In Tamil, moon-aar literally means three rivers; Munnar lies at the confluence of the Nallthanni and Kundale streams, which join the Muthirapuzha River, that cascades out of the hills into the Periyar River and, later, the Arabian Sea.
Munnar lies at the heart of Kerala’s tea-production and is often referred to as the High Range. Tea is truly Munnar’s claim to fame; here, over 12,000 hectares of lush, manicured tea fields form an irresistible canvas. A visit to a tea factory gives one a firsthand, and aromatic, introduction to the complexities of tea-production, processing and tasting. The local Tea Museum, the first of its kind in India, offers glimpses into the history of tea production in India.
The stately eucalyptus plantations, sprawling alongside the fields of tea, fuel the many tea factories in the vicinity, swaying gently in the wind, their fragrance wafting all over Munnar. Shola trees hug the mist-shrouded hillsides, sheltering several endangered species of plants and animals.
Indeed, Munnar offers activities in picturesque surroundings, with wild animals to be spotted, golf to be played, trout fishing to enjoy. For the more adventurous, there is the challenge of climbing the 8841-ft high Mt. Anaimudi, which towers majestically over the town, offering spectacular views. This is the highest peak south of the Himalayas and served as a landmark for ships approaching the Kochi port. It is here that once, every 12 years, the Neelakurunji blooms.
The offerings of this region are endless, even if lazing around far from the maddening crowd is the need of the hour. There is no better place than Munnar to put one’s feet up, and enjoy fortifying cups of tea and idyllic surroundings, with a breath of the calming, pure air.
ORIENTATION
Munnar is ensconced in the heart of a valley by tall hills. Many of its attractions are to be found within a radius of 10-30km of the main town. All these places are considered part of the Munnar experience, and are linked to Munnar by local buses, taxis, jeeps and autos along a network of well-maintained roads. To the north of Munnar, along the Northern Outlet Road (SH17), lies the Rajamala Sanctuary, the Eravikulam National Park, the Kundale Dam and Marayoor. The same road leads further north to Udumalpet and eventually to Coimbatore. Chinnakanal and the Madupetty Dam are around 15km from Munnar via the Top Station Road (SH18), which leads to Kodaikanal. SH18 (Top Station Highway Road) also connects Munnar to Top Station via Madupatty Dam. Devikulam lies to the east, along NH49. This national highway connects Kochi on the west coast to Dhanukshkodi on the east coast via Munnar. Also known as the Aluva-Munnar Road, NH49 is the axis of Munnar; most sights within the town are either on or just off the road. There are also a few sights along SH19 (the Munnar-Kumily Highway), which runs through the length of eastern Idukki District, connecting Munnar to the Periyar Tiger Reserve at Thekkady.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
It takes at least three days to truly experience Munnar in totality, though visitors will find plenty to see and do for a whole week here. The Eravikulam National Park, the Tea Museum and the tea factory attached to it, together take one whole day. A drive to Top Station for picturesque views of the plains of Tamil Nadu is complimented by a breathtaking cruise at either the Sethuparvathipuram or Madupatty dams. Visits to the state-owned sandal plantation at Marayoor and Kollukkumallai, the highest tea garden in the country at 7,900ft above sea level, are a must as well. Munnar is also well-known for tea, spices and locally-made handicrafts, all of which can be bought at the local market.
Church of South India
Typifying Munnar’s secular culture, and representing Kerala’s inherent multiculturalism, three hillocks overlooking the town are sites for a church, a temple and a mosque, respectively. Located one kilometre outside town, the Church of South India rises tall and stately above the road. Its fortress-like exterior, shrouded by eucalyptus trees, holds within its walls a repository of Munnar’s colonial past. The adjoining cemetery is also well worth a visit. It is said that, in 1899, Eleanor Knight, the newly married bride of a plantation manager, fell in love with Munnar. During her first visit here, she told her husband, “If I die, I’d like to be buried here.” Tragically, she died a week later of cholera, and her husband honoured her wish, burying her at the spot where they had stood when she’d made her request. Her grave still stands near the church.
Location Near Munnar on NH49 Timings 10:00am-5:00pm Mass 8:00am
Eravikulam National Park
A former hunting preserve of the British planters, the Erivakulam National Park now exemplifies wildlife conservation at its best. The main draw is the Nilgiri tahr, an endangered species of wild goat which was all but extinct due to poaching in the 1950s before an NGO stepped in and ensured the mountainous habitat was declared a sanctuary. Salt-licks were put out to entice the timorous tahr back. Thanks to the total absence of poaching over the years, the ungulates can now be seen in large numbers. They are so accustomed to humans that they often have to be shooed off the road to allow vehicles to pass. The incredibly agile tahr is today the mascot of Munnar. The view from Eravikulam National Park, whose average elevation is about 7,000ft above sea level, is breathtaking in its extent and diversity, especially from the popular Director’s Leap viewpoint.
Location On SH17 (Munnar-Udumalapet/ Northern Output Road) Entry Adults ₹85; Children ₹65; Foreigners ₹360 Timings 9.00am–4.30pm Tel 04865-231587
Tea Museum and Tea Processing
Run by Tata Tea, the Munnar Tea Museum traces the evolution of the tea industry in Munnar from the 1880s. It houses an interesting array of relics and artefacts from the past as well as several historical photographs and pieces of period furniture. At the adjacent tea-processing unit, one is introduced to the various stages of tea-production and the intricacies of tea-tasting. It is an insightful and educative experience for the layman.
Entry Adults ₹80; Children ₹40 Timings 9.00am–4.00pm, Closed Mondays Tel 04868-255272/73 Photography Rs. 20
Munnar’s Falls
The Athukad Falls are located deep in a valley, approximately 8km from Munnar, just off NH49; visitors will need to take the left diversion from Pallivasal to get to the falls. At the height of the monsoons in July and August, these waterfalls become a roaring, untamed cascade. A narrow bridge, which needs to be negotiated carefully, spans the gorge.
There are two other cascades along this same route which acquire remarkable proportions during the monsoons. The Cheeyapara Falls plunge from a height of over 500ft right next to the highway, a popular bathing site for tourists eager to rid themselves of the grime and dust of the plains. Another kilometre down the road, the equally impressive Valara Falls cascade tumultuously into the thickly forested ravine below the road.
Sethuparvathipuram Dam
Also known as the Kundale Dam, this 70-ft high arch dam entices visitors with its serene ambience. The sky-blue reservoir is dotted with colourful rowboats and pedal boats, available for hire from the dam. Cattle can often be spotted grazing peacefully on the banks of the reservoir against a backdrop of lush eucalyptus plantations.
Location 4km from Madupatty on Top Station Road Boating Charges ₹100-200 Timings 10:00am–5:00pm
Lockhart Gap
The Lockhart Gap offers a bird’s-eye view of Bison Valley (so named for a former preponderance of gaur in the area) and the surrounding hills up to Thekkady. An ideal location for a picnic.
Location On SH19 towards Kumily, 7km after Devikulam
Pothanmedu
Perched on a lofty cliff at the entrance to Munnar Valley, Pothanmedu offers an extensively scenic view from a high vantage point. Vehicles crawling up the serpentine road from Kochi resemble miniature toys from this height. Nearby, a resort clings precariously to the precipitous hillside, as though defying gravity.
Location 3km before Munnar on NH49
Madupatty Dam
At a spectacular height of 160ft, the Madupatty Dam has a vast reservoir, which picturesquely extends several kilometres into the hills. Boating here is an exhilarating experience, and offers occasional sightings of elephant, gaur and sambar as an added bonus. Five-seater speedboats and 20-seater launches are available for expeditions onto the water.
Location 13km from Munnar along Top Station Road Entry Adults ₹10; Children ₹5; Foreigners ₹50 Boating Charges Small Boat ₹300 (5 people, 15 min); Big Boat ₹700 (20 people, 30 min) Timings 9:00am–5:00pm
Nyamakad Gap
For a breathtaking view encompassing the Talayar Valley on one side and Munnar Valley on the other, drive up to the Nyamakad Gap on the Munnar-Coimbatore Road, where the ubiquitous greenery soothes the eyes and nerves alike. The plantations on either side of the road are checkered with colourfully dressed tea-pickers intent on their work and the odd gaur or elephant foraging in the nearby jungle.
Location 10km from Munnar to Rajamal
Trout-Fishing
Apart from the Nilgiris, Munnar is the only hill station in South India to offer anglers the delights of trout fishing. The two prime fishing sites, Gravel Banks and Devikulam Lake, are located in pristine surroundings, untrampled by tourists, about 25km from Munnar. Local jeeps are needed to get to these spots, as the terrain is pretty rough. To reach Gravel Banks, one has to pass through the Eravikulam National Park and Tata Tea’s Nyamakad Estate; Gravel Banks is tucked away in a remote corner of Nyamakad Estate. Devikulam Lake is 13km from Munnar down the Munnar-Kumily Highway (SH19). Anglers must get permits from the High Range Angling Association in Munnar, and are expected to bring their own equipment. Live bait is taboo and only artificial flies, spinners and lures are permitted. Details of catches also have to be recorded.
Teeing off in Tea Country
Munnar is golfers’ paradise, sporting two lush nine-hole courses set amidst sylvan surroundings. These golf courses are maintained by the local planters’ clubs, the High Range and the Kundale Clubs, respectively. Visitors are welcome to play at the beautiful High Range Course, but not as yet at Kundale, where prior permission of the club secretary is required to avail of the facilities, including the equipment.
Tel 04865-230253/724 Golf Green Fee Indians ₹500; Foreigners ₹1000 Club Charges ₹300; Caddy Fees ₹120 for 9 Hole Email mail@ highrangeclubmunnar.com
SHOPPING
Munnar is best known for fresh tea of the best quality, produced locally and perfected to the highest standards over the last 125 years. There are several sundry tea outlets in Munnar, but the safest bet is the Tata Tea Sales Outlet on the ground floor of the company’s Regional Office, located just off the main road. All kinds of tea are available here, packed conveniently to suit individual tastes. Also available are aromatherapy oils like eucalyptus, lemongrass and citriodera.
Two other specialities of Munnar are its luscious strawberries and aromatic spices. Strawberries are available seasonally, both fresh and as a preserve, and marketed by select outlets in the town. Tata Tea’s Shristhi Welfare Centre, located in Nullatanini Estate, 7 minutes from Munnar by road, sells the delicious High Range strawberry preserve along with greeting cards on handmade paper. Purchases are contributions that go towards the rehabilitation of physically and mentally challenged children of the plantation workers.
Spices are freely available in most shops, some of which offer a discount for large purchases. The Munnar Supply Association (9/17 MSA Building, opp. WWII Memorial, Aluva-Munnar Road or NH49), a department store founded in 1900, continues to be run by local planters in the original, red-brick building, a Colonial legacy. One of the few structures to survive the floods of 1924, the store has scrupulously preserved its leather-bound, handwritten ledgers dating back to the early 1900s, along with a couple of antique soda-making machines.
WHERE TO STAY
Munnar has good hotels for all budgets. Since tourists stream into Munnar throughout the year, it’s advisable to reserve accommodation well in advance, especially on weekends and holidays.
In Munnar
Perched high above the Kochi Road, 6km from Munnar, Windermere Resort (Tel: 04865-230512, 230978; Tariff: ₹8,000–18,000) offers charming cottages, some planters’ villas as well as complete privacy, and is among the best hotels in Munnar. Located just a kilometre from town, KTDC’s Tea County (Tel: 04865-230969, 230460; Tariff: ₹7,000–12,500) offers a restaurant, beer parlour, health club and Ayurveda and is one of the top-rung resorts in Munnar.
Picturesquely located on a sheer hillside 2km from Munnar, Abad Copper Castle (Tel: 231201-02; Tariff: ₹4,500–5,500) is set away from the bustle of the town, providing a serene ambience for relaxation. A multi-cuisine restaurant offers magnificent views. The hotel also houses an Ayurvedic rejuvenation centre. Blackberry Hills Retreat & Spa (Tel: 23297879; Tariff: ₹6,800–10,000) has 16 cottages spread across a slope, on Bison Valley Road. Situated beside the Muthirapuzha River in an unobtrusive corner of the town, West Wood Riverside (Tel: 230884-86; Tariff: ₹3,750–5,600) is a fairly new hotel offering well-furnished accommodation and a multi-cuisine restaurant.
Edassery Eastend (Tel: 230451; Tariff: ₹3,250–8,000) has 112 rooms and a multi-cuisine restaurant. Isaac’s Residency (Tel: 230501-04; Tariff: ₹4,000–8,000) overlooks the town, just off the road to Top Station. Facilities include a restaurant, beer parlour, coffee shop and Internet.
Flanked by the Muthirapuzha River, the planters’ High Range Club (Tel: 230253/ 724; Tariff: ₹2,700–4,300) with its colonial ambience and old-world charm is ensconced in sylvan surroundings. It boasts a 9-hole golf course, tennis courts, an indoor squash court, a gymnasium, a well-stocked library, an impressive collection of shikar trophies and other relics from its hoary past.
The Woodbriar Group’s Tallayar Valley Bungalow (Cell: 09442202001/ 02; Tariff: ₹7,513–14,234, with meals) nestles within the huge Tallayar Tea Plantation on the outskirts of Munnar, in the shadow of the ‘dumb’ mountain, Oomamalai, to which they take their guests for trekking. It provides efficient serves and scores on the food.
In Chinnakkanal
Many resorts and holiday homes are located by the Chinnakkanal Lake, a favoured backdrop for shooting Malayalam film songs. Club Mahindra Lake View Resort (Tel: 04868-257777, Cell: 099469 44421/ 35; Tariff: ₹13,500) is beautifully located, with a restful ambience well off the beaten track. Fort Munnar (Tel: 249311-13; Cell: 09446578881; Tariff: ₹4,500–8,500) is classy with a restaurant, spa, disco and a gym; and The Sienna Village (Tel: 249261, 249461; Tariff: ₹5,000– 8,000) is a sprawling resort spread over a hillside.
In Marayoor
Chandana Royal Resort (Tel: 04865-252222, 252322; Tariff: ₹3,000–5,000) in Marayoor is a spacious hotel with a restaurant and Ayurveda. Hotel Anaimudi (Tel: 252254, Cell: 09446291165: Tariff: ₹1,500–5,000) in rural Marayoor offers a restaurant, swimming pool and a health club.
WHERE TO EAT
Munnar is dotted with a host of small eateries. Although these do look rather unimpressive, they dish out wholesome, cheap fare: sizzling vadas, bondas and bhajis, washed down with a cup of strong, aromatic tea. If you would like to dine al fresco, the thattukadas (fast food stalls) on the main road serve piping hot chappatis, puris and dosas.
Rapsy Restaurant and Hotel Hazrath, two popular eateries in the middle of town, serve excellent chicken and mutton biryanis. For purists seeking authentic Keralite food, the SN Lodge is perhaps the best bet. Their nonvegetarian thali includes many dishes, including the pungent mango pickle, served here as an appetizer.
Sarvana Bhavan, known all over the country for its palatable and satisfying vegetarian fare, is located on MG Road at the heart of the bustling town. It offers the entire gamut of south Indian fare and the tiffin in particular is quite popular. SN Annexe is also a good option for the vegetarians. Silverspoon has a good buffet spread. Birds’ Café offers a great choice of Indian, Chinese, Continental and Kerala cuisine.
The High Range Club, with its rather colonial aura, offers typical English food. However, a minimum notice of four hours is required to eat here.
AROUND MUNNAR
Top Station (34km)
An isolated outpost, Top Station perches precariously on a precipitous ridge in Tamil Nadu, 3km from the state border. It was established in the 1880s, when British pioneers accessed these hills from the plains of Tamil Nadu, working their way up the 7,000-ft high range of mountains from Bodinayakannur in the foothills.
They later carted equipment and goods up the 15-km bridle path, while women and children travelled in sedan-chairs and on horseback. Known as the Pioneers Path, here pack-ponies and mules still plod up and down the steep and tortuous track, bearing merchandise as they did 125 years ago.
Another interesting site here is the ruin of the old ropeway station that linked the foothills to the tea estates. The aerial ropeway transported tea chests out, and provisions in, cutting costs sharply at the time. Top Station also offers a stupendous view of the surrounding mountains, ranging from the neighbouring Palani Hills to the plains of Tamil Nadu, amply rewarding those who have dared the painful climb. Top Station is located a few kilometres ahead of Kundale Dam on Top Station Road.
Kollukkumallai Tea Estate (38km)
Located in precipitous terrain, Kollukkumallai is the highest tea garden in the country, towering over surrounding areas from a height of 7900ft above sea level.
Just past the border, in Tamil Nadu, this tea plantation produces some of the most flavoursome tea in South India. Additionally, it offers some truly awesome views of the plains of Tamil Nadu. The estate, a virtual eyrie soaring amidst sky-needling peaks, is accessible only by jeep. Visitors can spend a full day here exploring the rugged and scenic terrain.
For the adventurous, a zigzag path from the estate leads down the sheer mountainside to the plains below. In the early 1900s, tea chests and provisions were laboriously transported along this route. A visit to the estate includes a drive around the tea fields and a tour of its factory.
Kestrel Adventures conducts several different kinds of tours around Kollukkumallai, including their ‘Make Your Own Cup of Tea’ Tour, which allows visitors to pick their own tea leaves from the estate. They also run a guesthouse in a renovated estate residence.
Location 38km from Munnar, along the Powerhouse Road past Chinnakkanal and Suryanelli Tea Estates ‘Make Your Own Cup of Tea’ Tour Charges ₹5,800 for two people, including transport to and from Munnar, lunch and a guide Guesthouse Tariff ₹9,500 per night, with all meals included Tel 09486953767
Marayoor (40km)
Marayoor, a small agricultural township, is home to the largest natural sandal plantation in Kerala. Managed by the Kerala Forest Department, the plantation flanks the Rajamala-Udumalpet Road (SH17), easily accessible to tourists, herds of gaur and poachers alike. The gaur that frequent the plantation are known to hold up traffic as they leisurely saunter across the main road.
Chinnar WLS (60km)
The Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary is a haven straddling the Kerala-Tamil Nadu border, 2 hours from Munnar by road. The Rajamala-Udumalpet Road (SH17) snakes right through it, enabling travellers to spot elephants, wild pigs, spotted deer, sambar and gaur. A few patient wildlife watchers are rewarded with sightings of the legendary, if elusive, white bison of Manjampatti, tigers as well as panthers.
The Forest Department organises treks into the scrub jungles as well as safaris. It is possible to stay at the tribal hut (Tariff: ₹2,500) at Vasyapara Rock, which can be Treetop machans near the meeting point of two rivers at Kuttar and a dormitory at the checkpost on the Tamil Nadu side, are also options for accommodation. Contact the Wildlife Warden at Eravikulam National Park (Tel: 04865-231587) for reservations. The Wild Kerala Tour Company in Kochi offers two- and three-day long treks for couples here (Charges: ₹1,900– ₹13,000 per couple; Tel 04843299520, Cell: 09846162157; W wildkeralatours.com).
Location 60km from Munnar, 20km from Marayoor Watchtower Entry Adults ₹15; Children ₹5 Timings 7.00am–5.00pm W chinnar.org
Mauve Mountains
An auspicious time to be in Munnar is when the neelakurunji blooms. Once every 12 years does this shrub bloom, carpeting the hillsides with its mauve blossoms. Tourists flock to Munnar in droves to view this natural spectacle, believed to bring prosperity in its wake. The next flowering is due in 2018.
FAST FACTS |
When to go Post-monsoon, from September to May. It is advisable to carry light woollens as it can get chilly in the hills |
Tourist Offices |
District Tourism PromotionCouncil |
Wildlife Warden District Idukki Location Munnar is located at a height of 5249ft in the Western Ghats, at the confluence of Mudrapuzha, Nallathani and Kundale streams. Just north of Munnar is Mt Anaimudi, the highest peak in south India at 8841ft. Kodaikanal is 94km to the east Distance 135 km NE of Kochi Route from Kochi NH49 to Munnar via Thripunithura, Vadayambadi, Muvattupuzha, Kothamangalam, Neriyamangalam, Adimali and Pallivasal |
GETTING THERE |
Air Nearest Airport: Cochin International Airport, Nedumbassery (121 km/ 4hrs). Prepaid taxis (Tel: 0484-2610115 extn: 2107) to Munnar will cost between ₹2,800 and ₹3,084 |
Rail Nearest Railhead: Ernakulam Junction (127 km/ 4hrs) |
Road NH49 links Munnar with Kochi (128km) to the west and Madurai (152km) to the east, and offers a relaxing drive through picturesquely forested Ghats. Munnar is also connected to Coimbatore in Tamil Nadu via Pollachi and Udumalaipettai. The 60-km stretch of NH49 to Munnar is quite tortuous and it is advisable to carry medication for motion sickness |
Bus Munnar’s Bus Stand (Tel: 04865-230201), located at the edge of the town, is served by KSRTC and private buses from both Kerala and Tamil Nadu. The hill station is well connected to Thiruvananthapuram, Kottayam, Alappuzha, Kochi, Thrissur, Kozhikode and more |