Type Dance Festival Time February/ March Location Chidambaram, Tamil Nadu
He is well-versed in the Secret Knowledge: he holds a drum in his hand; The moon shines over his head; and he is the Lord who removes difficulties of those who worship him. In the Little Hall at Tillai he dances with fire and makes noise with his tinkling anklets.
– Paul Younger
What if the God himself dances in joy! And then what if one gets to see that very place and dance in those precincts? Natyanjali, which takes place in Chidambaram is one of the most coveted dance festivals especially for Indian Classical dancers due to its direct association with the Lord of Dance, the Nataraja himself! Natyanjali nearly translates to offering through dance. Natyanjali is an annual dance festival celebrated against the backdrop of the magnificent Chidambaram temple, which is a source of inspiration and elation to artists and viewers alike.
The word Chidambaram has two connotations: firstly, where chit means consciousness and ambaram means sky. Together, it means that mankind’s ultimate endeavour is to arrive at the sky of consciousness, which is the supreme bliss epito- mized by Nataraja; secondly, where chit means play of God and ambalam means the stage, denoting it as the platform for arts.
The Chidambaram Temple is one of the Panchabhoota sthalas, where the presiding deity Shiva is the manifestation of the element of sky. This shrine hosts one of the unique representations of Lord Shiva as the Nataraja in anthropomorphic form in addition to the linga (that is usual in other Saivite temples) and the formless – the space of Chidambara rahasyam. The temple complex sprawls over 40 acres, with the core complex dedicated to Tillai Nataraja (Shiva) and other shrines with deities such as Sivakami Amman, Ganesha, Murugan and Vishnu in the form of Govindaraja Perumal.
The temple has nine gateways, four of which have gopurams (towers) that face the cardinal directions.
the legend
According to legend, the tillai (mangrove) forest, which once spread over the area where the temple is currently located, was inhabited by a group of sages, who began considering themselves to be as great as god. In an effort to bring them back on the path of righteousness, Shiva, disguised as a mendicant, entered the forest and began dancing, which angered them greatly. They tried to destroy him, by conjuring a tiger and a giant serpent. Instead, Shiva skinned and wore the tiger skin as a garment and seized the snake and wore it around his neck. They then unleashed a demon that Shiva easily defeated by putting a foot on the malevolent being’s back. He then performed the Ananda Tandava (dance of joy) and revealed his true form. The sages realised their folly and surrendered.
The Festival
For the connoisseurs of dance and dancers themselves, the Natyanjali Dance Festival rouses great enthusiasm since artists from all over the world covering the gamut of Classical dances – Bharatanatyam, Kuchipudi, Kathak, Mohiniattam, Odissi, etc., gather and offer their devotion through dance in the serene atmosphere of the abode of the divine dancer, Nataraja. The festival takes place every year in the Tamil month of Maasi (February–March) commencing on Maha Shivaratri and carries on for five days.
The Chidambaram Natyanjali Trust supported by the Ministry of Culture, Government of India, the Sangeet Natak Akademi and many other notable benefactors have been organizing Natyanjali since 1981, with the co-operation of Podhu Dikshitars, who are the traditional custodians of the temple. What started as a humble, indigenous undertaking has now attained global interest and recognition. Around 300 performers and about the same number of accompanying artists are hosted every year.
It is interesting to note that throughout the year aspiring and even well-known dancers visit the temple and dance informally inside the temple premises seeking the blessings of the divine Lord of Dance in contrast to the select few who perform at the illustrious festival.
Where to Stay & Eat
There are a few hotels in the city that you can choose from when planning your stay here. Lakshmi Vilas (Tel: 04144-256555-56/ 66, Cell: 09442591466/ 77; Tariff: ₹4,000–5,500), a heritage hotel on Sivankoil Street, is the best place to stay in Chidambaram. It has restaurants, room service, Internet, a spa and lots of activities. Hotel Saradharam (Tel: 221336, Cell: 09442591466/ 75; Tariff: ₹1,100–4,800) and Hotel Akshaya (Tel: 220191-92, Cell: 09943020191/ 92; Tariff: ₹1,200–5,000) are decent options with restaurants and Internet services. Budget options include Arudhra Residency (Tel: 221930, 222930, Cell: 09344646902, 09791386619; Tariff: ₹1,000–1,500), Hotel Sabanayagam (Tel: 220896; Tariff: ₹660–1,300), both on East Sannadhi Street; and Alritz Regency (Tel: 223312, 220222, Cell: 08300145018; Tariff: ₹1,250–2,750) on Venugopal Pillai Street.
It’s best to eat at the hotel you are staying in. The restaurants at Hotel Saradharam are quite popular. Other good ones include Sri Krishna Vilas, Palagaram.com and Ice n Café.
Around Chidambaram
Tillai Kali Amman temple (at the northern end of Chidambaram town) is dedicated to Shakti – Shiva’s consort, who moved to this location after losing to him in a dance contest. The forests and backwaters of Pichavaramm, located 15km from Chidambaram, attract tourists and botanists alike.
Vaitheeswaran Koil (27km), Gangaikondacholapuram (42km) and Thanjavur (110km) are amongst the numerous temples that dot the villages and towns of Tamil Nadu. Puducherry (70km) is another popular destination that is not very far away.
FAST FACTS
Festival Organiser: Chidambaram Natyanjali Trust, 56/138, East Car Street Chidambaram; Tel: 04144-222732; natyanjalichidambaram@gmail.com; natyanjalichidambaram.com
Tourist Office: TTDC Tourist Info centre, Railway Feeder Road, Chidamabaram; Tel: 238739
STD code 04144
Getting There
Air Nearest airport: Chennai (233km/ 5.5hrs). Taxi (taxichennai.com) to Chidambaram costs about ₹8 per km, but expect to pay the return fare as well
Rail Chidamabaram Railway Station is connected to Chennai, Trichy and Madurai
Road Bus A wide network of state and private buses leave from Chennai’s Metropolitan Bus Terminus at Koyambedu