Type Cultural Festival Time June/ July Location Ochira, Near Kollam, Kerala
Kerala, drenched in monsoon rain, gears up to celebrate Ochira Kali, at the Ochira Parabrahma Temple in the Malayalam month of Midhunam. Waterlogged paddy fields near the temple turn into mock war zones – padanilams – where people belonging to different karas (areas) perform a mock fight choreographed in the martial art style of Kalaripayattu. Clad in Kerala military liveries and sporting swords (or cane sticks) and shields, about 3,000 experts from 52 localities converge at the main padanilam. Ochira Kali is celebrated to commemorate the real battles fought between the neighbouring princely states of Kayamkulam and Venad, about two centuries ago.
THE FESTIVAL
The festivities begin after sighting the auspicious Krishna parunthu (Brahminy kite, an eagle believed to be the vehicle of Lord Krishna), which flies over the battlefield. Then leaders of the rival groups rush to the field and announce their decision to slug it out on the following day, on which fighters assemble and display their prowess in thakida kali (the fighting style as it is called here). The battle is fought in an atmosphere of brotherhood and performed rhythmically to the beat of the chenda (drums). One side advances first and then allows the other side to come forward.
People from all over the state, and sometimes the country, throng the padanilams to witness this colourful event. Men of all age groups take part in these performances and every year, the number of participants only increases. Special awards are given to asans (gurus) by the temple authorities to ensure greater participation. Also, performers are given some prize money by the organisers of the event. Finally, a grand feast marks the end of the festivities.
THE BACKDROP
Situated on NH47, between Kollam and Alappuzha, Ochira is unique in many aspects. Spread over 36 acres of land, it is the only temple in India dedicated to Parabrahma – the supreme consciousness. It doesn’t have any idol or deity. Unlike other temples, this temple does not have a definite structure or mode of worship; it is just a vast tract of land. The concept behind this is that the supreme consciousness cannot be contained within four walls of a temple; it is the vastness that is worshipped here. Some historians say that this was a Buddhist temple as Karunagappally, a nearby town, was a centre of Buddhism once upon a time.
The temple provides shelter and acceptance to anyone who seeks help. Service to mankind is service to god is the basic philosophy behind the temple. Gopuram, East Nada, West Nada, Ondikkavu, Ayyappa temple, Mahalakshmi temple and Ganapathi temple are some of the points of worship within the temple. Vrischikotsavam or Panthrandu Villakku and Irupathettam Onam are the other important festivals that are celebrated in the temple. Panthrandu Villakku is a 12-day festival held in the Malayalam month of Vrichikam (festival dates: 1–12 November). Devotees assemble here and put up in modest kudil (huts) in the padanilam itself, leaving behind their social status and financial clout.
Irupethettam Onam is held on the 28th day after Onam. Gigantic effigies of kaalas (bulls), made by people from nearby localities, are taken out on a procession on this day. Normally the day falls in September or October.
There is uniqueness in the kind of offerings made in the temple. Kayyum Kalum, Annadanam, Bhajanam Parkkal, Ettukandam Urilicha, Vedi Vazhipadu and Uru Nercha are some of them.
Kayyum Kalum: Devotees offer images of hands and legs to heal health problems. Annadanam: Offering food to those hungry is considered a noble act in Hinduism. People offer money to the temple to provide food to the poor. Annadanam has been organised by the temple administration for 60 years now. Bhajanam Parkkal: During the 12-day Vrichikotsavam, devotees leave the comforts of their homes and stay in thatched hutments. They become mentally stronger and thereby achieve peace and harmony in their lives. Ettukandam Urilicha: Decorated bulls are taken out on a procession around the two banyan trees (aal tharas) here. Vedi Vazhipadu: Devotees burst bombs and light other fire works in the temple. Uru Nercha: Devotees present a calf to the temple when their wishes are fulfilled.
Ochira kala (Ochira bull): Bulls hold a special place in Ochira. According to legend, a Brahmin scholar, along with his attendant, set out on a spiritual journey. All through the journey, the servant kept asking his master what Parabrahma looks like. Annoyed by the constant questioning, the Brahmin replied saying Parabrahma looked like a big bull. The servant started meditating with the image of a bull in his mind. Finally, Parabrahma appeared before the servant in the form of a bull. Today, one can see many bulls roaming around freely within the temple compound itself.
AROUND OCHIRA
Oachira is the gateway to the sprawling Matha Amruthananda Mayi Devi Ashram at Vallikkavu, which is just 3km away.
Krishnapuram Palace, built in the 18th century by the erstwhile Travancore king Marthanda Varma Maharaja is also located nearby.
where tostay andeat
The only decent place to stay in Ochira is Royal Regency Hotel (Tel: 0476-2698888/ 02/ 03; Tariff: ₹2,100–3,950), which has well-furnished rooms and suites. It is located on NH47 and offers a multi-cuisine restaurant, coffee shop, curio shop and Internet services.
Located by the backwaters in Neendakara, Regant Lake Palace (Tel: 2655555, Cell: 09605033337, 09605082288; Tariff: ₹3,000–6,500) has cottages that offer beautiful views of the lake.
FAST FACTS
Tourist offices
District Tourism Promotion Council
Near KSRTC Bus Stand, Kollam
Tel: 0474-2745625, 2750170
W dtpckollam.com
Directorate of Tourism
Government of Kerala
Park View
Thiruvananthapuram
Tel: 0471-2321132
W keralatourism.org
STD code 0476
GETTING THERE
Air Nearest airport: Trivandrum International Airport, Thiruvananthapuram (104km/ 3hrs). Taxi to Ochira will cost around ₹2,500
Rail Ochira railway station is the closest but Kayamkulam Junction (7km/ 30mins) is convenient as all major express trains from all over India halt here. Taxis, autos and buses available up to Ochira
Road KSRTC has good bus services to Ochira from Karunagapally, Kayamkulam and Chavara. However, there are no direct buses from Kollam. Buses go up to Karunagapally from where you need to change