Mollem National Park

This Goan national park is a part of a larger wildlife sanctuary and is home to a vast range of wildlife

Dudhsagar Falls crashing down a mounstainside
Mollem National Park
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A trip to Mollem National Park brings together relaxation, adventure and stunning natural beauty to submerge yourself in. From jeep safaris to a dip in the cool Dudhsagar waterfall, this national park is a fantastic destination. What is interesting is that about 20 per cent of Goa’s geographical area (3,702sq km) is notified, and called the Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary. The core of the reserve is called Mollem.

Notified in the year 1967, the reserve was first known as the Mollem Game Sanctuary. However, following the institution of the Wildlife Protection Act of 1972 , the provision for hunting blocks at Mollem was discontinued and the sanctuary was renamed Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary. Later in 1978, an area of 107sq km was demarcated from within the reserve and christened the Mollem National Park in 1978. In 1982, Tambdi Surla and the surrounding villages of Dhargem and Talade were excluded from the park area.

ORIENTATION

The Bhagwan Mahavir Sanctuary and the Mollem National Park together cover an area of 240sq km. The vegetation cover seen here varies from moist deciduous to evergreen forests. Three-fourths of the reserve area lies to the south of NH4A in the sanctuary. A well-connected network of village roads around the periphery makes a road journey to the reserve easy. For those proceeding from within Goa rather than from the Karnataka side, we recommend the route from Ponda to Bolconem via Dharbandora, Sancordem and Satpal. This will allow you to include a visit to the Lord Mahadeva temple at Tambdi Surla, on way to the sanctuary.

Dudhsagar Falls crashing down a mounstainside
Dudhsagar Falls crashing down a mounstainside
Atul Loke

There is a 35-km-long dirt track inside the park area. Around 100sq m of this area has been earmarked as the tourist zone; most of this falls in the Mollem Park. The Bhagwan Mahavir Sanctuary has an area of 133sq km. Take the short route to Bhagwan Mahavir if you are already in Goa and then drive to Mollem town, where you have much better and cheaper stay options.

The Nature Education Centre, which doubles up as a Range Office, is close to the Mollem checkpost. The checkpost is the main entry point to the sanctuary and also the place where you get your tickets and vehicle permits. However, people travelling from Tambdi Surla can get their entry tickets at the Bolcornem checkpost and those from Dudhsagar Falls, at the Collem ticket counter. Keep in mind though that the route to Dudhsagar waterfalls closes at 3.30pm; it’s also closed for vehicular traffic during the monsoons (June–September).

Within the sanctuary area are an observation tower (just a short distance from the Mollem check-post), the Dudhsagar waterfalls (in the south-east), Sunset Point (off the highway, closer to the Karnataka side) and Devil’s Canyon, which is close to Collem village. Night excursions can be arranged on special request.

Entry 20 Timings 8.30am–6.00pm Vehicle Fee Car/ Jeep 75; Bus/ Tempo 150 Photography Still 30; Video 150

Tip The same ticket is valid for both sanctuaries (for 24hrs). If you visit them on separate days, you need to buy two separate entry tickets

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

You need to be lucky – and early – to catch a glimpse of creatures such as the bison, chital, sambar, Malayan giant squirrel and wild boar in these sanctuaries. Birds, however, are easier to spot.

Dudhsagar Falls Tour

Ensconced in the Western Ghats, Goa’s highest and largest waterfalls come down an impressive length of 306m. Train passengers get a good view of the cascade – the rail track from Londa snakes down south and passes by the falls before heading north-west in a wide curve to Collem. The packages that are offered by the Dudhsagar Resort include excursions to the waterfalls.

Common green whip snake
Common green whip snake
Saibal Das

Travellers on their own can take their taxi only up to the Dudhsagar Falls Counter, from where they are compelled to hire a taxi of the ‘Dudhsagar Waterfalls Operators Union’, at the steep rate of 400 per jeep-load of seven passengers, for the short and extremely bumpy ride to the falls. This mafia-like group does not allow any taxi, apart from their own, to approach the falls. If you have your own suitable private vehicle, you are allowed in.

Devil’s Canyon

An intriguing rock formation, the Devil’s Canyon consists of a zig-zagging, twisted mass of rock with underground passages, through which the waters of the Dudhsagar river forcefully flow during the monsoons. This sunset point gives you a commanding view of the sunset and moonrise at the same time on full moon evenings.

A mystic point, not mentioned in official brochures, is a hilltop from where you can see the Atli river. Find your way there from the Awademal watchtower in Mollem.

Hiking

There are two nature trails. One is a 2.5-km-long trail from the Tambdi Surla Temple area to a small waterfall and the other is a 5-km-long trek from near the Mollem Park gate to Kachond, where there is the 14th century Mahadeva temple.

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

The Dudh Sagar Spa Resort (Tel: 0832-2612319, Cell: 09766334448; Tariff: 3,500–6,000, tents 4,500–7,000) is conveniently located just before the Mollem checkpost on NH4A. It has a restaurant, swimming pool, spa, gym and internet services. Backwoods Camp (Cell: 09822144939; Tariff: Rs. 8,500 per person for 3D/ 2N, including meals and taxes) is located at Matkan, Tambdi Surla. The camp has four rooms and six cottages. The proprietors possess a wealth of knowledge on birding.

Dudhsagar Plantation and Farmstay (Cell: 09765364456; Tariff: 2,000–3,000 per person, with meals) in Karmane village, is set in a tropical palm garden. On offer are a a tour of their plantation, a swim in the river nearby, and delicious home-cooked Goan meals.

The Farm House India (Cell: 09552575481/ 82; Tariff: 2,500–3,000) is a wellness retreat near the Mollem checkpost. It is an ideal place for meditation, walks and a lot of relaxation.

FAST FACTS

When to go November–January is the best time for sightings of migratory birds

Go there for Birdwatching

Wildlife/ Forest Dept offices

Range Forest Officer

Wildlife, Mollem

Tel: 0832-2612211

Director (Wildlife and Eco-tourism)

4th Floor

Junta House

Panjim-403001

Tel: 2229701

STD code 0832

GETTING THERE

State Goa

Location At Mollem in Sanguem Taluka, close to the eastern border of Goa and Karnataka, on the forested slopes of the Western Ghats

Distance 58km SE of Panaji

Route from Panaji NH4A to Mollem via Ribander, Old Goa, Banastari, Boma, Mardol, Ponda, Khandepar, Tisk and Dharbandora

Air Nearest airport: Dabolim (55km/ 1.5hrs). Take the Dabolim-Quelossim-Ponda-Tisk-Mollem route to the park. If taking a taxi from here, make sure you insist on this route because it’s the shortest one. Taxi charges 3,000

Rail Nearest railhead: Collem (6km from Mollem) Taxi costs 300–400

Road NH4A from Panaji leads to Old Goa via Ribander, Banastari and Ponda. From here, drive 6km northeast to Khandepar, and then to Dharbandora via Tisk along the same highway. From Dharbandora (13km northwest of Mollem), drive towards Goa-Karnataka border on NH4A

Tip Ask for directions as there aren’t too many landmarks here