraries – rather strange for a place that has one of the most scenic attractions in the district. On the periphery of the village, you will come across a mosque set against the backdrop of an expansive – and surprisingly pristine – lake. The Biloli mosque, thought to have been built during the late Mughal period, has a curious mix of Qutub Shahi and Hindu architecture. The stone structure is flat-roofed and has two large onion-domed minarets in front. The entrance to the mosque is through three arched gates. A ladder has been installed at the back of the mosque to access the terrace.
The Komtur cheruvu, a five-minute walk away, is set amidst a rock-strewn landscape. You might find people fishing here, though it is mostly desolate. There is a makeshift fisherfolk temple between the lake and the highway that has colourful paintings of fishes.
Nacharam (53km)
The Nachagiri Narasimha Swamy Temple in Nacharam village is located on the banks of the Haridra river. Believed to have been built about 600 years ago, the temple (and the surrounding town) was named after Nachar, a fervent devotee of the deity. The temple complex, built around a hillock, incorporates the natural rock formations in its architecture and the main shrine is inside a cave. The vimana of the temple features exquisite carvings with paintings on them. The sanctum sanctorum has statues of Narasimha Swamy and his consort Laxmi, carved out of a rock. Within the complex, there are many other shrines dedicated to Shiva, Rama, Sita, Garuda and Anjaneya.
Temple timings 6.00am–7.00pm
Nacharam has a Haritha Hotel (Cell: 09666002409; Tariff: ₹700– 800), which belongs to the Telengana Tourism deparment. The hotel has four rooms. However, food is not available here. You can eat at the nearby Village Restaurant. There are also a few small restaurants around Haritha, where breakfast, tea and coffee are available.
Wargal (64km)
Built only a few decades ago, the Vidya Saraswati Temple in Wargal is increasingly becoming a popular destination for devotees and tourists alike. Yamavaram Chandrashekhara Sharma, a businessman, formed a committee along with other devotees for the construction of a Saraswati temple. For this, they selected a historical hillock in the village of Wargal, where there was a subterranean Shambhu Deva Temple believed to have been built about 400 years ago, ancient Vaishnava temples dating back to the Kakatiya period and 30-feet-tall victory pillar adorned with sculptures of Rama, Lakshmana, Sita and serpent deities. Most of these structures are still extant, albeit in ruins.
Within the complex, there are also temples dedicated to Laxmi Ganapathi, Shanishwara and Shiva. Over the years, many structures have come up adjacent to the main shrine. There is a Vedic school with around 300 students whose accommodation has been provided for, in the premises. The temple, administered by the Kanchi Shanker Mutt, is spread over 13 acres of land, a part of which has been earmarked for a park, a library and a hospital. On a hillock opposite the temple, there is a dargah.
The festivals of Vasant Panchami (January–February) and Sharad Navratri (September–October) are celebrated at the temple. The day of Moola Nakshatram – the birth star of Goddess Saraswati – during Navratri is considered the most auspicious for worshipping the deity. On this day, thousands of devotees throng the temple, to witness the special rituals performed here. Wargal is 64km southeast of Medak and 54km northeast of Hyderabad. TSRTC buses from Jubilee Bus Station going towards Karimnagar, Mancherial, Siddipet or Vemulawada stop on request at Wargal X roads, 5km away from the temple. From there, you can take an autorickshaw to the shrine. There is a direct bus service from Secunderabad Railway Station (opposite the gurudwara), to the temple, at 8.15am, 10.00am, 12.00pm and 4.00pm. For the return journey, there are buses at 10.30pm, 12.00pm, 2.30pm and 6.00pm. The timings may vary slightly.
Timings 6.00am–12.00pm, 4.00– 7.30pm Tel 08454-255035 Cell 09247851122
W srivargalvidyasaraswathi.org
Siddipet (69km)
Siddipet, 69km east of Medak on the Hyderabad-Karimnagar highway, is an important town in the district. The major attraction here is the Komati cheruvu, a lake on the southwestern periphery of the town. The site is being developed as a tourist destination – a children’s park and sculpture garden have been built on the banks of the lake while roads and a promenade are being laid out. There are also boating facilities at the lake.
Speed Boat ₹150 (5 minutes/ 4 people), ₹300 (5 minutes/ 8 people) Pedal Boat ₹20 (for 2 people) ₹40 (for 4 people)
Siddipet is also famous for its numerous shrines – most notably, the Kotilingeshwara temple (Timings: 8.30am–12.30pm; 4.00–8.00pm) and the Venkateswara temple (Timings: 5.00am–1.30pm; 5.00–8.00pm).
Telangana Tourism has set up a Haritha Wayside Amenities next to the Komati cheruvu, though there is not much in terms of amenities here. Other than this, there aren’t many accommodation options in Siddipet.
Ananthasagar (90km)
The Saraswati Kshetram ( W saraswathikshetram.org) is a small temple set amidst hillocks, in the village of Ananthasagar. Ashtakala Narasimharama Sarma, a fervent devotee of Goddess Saraswati, built the temple after the deity appeared in his dreams and commanded him to construct a shrine. He laid the foundation of the temple in 1980 and installed the idol of the deity in 1990 in the presence of 50,000 devotees. The main festival of the temple is Brahmotsavam, held around Vasant Panchami (January– February). While there is not much of interest here for the general tourist, it is a popular destination for devotees.
Ananthasagar temple is close to the Hyderabad-Karimnagar highway, around 20km north of Siddipet and 40km south of Karimnagar. The closest RTC bus stop is at Sanigaram, which is 2km away.
Temple timings 6.00am–12.00pm, 3.00–6.30pm
Singur Dam (64km)
Built on the Manjira river – a tributary of the Godavari – in 1989, the Singur dam is one of the primary water sources of Hyderabad. The reservoir is a haven for crocodiles – according to some estimates, it harbours as many as a thousand of these reptiles, though this figure is probably exaggerated. The scenic landscape of the surroundings makes it a popular destination for day trippers from Hyderabad.
While at Singur, stay at Telengana Tourism’s Haritha Lake View Resort (Tel: 08455-203019; Tariff: ₹800–1,150) on Singur Bridge Road. It offers 10 comfortable rooms and a restaurant.
Kalabgoor (64km)
The Kashi Vishweshwara temple is an ancient Shiva temple in the village of Kalabgoor (also spelled as Kulabgoor). It was built in the 14th century by the Kakatiya dynasty. Within the temple, there are shrines dedicated to Anantha Padmanabha Swamy and Venugopala Swamy. Consquently, the temple is also known as trikutalaya (triple shrines). The architecture of the temple is remarkably similar to that of the Thousand Pillar Temple at Hanmakonda, in Warangal. Locals say that if you drop a coin in a certain part of the sanctum sanctorum, it sounds as if the coin has been plopped into water. There is also a Sangameswara Temple in the village that supposedly dates back to the Kakatiya period.
Kalagoor is 63km from Medak and 4km from Sangareddy, close to the Manjira barrage.
Manjira Dam & Wildlife Sanctuary (69km)
In 1974, the number of freshwater crocodiles in the Manjira river had fallen down to an alarming four. To revive the species, the government declared a 20sq km area between the Singur and Manjira dams as a crocodile sanctuary. The move has worked well, as the population of crocodiles in the region now stands at 300. However, sustaining these reptiles’ population is a difficult task – the eggs have to contend with many predators during their 50-daylong hatching period.
There is a gate at the entrance of the sanctuary, close to which, there is the Environment Education Centre. There is a small museum, library and auditorium at the centre as well as a crocodile breeding pond. The best time to visit the pond is around 12.30pm when the crocodiles are fed.
There are nine small islands within the lake – Bapangadda, Puttigadda, Karnamgadda and Sangamadda are the major ones. The crocodiles lay and hatch their eggs on these islands. In recent years, the sanctuary has also become an attractive destination for bird-watching as many migratory birds arrive here during the winter.
Nandi Kandi (80km)
The Ramalingeshwara temple in the village of Nandi Kandi (or just Nandi) is famous for its star-shaped temple. It was built by the Chalukya dynasty in the 11th century CE. The central hall of the temple has four pillars, each chiselled from a single piece of rock. Every surface of the temple is intricately carved and on the walls and pillars, you can see sculptures of many deities such as Narasimha, Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva, Saraswati and Laxmi. In the sanctum sanctorum of the temple, there are idols of Rameshwara Swamy and his consort. In front of the sanctum, there is a large statue of Nandi made of black stone. The temple has a star-shaped skylight which provides ventilation.
Nandi Kandi is located on NH 9, close to the town of Sadashivpet. It is 80km south of Medak and 12km southwest of Sangareddy.
Kondapur Museum (85km)
Excavations in a mound close to the village of Kondapur unearthed many remains belonging to the Satavahana period, among which are several Buddhist antiquities. The excavations were first conducted by the renowned archaeologist Henry Cousens in the early 19th century. From 1940 to 1942, the Department of Archaeology of the princely state of Hyderabad carried out surveys and further excavated the area. The unearthed antiquities were kept in a small museum that has been constructed at the site. In 1952, the Archaeological Survey of India took control of the museum and the artefacts in it were moved to its present building.
The museums consist of two galleries laid out around a central hall. The hall has bricks, beads, jewellery, pottery, coins, shells and other such items. The other galleries have prehistoric tools, fossils and a few statues, most notably the Buddhapada and an image of fourhanded Vishnu, in the standing position, sculpted on a door jamb.
Entry ₹5 (Above 15 years); Free (Below 15 years) Timings 10.00am–5:00pm Closed Fridays and government holidays Tel 08455-253625
Jharasangam (86km)
Ketaki Sangameswara Swamy is an ancient temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, in the village of Jharasangam. Legend has it that Raja Kupendra, a suryvanshi (lineage derived from the sun) ruler of the krutha yuga (one of the ages of Indian mythology) once suffered from a skin ailment that could not be cured. One day, while he was out hunting, he took a bath in a stream which miraculously cured his affliction.
That night, Shiva appeared in his dream and instructed him to install a linga and build a temple for it. The king did so and also constructed a pushkarni (temple tank) by damming the stream.
It is said that Lord Brahma himself consecrated the linga in this temple. Ketaki (the flower of the Pandanus plant, also known as kewra) flowers are used to perform prayers here, even though they are strictly forbidden in Shiva temples. The story goes that the ketaki flower had once lied to Shiva on behalf of Brahma and consequently, Shiva cursed it. However, since Brahma was the one who consecrated the linga here, the flower has become a part of the ritual.
Devotees come from all over the state as well as Karnataka and Maharashtra to perform the gundam pooja (a ritual performed near the water body) at the temple.
Zaheerabad, 5km away from Jharasangam, is the largest city in Medak District. The city was named after Zaheer Yar Jung Bahadur, a Paigah noble who used to be the jagirdar of the area. The city of Bidar is a short hop away across the Karnataka border and has a few accommodation options as well.
You will find some decent hotels to stay in Zaheerabad. Athidhi Inn (Cell: 09866710081, 09866345555; Tariff: ₹1,500–2,500) near ICICI Bank, offers 28 rooms, Internet and a decent restaurant. Hotel Mahindra Paradise (Cell: 09490664090, 09866386628, 0998955853; Tariff: ₹1,500–1,700) is a popular joint on the highway in Huggeli village. It is 5km away from the city. The hotel is equipped with 10 rooms. There is a swimming pool and the restaurant serves vegetarian and non-vegetarian north Indian as well as south Indian cuisines. Their suites are currently being renovated. Hotel Milan (Tel: 08451-320120; Tariff: ₹800–1,200) is conveniently located on Bidar Main Road and offers 12 comfortable rooms. Their restaurant serves only vegetarian meals.
Others include the Kanaka Durga Mess and Liquor Court Bar & Restaurant on Zaheerabad Main Road and Swagath Bar & Restaurant on Pastapur Cross Road. There are many dhabas around the Checkpost area where north Indian food is also served.
A visit to Zaheerabad is incomplete without a meal at Cafe Ethnic (Timings: 8.30am–9.30pm; Cell: 09959521854, 09440048659) on the main road near the bus stand. The cafe is run by the Medak-based Deccan Development Society. The cafe, founded in 2004, uses organic ingredients and is renowned for its unique spread of traditional millet-based dishes.
Gottam Gutta (125km)
If your idea of a perfect holiday involves trekking along forests, waterfall and hills and enjoying the bounty of nature away from the rush of tourists, then Gottam Gutta (also spelt as Gottamgotta) is the perfect destination for you. The backwaters of the Chandrampalli reservoir, on the Bhima river, flow through these hills, forming small waterfalls along the way. It is also an ideal getaway for campers.
Gottam Gutta, 25km southwest of Zaheerabad city, is located along the state border of Karnataka and Telangana – about 25 per cent of the hills are within the geographical boundaries of the latter. There are no public transport facilities availale to these hills.
FAST FACTS |
When to go October to March |
Tourist Office |
Central Reservations Office Department of Tourism Telengana Tourism NSF Shakar Bhawan Opp Police Control Room Basheerbagh Hyderabad Tel: 040-2980140, 66745986 Cell: 09848540371 Fax: 23298455 STD code 08455 District Medak Location West-central Telangana Distance 102km N of Hyderabad |
GETTING THERE |
Air Nearest airport: Hyderabad (80km/ 2hrs approx) is served by both domestic and international flights. Taxi costs about ₹3,000 |
Rail Nearest railhead: Hyderabad Railway Station (80km/ 2hrs) is well connected to major metros and cities. Taxis are available for hire out of town just outside the station |
Road SH 6 goes from Hyderabad to Medak via Narsapur. NH 161 is connected to Medak via Sangareddy |
Bus Frequent bus services are also available from Hyderabad’s Jubilee Bus Stand (Tel: 040-27802203) |