The bus ride from Bengaluru to Nagarhole National Park was anything but comfortable. The driver was hell-bent on pushing all other vehicles off the road. As a result, I got no time to prepare myself for the wildlife experience that lay ahead. However, it is quite remarkable how forests effortlessly cast a magic spell on you, for as soon as we crossed Hunsur, the last town closest to the park, a certain calmness enveloped me.
A mongoose scampered across the road into the fields nearby. The trees were increasing in height, and number. The air was distinctly cooler and I saw circular patches of what seemed like chopped grass flattened on the road; it was dry elephant dung.
As we reached the Nagarhole National Park, we stopped at the forest checkpost, where the driver and the forest guard exchanged greetings. The driver cautiously – although caution isn’t in his nature – asked if elephants had been sighted on the main road that day. His tension eased visibly when he received an answer in the negative.
The forest department maintains ‘view-lines’, 10-m-long areas on both sides of the roads, where shrubbery and trees have been cleared so that tourists can enjoy an unbridled view of the wildlife. These spots, usually created by burning down the plants, also attract animals – fresh grass sprouts in these areas, functioning as magnets for fauna. It helps that the terrain in Nagarhole is mostly flat; visibility is high, especially in areas where the forest floor is primarily grassy.
I spotted a few herds of chital and troops of langurs as soon as we started the drive. As we drove along the winding forest roads, our group encountered a large herd of gaur calmly grazing and browsing in an opening near a ‘view line’. As we turned around a particularly sharp curve, our driver brought the jeep to a halt. We heard a faint sawing noise – a mixture of a rasp and a cough, the distinct call of the leopard. Immediately, we heard the alarm calls of langurs. Holding our collective breaths and our cameras, we waited. Soon enough, a leopard and two cubs emerged onto the road. The leopard saw us, and sauntered indignantly across the road into the jungle. The cubs lingered curiously. But they too scampered across, anxious to stay close to their mother. By now, it was 5.30 in the evening, and time to head back.
On the way back, we saw a herd of elephants lazing by a water pool. As the sky was growing darker, our driver was getting restless – elephants have poor eyesight, and they are known to charge at vehicles. These elephants, however, were uninterested in us.
Back in the camp, after a hot bath, I enjoyed a simple, sumptuous meal. I also saw a few wildlife videos at the camp’s Wildlife Interpretation Centre. The documentary being screened was about tigers and every time one would appear on screen, I could sense the awe with which the audience watched this beautiful animal. Who knew, maybe I would get a chance to see the magnificent cat. The next morning, we left the camp at daybreak, with hope written large on our faces. It was a beautiful misty morning, and condensation rose from the road surface like steam. We saw a herd of sambar, browsing cautiously by the side of the road. All of a sudden, they would look around frantically, and then return to their meal.
Nearby, we heard the screech of a crested-serpent eagle. Looking closer, I saw that it held a small snake in its claws – it was breakfast-time in Nagarhole! We slowed down as we approached a waterhole: this spot was supposed to be a favourite with tigers. While waiting, I spoke to our driver Bomma, and asked him whether he had seen any tigers this month. After thinking for not less than five minutes, he told me that he had seen them everyday, except for the previous Saturday and Sunday! Bomma became impatient after waiting for sometime and suggested that we head elsewhere, and I agreed. I was visiting in October and there was plenty of water everywhere. The chances of seeing a tiger at a waterhole are higher in summer, when water elsewhere dries up. We did, however, see a stripe-necked mongoose as we left the waterhole.
The sun’s rays became stronger, and the birds more active. Drongos, woodpeckers, tree pies and orioles were flying past in an amazing riot of colour. Suddenly, the forest became silent, and we heard the cries of a sambar. After that alarm call, other animals also started theirs – there was the whoop whoop of langurs and the high-pitched call of chitals, amongst others. We waited with bated breath and suddenly saw the huge head of a tiger peeping out of thick lantana bushes. People have often commented on how larger than life the tiger actually looks. It is a big cat, but one realises how big it is only after sighting one. It gazed at us for a while, and then emitted a low snarl as it crossed the road and walked away.
About Nagarhole National Park
One of the oldest national parks in India, Nagarhole (literally ‘serpent stream) was established in 1955. It was once the exclusive hunting preserve of the Mysore royal family. Shortly after Independence, Nagarhole was declared a national park, after which it was managed by the Indian Forest Department, which also constructed rest houses and other accommodation facilities within the park. The park limits were increased to its present-day area of 643sq km in 1974. It was renamed after former prime minister Rajiv Gandhi in 1992.
The park is part of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve. It is close to both the Bandipur Tiger Reserve and the Mudumalai Wildlife Sanctuary. Nagarhole forms the catchment area for three rivers: Nagarhole, Lakshmana Teertha and Kabini. The altitude varies between 600 and 900m; the highest elevation here is Masal Betta Peak (959m). The Kabini river, the largest of its waterways, is to the south of the national park.
Most tourists enter Nagarhole from Hunsur, which is to the north of the park. The forest department has well-maintained dormitories and cottages in Murkal (close to the the centre of the park), Sunkadkatte (to the southeast) and Nagarhole (to the southwest). Private accommo-dation is available near Hunsur and Kabini. The forest department office at Hunsur and at the park entrance facilitate the hiring of guides and jeeps and offer mini-bus safaris and elephant rides (subject to availability). Safaris begin from the Range Office inside the park, 45km from Hunsur via Veeranahosahalli. Even though the forest roads are well-maintained, some areas require a vehicle equipped with a four-wheel drive.
◆ Timings 6.00am–8.00am; 3.00pm–5.00pm Mini-bus safari Indians ₹ 300; Foreigners ₹ 1,100 Photography free Videography ₹ 200
Things to See & Do
Mini-bus Safari
The forest department runs mini-bus safaris (45 minutes) in the park in the mornings and evenings. The department doesn’t offer jeep safaris, but allows private vehicles, provided permission is granted by the forest department at Hunsur. It is mandatory to hire a forest department guide on these journeys. Safaris start from the Range Office at the entry point, 25km inside the park from the Veeranahosahalli checkpost, close to the Jungle Inn Resort. Visitors can hire gypsies (around ₹ 3,000, depending on the distance covered, plus ₹ 200 entry fee) at Nagarhole for a safari. It’s the best option to see animals, but do remember to wear dull clothing and avoid shouting if you wish to see wildlife without chasing them away.
Where to Stay & Eat
As Nagarhole is a popular tourist destination, there are plenty of hotels available. Visitors can opt for simple properties inside the forest, or in homestays close to the jungle that offer an intimate experience of the forest.
Forest Rest Houses
The Karnataka Forest Department has four cottages and three dormitories inside Nagarhole. The tariff varies from ₹ 900 per person per night in a 12-bedded dorm to ₹ 1,000 for a cottage. Cottages are offered on a twin-sharing basis. The tariffs are not inclusive of food. For reservations, contact the Conservator of Forests and Director, Nagarhole Tiger Reserve (Tel: 08222-252041), Wildlife Division, Hunsur or Field Director, Project Tiger, Aranya Bhaan, Mysore (Tel: 0821-2480901).
Private Hotels
Jungle Inn (Cell: 09448208687; Tariff: ₹ 2,000–3,600 per person, with meals) is located in Veerana-hosahalli, at the northern end of the park. It has six Swiss tents, 10 standard and regular rooms and three dorms (two six-bedded, one eight-bedded). A dorm bed is priced at ₹ 2,000 per night, regular rooms at ₹ 2,600, standard rooms at ₹ 3,500 and tents at ₹ 3,000 per person per night. The tariff for all three includes stay, all meals and taxes. All have modern toilet facilities.
Homestays
Spice Glade (Tel: 08274-244242; Tariff: ₹ 1,800 per person, with two meals) is a homestay in Bajekolly Estate. Activities include estate walks. Kings Sanctuary (Cell: 09845005659; Tariff: ₹ 12,540–14,900, with meals) near the forest gate is a luxurious option with a restaurant, swimming pool and health club.
Another homestay is located about 6km from Kutta (7km from Nagarhole); on the road towards Srimangala, turn left at Manchally. About 2km from there is the Chilligiri Estate (Tel: 08274-244265, Cell: 09448582496; Tariff: ₹ 1,200 per person), named after a pepper plantation and the Brahmagiri range in the backdrop.
Another homestay in the region is Holiday Stay Home (Cell: 09945286608; Tariff: ₹ 1,300 per person, with meals).
Getting There
Air Nearest airport: Bengaluru (235km/ 5hrs), connected by daily flights to all Indian metros. Taxis charge around ₹ 10–14 per km for a drop. Most resorts will arrange pick-ups at a price. There are also buses that run from Bengaluru to Hunsur (₹ 200–250)
Rail Nearest railhead: Mysore (95km/ 2hrs). Taxi will cost you about ₹ 10–14 per km. Or ask your resort for a pick-up. Buses are also available for Nagarhole NP (₹ 200–250 per head)
Road Take the Mysore highway bypass via Ranganathittu onto SH88 to Hunsur. Near Hunsur bus stand, take a left turn towards Heggadadevankote. After a short drive, you will reach Nellorepala Junction. Take the right turn towards the Veeranahosahalli Gate of Nagarhole National Park. From here, head for the Murkal Gate. About 20km further is the Nagarhole Reserve Forest Office. The safaris begin from here
Fast Facts
When to go The best period to visit Nagarhole is between October–April; it is usually closed in the summer months. Carry warm clothing in winters
Go there for Elephants, tigers, leopards, dhole, gaur, sambar
Wildlife/ Forest Dept Office
Conservator of Forests and Director
Nagarhole Tiger Reserve
Hunsur, Karnataka
Tel: 08222-252041
Cell: 09845111721
STD codes Hunsur 08222,
Nagarhole 08228, Kutta 08274
State Karnataka
Location Spread over Mysuru and Kodagu districts, Nagarhole is bound by the Kabini river to the south, the Wayanad Sanctuary to the southwest and the Bandipur Tiger Reserve to the southeast.
Distance 235km SW of Bengaluru, 95km SW of Mysore.
Route from Bengaluru SH17 to Srirangapatna via Maddur; bypass to Coorg via Ranganathittu; SH88 to Hunsur; state roads to Nagarhole via Veeranahosahalli and Murkal.