On the northern tip of Telangana lies the district of Adilabad, which has some of the most spectacular forests and waterfalls in the state. Adilabad is largely hilly – the Satpura range spans 282km from the northwest to the southeast – and has the rivers Godavari, Penganga, Pranahita and Kadam flowing through it. The dry deciduous forests – resplendent in hues of yellow, orange and green – cover about 6,000sq km or 43 per cent of Adilabad’s area. While the undulating terrain, prehistoric rock formations and teak forests are a feature of the entire state, it is in the Adilabad District that you can see the best of these topographical peculiarities.
Adilabad was named after Adil Shah, the erstwhile king of Bijapur. Earlier, the region was known as Edulapuram and ruled by dynasties such as the Chalukyas, Rashtrakutas, Asaf Jahis and the Gond kings of Sirpur and Chanda. The district also has a large population of adivasis, especially Gonds.
Some of the major towns in the district are Adilabad, Nirmal and Mancherial. While the town of Adilabad is the district headquarters, it does not have much of interest for tourists. On the other hand, Nirmal, a city on the district’s southern edge, has a plethora of attractions and is conveniently located. Close to Karimnagar and Nizamabad, Nirmal is the gateway to the district as well as its political headquarters. The name Nirmal is thought to have been derived from Nimma Naidu (some claim it was Neema Naik), a 17th century ruler who was a great patron of the arts. The ruler invited the Naqqash (artisan) communities to settle in the town and encouraged their craftsmanship, making it a centre of artistic production. The legacy of these artisans still stands strong – the city is renowned for its eponymously named wooden toys. Earlier, the city was also a centre for production of cannons and heavy artillery for the Nizam’s army, but these closed down after the state’s accession to the India Union.
ORIENTATION
Nirmal is a small city, though most of the tourist attractions here are located at great distances. Nirmal Fort is in the centre of the city and is surrounded by commercial establishments. Most of the hotels are clustered on the old NH7 that runs across the periphery of the city and ultimately connects to the new NH7 that leads to Adilabad. The bus stand is on this road as well, close to the fort.
TIP While you can hire an autorickshaw in Nirmal to explore the forts, it is advisable to hire a taxi if you wish to explore other places in Adilabad District. All the forts are open throughout the day, though it would not be advisable to visit after sunset
THINGS TO SEE
Nirmal Fort
Almost every hillock in Nirmal has a fort or the ruins of a fortification. So if you ask for directions to a particular fort, predictably there is a lot of confusion. Adding to the confusion, the Nirmal Fort – as some people like to call it – has multiple names, utterly confounding the first-time visitor. And this despite the fact that the fort is in the middle of the city and towers above it. However, there is a solution – the most well known landmark for Quilla Gutta or Bhairava Gutta, as the Nirmal Fort is also known, is the Devarakonda temple on its western periphery.
Not much is known about the forts of Nirmal, but it is believed that most of them were built during the rule of Srinivasa Rao in the 17th century. While the forts have been extensively ravaged over the years, the ramparts still stand strong, testifying to the engineers’ skill and talent. However, while the fortifications are extant, most of the structures inside are completely dilapidated. Worse, several haphazard constructions and unplanned development have swallowed the lower reaches of the fort and at the rate at which they are proliferating, not much will remain of the structure in the years to come.
Nirmal fort has multiple entrances, with one of the main entrances being on the western side diagonally opposite the police station next to the Devarakonda temple. A paved road lined with houses leads up to large tanks. From there, the path becomes narrower and leads to an entrance of the fort, outside of which there is a temple. Within, there a few ruined structures including a series of arches at the edge. There are many trails lined with dense overgrowth of thorny brambles, which makes exploring the fort seem like an adventure sport. After making your way through the scrub – hopefully unbruised – you will reach one of the bastions. The view from atop here makes the expedition completely worth it, especially during sunset when the city and the surrounding hills are awash in golden hues.
On the northern part of the fort, there is another entrance beside a garbage dump, where a recently-constructed staircase leads to the top. There is a statue of Bhairava on one of the boulders, but not much can be accessed here as the paths have been blocked due to random construction of houses. There is also a well inside the fort known as Atta- Kodalla bavi (literally ‘mother-in-law daughter-in-law well). On a hillock to the west, there are ruins of a smaller fortification.
TIP Wear hiking shoes and thick clothing as all the forts in and around Nirmal have a dense overgrowth of thorny brambles
Battis Garh
At the eastern periphery of the town, there are a series of expansive lakes over which towers the Battis Garh fort. It is one of the largest fortifications of Nirmal, though remarkably desolate. The entrance of the fort is on the west and is accessible by a staircase constructed in recent years. While the ramparts and bastions are largely intact, most of the structures inside are in ruins. Ahead of the entrance, there is a bastion with an inclined path leading up to it. However, this is often covered in thick vegetation, making it difficult to spot. There is a cannon atop the bastion, which has spectacular views of the city and the surrounding forts.
Apart from the ruins, the fort mostly has scrubs and boulders. The overgrowth is often burned to clear the pathways. There is also a pillared hall to the left of the entrance.
On the hillock opposite Battis Garh is another smaller fort. Depending on the rainfall, you might see a shallow lake populated with water birds between the two. The forts are accessible by a dirt track off the Vellapally Road, which is to the east of the town.
Shyam Garh
As you approach Nirmal from Hyderabad, it is hard to miss Shyam Garh on your left. The rugged fort once overlooked a picturesque lake, though now a highway divides the two. The entrance of the fort is to the north. Not much remains of this citadel apart from a few ruins and walkways on parts of the rampart.
Multiple restoration projects have been undertaken and the government has tried to make the monument more tourist-friendly, though these attempts have not made much headway. At the time of research, the beautiful stone battlements were being painted a ghastly white. The remains of bright blue umbrellas and broken benches are strewn all over the fort.
There is a Haritha cafeteria next to the monument, though it is currently under renovation. Shyam Garh is about 2km south of the city centre on the NH 7.
SHOPPING
Most shops selling Nirmal art and toys are clustered around Shri Krishna Residency on the old NH7. The Nirmal Toys and Arts Industrial Cooperative has a wide range of toys, paintings as well as handicrafts at fixed prices.
Other shops where you can buy these crafts include Nirmal Gift Articles (09959298998), Nirmal Paintings (09959298998) and Nirmal Art Gallery (9505903242, 9966774839).
WHERE TO STAY AND EAT
There are only a few accommodation options in Nirmal, so make sure you book in advance. Mayuri Hotel (Tel: 08734-241919, Cell: 073869- 72444/ 1222/ 1333; Tariff: ₹890– 2,100) on Bus Stand Road is the best the town has to offer. It is well-maintained, has 28 clean and comfortable rooms and offers internet facilities.
Another option is Sri Krishna Residency (Cell: 09705972103; Tariff: ₹500–840), which has AC and non- AC rooms as well as room service. If everything is booked out, you could try Hotel Tirumala (Tel: 242345-47, 243045; Tariff: ₹525–971), which has AC and non-AC rooms and a shady restaurant-cum-bar. Women should avoid this hotel as it caters to an exclusively male clientele.
Geeta Bhawan, near Sri Krishna Residency, serves excellent vegetarian meals. The restaurant at Mayuri Hotel has some scrumptious non-vegetarian options.
AROUND NIRMAL
As compared to other districts in the state, Adilabad is relatively remote and spans a large area. The tourist attractions here are rather spread out and commuting between destinations can be time-consuming. As one of the largest cities in the district, Nirmal is a good place to base oneself to explore the interiors, especially the waterfalls and the Kalwa Narasimha Swamy Temple. Alternatively, one can also stay at the Haritha Hotels in Kaddam and Jannaram, which are closer to the wildlife sanctuaries. Keslapur and Jainath Temple are relatively nearer to Adilabad town.
TIP ATMs outside Nirmal and Adilabad are mostly non-functional, so keep enough cash in hand
Soan Garh (12km)
This fort, close to the Godavari, must have once been an important outpost for many rulers, but now it stands forlorn amidst fields. However, the stone battlements of Soan Garh, rising sharply from the surrounding flatlands, still stand sturdy despite the ravages of time and neglect. A rocky, inclined path takes you to the entrance of the fort. Soan Garh is quite small, though no less impressive, compared to the other forts of Nirmal. Inside there are a few boulders and ruins overrun by dense overgrowth. A tunnel at the rear of the fort leads to a small outpost, which is a great spot for birdwatching.
Soan village is south of Nirmal on the NH 7. The fort is about 500 metres north of the village and can be easily seen from the NH7 on your left (opposite a petrol pump) when you’re driving from Nirmal. There is no approach road as such to the monument. You will have to park your vehicle on the highway or one of the dirt tracks branching from the road and trudge through fields and thorny scrub to reach the fort.
Kortikal Falls (21km)
This miniature waterfall next to a highway is a pleasant place to break one’s journey en route to the interiors of Adilabad district. The water plunges from a short but wide rock formation into a vast pool below. However, the waterfall forms only during the monsoon season and during the rest of the year, you can only see the pool below or at most, a trickle. The water carries runoff from fields and is usually quite muddy.
Kortikal Fall is right next to the new four-lane NH 7 between the villages of Kortikal(B) and Bandam Regadi. It is close to the point where the new highway meets the old NH 7 road from Nirmal.
Kuntala Falls (42km)
With a width of 100 metres and a height of about 40 metres, Kuntala is one of the largest waterfalls in south India. With multiple streams falling through a series of cascading rocks hemmed in by forested hills, the waterfall is also one of the most spectacular in Telangana and deserves to be on every tourist’s itinerary. Its scenic beauty makes it a popular location for film shoots, such as the Telugu period film Rudhramadevi (2015). It is believed that the mythical King Dushyanath met his wife Shakuntala and courted her at this waterfall. Legend has it that Shakuntala used to regularly bathe here and thus, the falls were named after her.
Swimming, bathing and climbing the rocks along the waterfall is not permitted. Kuntala can be dangerous – a point hammered in by the tourism department with posters showing gory stock images of dead and drowning people. It is during the monsoons – when flash floods occur and the rocks are slippery – that most accidental deaths occur. Many people slip into the deep fissures in the bed of the waterfall while bathing. Whirlpools have also been known to occur. However, most of the accidents have happened due to inebriated people taking unnecessary risks
Outside of the monsoons, when the flow reduces drastically, it is quite safe to venture close to the waterfall and one can have a refreshing swim in the shallow pools below. During the summer season, Kuntala sometimes dries up.
Directions From Nirmal, go 31km north on NH 7 to Neredigonda. After crossing the village, turn right and after 11km, you will arrive at Kuntala. From the parking lot, a walk of about 500 metres down 408 steps takes one to the bottom of the waterfall. There are a few shops near the parking lot which sell snacks and aerated drinks.
TIP Many day trippers visit the waterfall on weekends and it can get crowded, but on weekdays, there are barely any tourists. It is not advisable to drink the water at the falls as they carry runoff from surrounding fields and may be laced with pesticides.
Entry Free Timings 8.00am–5.30pm Parking Cars ₹40
Pochera Falls (38km)
Located amidst agricultural fields, Pochera is the second most visited waterfall after Kuntala. Pochera is a plunge waterfall, where a stream of the Godavari drops from a height of 20 metres with great force. The bed of the waterfall is made of strong granite rocks and is very deep – the deepest of all the waterfalls in Telangana. The pool formed by the waterfall is enclosed by steep granite rock formations. The stream then flows into a lush forest.
Swimming is not permitted in the pond as it can be dangerous, especially during the monsoons. Occasionally, you might find people on makeshift rafts fishing in the water – and getting a plentiful catch. A trail surrounds the waterfall, which makes for a pleasant walk. There is a Narasimha Swamy temple as well as a children’s park close to the waterfall.
To go to the waterfalls, head north of Nirmal on the NH 7. After about 33km (and having crossed Neredigonda), take a left turn and continue for 3.5km. Turn right, after which a drive of less than a kilometre will take you to Pochera. Both Kuntala and Pochera are easily accessible and there is ample signage en route to help you reach the falls.
TIP The waterfall is literally a trickle outside of the monsoon months, so plan your trip accordingly.
Entry Free Timings 9.00am–5.30pm Parking Two-wheeler ₹10; Auto-rickshaw ₹20; Car ₹30; Bus ₹50
Gayatri Falls (45km)
The Mukdi Gundam or the Gadidha Gundam, as the Gayatri waterfall is locally known, is a grand waterfall nestled deep inside the forests of Adilabad District. Compared to the other waterfalls, it is harder to reach as it involves a 5km trek through fields and thick forests.
In the Gayatri waterfall, the stream drops from a height of 100 feet and collects in large pond below. Depending on the season, the pool might have whirlpools and undercurrents, making it unsafe to swim in. You can climb along the rock formations to reach the top of the falls, though they can be quite slippery at times. Some visitors also camp near the waterfall or at Tanam Khurd village.
Directions From Nirmal, go 32km north on NH 7 to Neredigonda. From there, go 6km to Kupti village, where you will find a sign board indicating a right turn for Tarnam. A 2km-drive on a dirt road after the turn will take you to Tarnam Khurd. From Tarnam, there is a trek of 5km to reach the falls. Request a villager to accompany you to the falls as a first-time visitor is bound to get lost in the dense forests en route.
Kanakai Falls (58km)
Kanakai is one of the lesser known waterfalls and inquiries regarding its whereabouts will be met with perplexed looks or directions for Kuntala and Pochera, the two most famous falls of the district. However, that is what makes it more compelling – without the crowds that the more famous sights draw, you are bound to be the only tourist there.
While the stream that Kanakai is a part of looks like an ordinary canal dug up by farmers, at the waterfall, it assumes majestic proportions as it gushes past a series of rocks. Kanakai is not at all steep – its width is more than its height. The pool below is large, though not very deep, and outside of the monsoons, safe to swim in.
Less than a kilometre away from the falls is Kanakdurga, a small makeshift temple with an intricately carved statue placed next to the entrance.
There is an annual pilgrimage to the Kanakdurga temple in November. There are two more waterfalls close to Kanakai – both a short trek away. A narrow trail in front of Kanakdurga temple plunges deep into the forests. After walking for a few minutes, you shall reach a slightly elevated point, beyond which there will be hillocks with black rocks on your left and a stream on your right. If it has been raining a lot, you will find a waterfall here that remains dry for most of the year.
Keep walking further along the stream through dense overgrowth and you will finally reach the most spectacular of the three waterfalls – Kandli. At the top – a short and easy climb – there is nothing but flat fields and a small stream trickling through, making it is hard to believe that the same stream turns into a picturesque waterfall at the next descent.
Directions Go to Echoda, 47km north of Nirmal on the NH 7. Turn left onto the road that leads to Bazar Hathnoor. After travelling for 8km on this road, you will see a small Telugu signboard for Kanakdurga temple. Turn left onto the dirt road here. After a point, the road diverges into two – the right path leads to Kanakai and the left to Kandli. The trek through forests from Kandli to Kanakai takes about 30 minutes.
It is best to ask farmers in the fields for directions. If you intend to explore all the waterfalls in the surroundings, request them to act as your guide. The locals are helpful and will readily accompany you for a small tip.
Depending on the season, the trails might be murky and without someone guiding you, you might not be able to find the waterfalls. However, you are unlikely to get lost as there is always the occasional shepherd or farmer passing through.
TIP Wear thick, waterproof shoes as the path to the falls goes through marshy fields. The mud roads leading to the waterfall might get washed away during the monsoon, so you might have to walk from the Bazar Hathnoor road itself
Kalwa Narasimha Swamy Temple (12km)
The Narasimha Swamy Temple at Kalwa, west of Nirmal, is a stopover for many devotees en route to Basar. Narasimha Swamy, also known as Narasingh (literally ‘man lion’), is an incarnation of Lord Vishnu, the preserver of the universe. The temple, surrounded by verdure, is a plain structure with a few idols sculpted atop the entrance.
The idol of the deity is seated in a yogic posture and next to him is Goddess Laxmi, his consort. The statue depicts a gentler side of the otherwise ferocious god. There is a chariot within the temple premises. During festivals, it is decorated with flowers and used to ferry the idols of the deities. On certain occasions, the ritual of ‘Vana Bhojanam’ –where priests serve food to devotees alfresco – is conducted. The temple premises are also a popular spot for picnics.
From Nirmal, take the Basar- Nirmal road (NH 222). After 10km, turn right onto the road towards Kalwa and continue for 2km.
Kaddam Dam (49km)
Kaddam (or Kadem) is one of the tributaries of the Godavari. Between 1949 and 1965, a dam was built at the spot where the river merged with the Godavari to irrigate about 25,000 hectares of agricultural land in Adilabad District. The dam has two canals for water distribution and currently has the capacity to irrigate 68,000 hectares. Kaddam was named after a sage called Kandava who is supposed to have performed many grand yagnas here. It was initially known as the Godavari North Canal Project and was later renamed as the Kaddam Narayana Reddy Project in honour of a local politician. There is a road built on the periphery of the lake through which you can access the dam. However, vehicles are not allowed on the dam itself. During the monsoon, you can see water gushing through the flood gates.
The lake, fringed by hillocks and forests, has become a popular tourist destination off late. Telangana Tourism provides facilities for boating on the dam. A Haritha Hotel (Tel: 08730-252525; Tariff: ₹750–1,100) has been set up along the lake with cottages laid out around a landscaped garden. The newly built resort is a good place to escape urban chaos. On moonlit nights, the silvery beauty of the lake and the star-studded sky make for an enchanting experience. The silence is occasionally interspersed with the chirping of crickets and droning of insects.
The dam is located 40km away from Nirmal on the Nirmal Mancherial Road. Kaddam dam also falls on the Secunderabad-Manmad railway line.
Boating Timings 10:00am– 6:00pm Tickets Speed Boating (10 minutes, minimum 3 people) ₹250; Deluxe Boat (10 minutes, minimum 10 people) Adults ₹30; Children ₹20
Kawal Wildlife Sanctuary (83km)
Established in 1964 to protect endangered species, the Kawal Wildlife Sanctuary has a core area of 863sq km, to which another 1,123sq km was added as buffer zone. The tropical dry deciduous forest, comprising largely of teak and bamboo, has 673 species of plants, 267 bird species, 34 species of reptiles and 75 kinds of mammals such as the wild dog, sloth bear, sambar and gaur. There is a deer breeding centre and an information centre run by the forest department close to the entrance of the Kawal Wildlife Sanctuary.
The sanctuary was declared a tiger reserve in 2012 even though it did not have a single tiger then. In 2015, however, forest officials spotted pug marks in the villages of Kawal and Dongapalli, which pointed to the possibility that a tiger had strayed in from the nearby Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve. There are many adivasi communities in the notified area of the sanctuary – about 2,000 people live in 43 settlements here.
There is a lot of human disturbance in the sanctuary. Consequently, the population of many animals has decreased over the years. The number of wild boars and ulungates went down to 2,500 and 4,300 respectively in 2014 from 6,000 each in 2013. Outsiders encroach the forest to fell firewood and bamboo, though the felling of the precious teak wood is strictly regulated by the government. The forest-dwelling communities have largely refused to relocate as it would threaten their livelihood and way of life.
Kawal is one of the more accessible wildlife sanctuaries within the state. The Haritha Hotel at Jannaram organises wildlife safaris (₹1,000 for a minimum of 5 people, ₹200 per extra person) in a pickup that has 4 open air seats in the back. The 35-km-long return journey through the forest takes at least 90 minutes to complete and can last up to 2.5 hours. Sightings are rare, apart from langurs, deer and the occasional wood smuggler. If you are lucky, you may come across sloth bear or wild dog.
The Kawal Wildlife Sanctuary is located about 5km east of Jannaram, which is a good base to explore the forest as well as other tourist attractions in the eastern part of Adilabad District. Jannaram is 78km east of Nirmal and 62km west of Mancherial on the Nirmal- Mancherial Road. There is a check-post near the sanctuary which is closed from 9.00pm to 6.00am to bar traffic on the forested route from Nirmal to Mancherial.
TIP Be careful of wayward branches and elaborate spider webs if you are sitting in the open section of the safari jeep. Make sure to carry enough food and water for the duration of the expedition.
Timings 9.00am–5.30pm
If you wish to stay close to the sanctuary, there is Telengana Tourism’s Haritha Hotel in Jannaram (Cell: 07680827292; Tariff: ₹1,000–1,600, dorm ₹1,800). Meals can be had at their restaurant. There is also a forest department guesthouse at Jannaram with two rooms.
Pranahita Wildlife Sanctuary (176km)
About 35km from Mancherial, a large expanse of dry deciduous teak forests dominate the landscape on the banks of the Pranahita river, a tributary of the Godavari. The forests, protected as a part of the Pranahita Wildlife Sanctuary, have an undulating terrain interspersed with plateaus and grasslands. The sanctuary was established in 1986, primarily to protect the endangered black buck.
Within the sanctuary, there are exquisite prehistoric rock formations where many fossils have been discovered. The vegetation largely consists of dalbergia paniculata, pterocarpus marsupium, dalbergia latifolia and dalbergia sissoo. The sanctuary is home to porcupines, nilgai, leopards, wild dog, civet, otter, rhesus macaque, langurs and hyena as well as birds such as herons, storks, Brahminy ducks and teals.
However, there are no tourist facilities in the sanctuary and it is largely closed off to visitors. Besides, the lack of clearly marked trails and signage make it challenging to explore.
Jainath Temple (100km)
The Laxmi Narayana Swamy Temple in Jainath is a remarkable specimen of Pallava architecture, which incorporates elements of Jaina architecture as well. Built on a two-feet- high platform, the temple is a small structure with a carved façade. The idol of the deity in the sanctum sanctorum is made entirely of black stone and has a height of six feet. The temple also has a stone inscription of 20 lines in Prakrit. It mentions that the shrine was built by a ruler of the Pallava dynasty (4th to 9th century CE), which is famous for its rock-cut architecture. The inscription sug-gests that the temple was historically significant and it is believed that the Pallava dynasty gave royal patronage to the village.
The temple has a Brahmotsava festival in October–November. Jainath is 100km north of Nirmal and 23km away from Adilabad.
Keshlapur (210km)
Close to the north-eastern border of Telangana, the village of Keshlapur (or Keslapur) is an important pilgrimage destination for the Gond and Pandhar communities. The hamlet, 86km north of Mancherial, has a temple dedicated to Nagoba or the serpent god, whom the Mesram clan of Gonds claim to have descended from. According to folklore, Nagoba came to Keshlapur after a king had infuriated him. The villagers appeased the deity by offering seven kinds of naivedyam (ritual offering), a practice which continues to this day. Until the 1970s, there was only an anthill under a tree at the spot where the temple stands now.
The temple is the site of a grand adivasi jatara (carnival), which is held over five to six days in the month of Pushya (December– January). The festival starts with purification of the temple with water drawn from the Godavari at a place called Hastimadugu, which is believed to be the spot where Nagoba drank water after having the naivedyam. The women then prepare the ritual offerings for the deity using nine varieties of grains. At night, a grand prayer is performed in honour of the god. The ceremony of bheting – in which newlywed women are integrated into a clan – is also a part of the festivities.
One of the prime attractions of the jatara is the Gusadi dance of the Gond tribes. The performers have ash smeared all over their bodies and wrap a cotton cloth around their torsos. Each dancer wears elaborate headgear is decorated with peacock feathers. Earlier, musicians from the Pradhan community would sing the legends of Nagoba – a tradition which has disappeared in recent years, to the consternation of many revellers.
Location Keshlapur is 86km north of Mancherial village
- Wooden birds made by artisans in Nirmal
- Wooden fruits made by artisans in Nirmal
Toy Story
Nirmal is famous for its wooden toys and paintings – an industry that has a glorious history of 400 years. The handicrafts were traditionally made by the Naqqash – an artisan community that migrated from Karnataka at the behest of Nimma Naidu (though according to some legends, they came from as far as Rajasthan).
The toys include dolls, carts and lifelike miniatures of fruits, animals and birds. They are usually made from a locally available kind of soft wood known as poniki. The paints used were earlier made from minerals, gums and herbs, though now synthetic lacquer paints are in vogue. These duco paints are responsible for the sheen of the toys and the paintings. The toymakers earlier used to make furniture for the nobility as well, but after the seventh Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan was dethroned, they lost patronage. The government stepped in to promote the handicrafts and subsequently, a cooperative of the artisans was established.
Nirmal paintings are instantly recognisable by their sheen and vivid colours. The subjects of the paintings are generally scenes from rural life, flora and fauna and portraits of gods and people. One of the most popular paintings, that has been extensively reproduced, is of a woman dressed in a sari, carrying a basket on her head while playing a stringed instrument. The paintings are made on a framed wooden board and often sport a dark backdrop, which makes their vibrant colours stand out even more. Some experts have traced the influence of Mughal and Kangra miniatures on these paintings.
While the toy industry has received government support, the painters have not been as lucky. There are very few traditional artists left – according to a report in The Hindu, Brahmarouthu Rao is the sole surviving painter from the Naqqash community. Most of the artists have taken up other jobs as without support, painting is an unsustainable profession.
The Gonds of Telangana
Spread across the Deccan Plateau, the Gonds are one of the largest adivasi communities of India. Estimates regarding their population vary from 10 million to 14 million. The Gondi language belongs to the Dravidian family of languages.
Between the 14th and 17th centuries CE, various Gond rulers held sway over tracts of central India, including parts of Telangana. There is a sizeable population of Gonds in Adilabad District, whose culture, traditions and way of life is very similar to those of their clanspeople in the neighbouring states of Chhattisgarh and Maharashtra.
The Gonds were one of the many adivasi communities that fought against colonial rule – a history that has largely been forgotten. One of the leading luminaries of the community in Telangana is Komaram Bheem, who fought a guerilla war against the Nizams to secure adivasis’ rights to their land and forest resources. It is believed that he coined the slogan ‘jal, jangal, jameen’ (water, forest and land), which has become a rallying cry for indigenous communities across the country fighting against corporate land grab and dispossession.
FAST FACTS |
When to go October to March. Go to the waterfalls during or after the monsoons |
Tourist Office |
District Manager Telengana Tourism Haritha Hotel Near Police Station Basar Cell: 08499878784 STD code 08734 District Adilabad Location Southern part of Adilabad District Distance 223km N of Hyderabad |
GETTING THERE |
Air Nearest airport: Hyderabad airport (272km/ 4–5hrs) is well-connected by flights within India as well as abroad. State transport department taxi charges ₹1,800/ 80 km, plus Rs. 15 per extra km for outstation hire |
Rail Nearest railhead: Nizamabad Railway Station (60km/ 1hr approx), on the Secunderabad-Manmad line has links to almost all major cities such as Secunderabad, Bengaluru, Mumbai, Chennai, Visakhapatnam, Ahmedabad and Bhopal. Important trains include Nizamabad-Mumbai Express, Nizamabad-Kollam Express, Indore- Bangalore Express, Ajmer-Hyderabad Superfast and Amravati-Tirupati Superfast. A non-AC bus to Nirmal costs ₹55, a taxi will charge ₹10 per km |
Road Nirmal is connected to Hyderabad by the arterial NH 7 |
Bus The route between Hyderabad and Nirmal is well served by both state-run and private transport services. Pooja Travels (Tel: 040-64590400/ 9400) offers the most bus connections. The journey takes about 4–5hrs. You can also book online at W rebus.in. AC and non-AC options are available between 6.00pm and 10.45pm. Fare varies from ₹280–Rs.800 |