Murud and Janjira: Sunset Boulevard

If you visit Murud as a tourist you might come back believing that life and economy in Murud organise themselves around the daily sunset. And you would not be very much off the mark. Murud Beach waits all day for the sun to turn red over the sea, with the impossibly located Padmadurg Fort, seemingly floating in the water, in the foreground. A long drawn daily ritual begins about a couple of hours before the sunset. Bhelpuri and panipuri vendors occupy selected spots and get busy, slicing boiled potatoes and mashing chickpeas. Coconut-water sellers pile up the fruit, readying their long, curved knives to chop off the tops. Cold drink vendors arrange ice-slabs and bottles of coloured syrups, and are quick to dole out a kala khatta or a nimbu pani at the slightest request. Horses, paired and dragging their six-seater carriages, do their warm-up runs; there are some bullock-carts too, all decked up and eager to go. This makes the supply side of the sunset economy.

Fisherfolk witnessing a brilliant sunset in Murud

Punit Paranjpe

From among the representatives of the demand side of the same sunset economy, the elderly are the first to arrive, taking up prime seats on the benches lining the road next to the beach. The younger lot are happier to be in the nearby restaurants, under the shade of palm trees. As it gets cooler and the sun ever so slowly departs, the crowd gets thicker. Soon the shallow sea is full of playful people splashing water at each other, riding the waves, laughter ringing out all around.

The tourists among this crowd can’t keep their eyes off the Padmadurg Fort in the distance and compare it with the Janjira Fort they would have visited earlier. The fascinating Janjira is the famous citadel occupying an island close to the Murud coast. Equally fascinating is the story of the Siddis, who ruled the Murud region for more than three centuries, and who built this extraordinary fort. The Siddis were trader-warriors from Abyssinia who settled in Murud-Janjira and became part of the population of this region. Some of them ruled the region for about 400 years and became famous along with their fort. Today, apart from the beach, the Janjira Fort and the mystique enclosed within its moss-covered robust walls are what draw tourists to these beautiful shores.

ORIENTATION

Murud Taluka is part of Raigad District of Maharashtra, spreading along the coast from Revdanda Creek to Aagardand Creek. The entire coast is hilly and the coastal highway runs close to the Arabian Sea, through these hills. Murud town is small and is located to the south of the taluka. Janjira, the prime attraction here, is the famous fort on an island 4 km south of Murud. The town and the fort form a single unit in popular imagination and are referred to as Murud-Janjira.

The Murud Beach faces west and fans out from north to south. The Padmadurg Fort stands on a rocky outcrop about a mile across the beach into the Arabian Sea. Most hotels and restaurants are located on Darbar Road (also called Dr Rajendra Prasad Road), running along Murud Beach. Datta Mandir Road is the main road going east into the town from Darbar Road. The main modes of transport in Murud town are autos and shared tempos. For taxis, check with your hotel.

Come evening and horse-buggy rides are on offer on Murud Beach

Punit Paranjpe

BEACH WATCH

Most of Murud Beach is safe for swimming, provided that you don’t venture far into the sea. At high tide the water comes inland; it’s deep enough even right near the coast. At low tide people tend to go far out to reach deep waters, and that increases the danger. Be careful in the southern part of the beach – it has a zone which is dangerous because of unexpected dips. You won’t find many people in swimsuits or shops selling beachwear.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

A two or three-day holiday is ideal to see Murud and its surrounding attractions. While Janjira Fort is the main reason for visiting Murud, the beautiful beach is where people spend most of their mornings and evenings. The two island forts – Janjira and Padmadurg – can be seen during the daylight hours. At sunset the best place to be at is the beach or up at Idgah, the highest point in Murud.

Murud Beach

The Murud Beach is a sheltered stretch of sand surrounded on three sides by hills. Rocky outcrops flank it to the south and north; to the east lie Murud town and the hills beyond. Early mornings are great for a private audience with the ocean. Evenings are more vivacious and playful; crowds converge on the beach to enjoy the breeze, the daily spectacle of the sunset and the sense of belonging to a community. Murud does not offer much if you are a water sports enthusiast, but you can enjoy rides on sailboats (₹1,000–1,200/ 1 hour approx) that can be hired from the fisherfolk at the Rajpuri Jetty.

Padmadurg Fort

The Siddis of Janjira posed a serious challenge to the might of the Marathas, and as a counter strategy, Shivaji’s son Sambaji commissioned a fortress, late in the 17th century, on a rock called Kasa, a mile into the sea. The now desolate fort was once guarded by high walls and six bastions, and saw fierce battles between the Siddis and the Marathas. A number of cannons can still be seen within the crumbling walls of the fort, reminders of the fierce rivalry between the various maritime powers of the region. Private boats can be hired to visit the fort (₹500 or more, during the daylight hours) with permission from the Superintendent of Customs (the office is opposite Golden Swan Resort).

Datta Mandir and Idgah

Datta Mandir is located atop a hill to the north of Murud, and is approached by 200-odd steps or by a motorable road. The rarely used Idgah mosque is still higher on the same hill. Both these shrines offer panoramic views of Murud Town hiding beneath a green canopy of coconut and arecanut palms. A line of hills rises in the east and there is a lovely blue spread of sea in the west.

Garambi

Eight kilometres to the east of Murud is the scenic spot of Garambi, famous for its perennial spring that trickles through laterite rocks. There is a dam here that is over a hundred years old, built as part of Victoria Water Works, the water supply system for Murud. Garambi is especially beautiful after the monsoon from October to December.

An aesthetically laid out property, Golden Swan Beach Resort

Courtesy Golden Swan Beach Resort

Khokri Tombs

There are three tombs at Khokri, a small village 6 km southeast of Murud on the road to Aagardanda Jetty. The tombs, now in a state of ruin and neglect, are nevertheless beautiful specimens of the Indo-Saracenic style of architecture, built in the 18th century by the Siddi dynasty of Janjira.

SHOPPING

Murud is famous for its coconut chikki and barfi. You can buy it from any sweet shop near the ST Bus Stand or in the market near Siddi Bagh. Jai Hanuman Hotel, near the bus stand, is also known for its chikki and barfi (Rs. 100–300 per kilo). Weekend visitors from Mumbai also buy fish from here – surmai, pomfret and prawns.

WHERE TO STAY

Most hotels in Murud are mid-range and budget, and are conveniently concentrated on the road along the beach. Weekends are heavily booked throughout the year, except during the rains, and it’s best to book in advance if you plan to come here during this time.

Golden Swan Beach Resort (Tel: 02144-276580; Tariff: ₹5,800–19,800, with meals) has two properties right on Murud Beach. The well-laid-out resort has direct access to the beach and a great view of the Padmadurg Fort. The tarrifs are higher during Christmas and New Year vacations.

Sandpiper Resorts (Mumbai Tel: 022-26420883, Cell: 09820179181; Tariff: ₹4,000–5,500) is located on Idgah Road, on a hillock facing Murud Beach. It has excellent views of the sea, which is a short distance away.

There are many hotels on the Darbar Road along the beach. Hotel Elegant (Cell: 09730412928; Tariff: ₹3,500) near Police Station offers good rooms and a fine dining restaurant. Shoreline Resort (Tel: 274640–41, 274591; Tariff: ₹2,000–5,000) is another beach side option. Sea Shell Resort (Tel: 274306; Tariff: ₹2,500– 5,500) is also located nearby.

WHERE TO EAT

Konkani seafood has to be the food of choice in Murud, though it’s often spicy. The restaurants in Golden Swan Beach Resort and Sandpiper Resorts are good places for Konkani food. They also serve Indian, tandoori and Chinese cuisine. Patil Khanaval, Hotel Vinayak and Hotel Anand Vatika, all near the beach, have good seafood (jhinga curry and masala fish being two options) and also local vegetarian curries. The stalls and eateries on the beach also offer mouthwatering batata vada, pakodas, bhel and panipuri, and refreshing coconut water to wash them down with.

AROUND MURUD

Nandgaon (8 km)

Nandgaon is a small town on Murud- Alibaug Road and it has a Siddhi Vinayak Temple that’s over three centuries old. The temple attracts all the visitors who come to Nandgaon and the beach lies mostly empty. The main street of Nandgaon, flanked by beautiful two-storeyed houses, leads to betelnut plantations next to the beach. The 2-km-long beach is vibrant with people playing cricket and splashing in the sea. Even so, this blackish beach, protected by hillocks on its two ends, offers a serene atmosphere.

For stay, Sakharkar’s Agro Farm (Tel: 02144-691602, Cell: 098694- 11736) offers rooms and a dorm but is currently under rennovation. Mahua Bagh (Cell: 08585983456, 099110- 87646; Tariff: ₹6,500, with meals) is a farm-stay located in a mango orchard. A peaceful retreat away from the hustle-bustle of the cities. It is also pet-friendly. Gulzar Homestay (Cell: 08097390997, 09824335265; Tariff: ₹3,000–4,000), located between the Arabian Sea and the Salav-Murud Highway is another good option. The caretaker cooks for you or you could use the kitchen to cook for yourself.

RK Restaurant (try the fish curry or chicken masala here) and McIndia (serves sandwiches and vada pav) are two eating options here. Autos (₹150–200) and buses (Rs. 15) are available from Murud.

The Invincible Janjira Fort

The journey to the Janjira Fort, across the Rajpuri Creek in a small sail boat, reminds you of the old times when this coast was a busy turf where the sport of sea trade and piracy was played in dead earnest.

The Invincible Janjira Fort

Courtesy MTDC

The name Janjira is a corrupted form of zizera, which in Arabic means an island. A wooden fort was initially built in the 15th century by the Koli fishermen of Rajpuri village on a rock in the sea. It was taken over by the Siddis who are believed to be descendants of East African slaves. The Siddis were first employed in the army of Ahmednagar Sultans and later ran a fiefdom from Janjira. They built a stone citadel, work on which started in 1569 and to which they added over the next 150 years. The fort was spread over 22 acres, and there were 19 towers mounted with cannons and many turrets. Three particularly huge cannons – Kala Bangdi, Chavri and Landa Kasam – can still be seen among the ruins. The fort had two sweet water tanks and earned a reputation for being impregnable – arguably as much an outcome of the diplomatic games the Siddis played with the Marathas, Mughals, Portuguese and the English, as the fort’s defences.

Today, a deserted air hangs over the watchtowers. But there was a time, as recent as four decades ago, when the school room resounded with laughter; when the granary was heaped with stores to outlast the lashing rains; and Begum Zubeida looked down from her palace and watched as the glass-surfaced Chirekani Talav rippled with the demands of 550 families that lived within the fort premises.

The last family to have occupied the fort was an uncle-niece duo. The niece sought out the mainland only in 1984, after the death of her uncle.

The fort has deteriorated fast over these past few decades. It is now forlorn, though the ruins are impressive and worth a visit. Do not mistake the sensational tales the guides tell for truth.

Location Near Rajpuri Jetty, 4 km from Murud. From Murud to the jetty, autos charge ₹50–70 Entry Free Timings 9.00am–5.00pm Guide fee ₹250 or more, depending on the number of people in a group. Boat ride to fort ₹30 (return)