Mukutmanipur: Little Eden

Rock faces, riverbeds, parrots screeching in the woodlands, foothills with paddy fields extending into the horizon, solitary and rocky sand beds by the lake are the riches that Mukutmanipur offers. To get closer to them, camp out within sight of the lake, under a canopy of star-filled skies or huge leafy trees, and a cosy fire. Permission for camping can be obtained from the departments of tourism and forests in Kolkata.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

If you are seeking to escape chaotic city life and rejuvenate in the lap of nature, Mukutmanipur is the ideal destination.

On the Lake

The dam on the confluence of the Kangsabati and Kumari flooded the valley when it was built. Just a few hill-tops remained and these formed natural islands, their flora and fauna intact and beyond the reach of further destruction. These islands are wide enough to pitch five to eight tents. They are forested and provide enough firewood to support campfires. Firewood can also be brought from nearby villages. Everything else, including drinking water, must be brought from Mukutmanipur. There is a regular motor-propelled boat service.

Deer Park, Mukutmanipur

Nilayan Dutta

If you’re staying in one of the hotels on the shore, settle for a tour of the lake by boat, taking in the Deer Park at Bonpukuria and the Shiva temple that was originally in the valley, and is now rein stated on one of the surviving hillock islands. The journey across these waters, often a bit rough because of the wind and the currents, in itself is absolutely fantastic.

When there’s a break in the rain after the first few days of the monsoon, huge freshwater turtles gather along the shore. Winter is the time for ornithologists to visit here, for this is when migratory birds start flocking here. They are off again by the first week of February, with their fledglings. During these months, the ponds on the way to Talberia are full of birds diving for fish.

Rowboat by the serene lake of Kangsabati dam, Mukutmanipur

Nilayan Dutta

Forest Walks

Do the 2-km walk from the lake to the Deer Park at dawn. The path into the woods is flanked on both sides by flowering trees, most of them wild, a few planted by the Forest Department. In early spring, the forest turns saffron with palash, slowly merging into flaming red krishnachura with the onset of the rains.

Also drive down to Ambikanagar, the seat of a local raja. The last surviving ruins of a terracotta structure still reflect some of its lost grandeur.

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

The best hotel in Mukutmanipur is the lakeside Peerless Resort (Tel: 033-44003900, Cell: 09932787993, 09434052430; Kolkata Tariff: ₹2,900-3,300). The hotel has a restaurant, bar and Internet, and will arrange your sightseeing trip.

On the opposite bank are several smaller hotels, including Amrapali (Tel: 03423-253208; Tariff: ₹700-1,500). WBFDC’s Sonajhuri Prakriti Bhraman Kendra (Kolkata Tel: 033-2225849; Tariff:  ₹1,200-4,000) is set in the sal forests of Mukutmanipur. There is a Nature Interpretation Centre, a dining room and a children’s park here. They will arrange taxis on request.

Apart from the resorts, there are local eateries offering cheap and fresh food.

When to go From October to March Location On the edge of the Kangsabati Barrage in Bankura District Air Nearest airport: Kolkata Rail Nearest rail: Bankura