Pachmarhi: Blessed by Nature

One of India’s more unusual getaways, the town of Pachmarhi is not easy to reach, which is what helps preserve its status as a quiet little hill station. It is the highest point in Madhya Pradesh, nestled in a saucer-shaped plateau that comprises jagged peaks and red-sandstone escarpments. The hills encircle a landscape of lush sal and bamboo forests, which is indented by deep gorges and canyons, and overrun by pristine cascading streams.

In fact, what really distinguishes Pachmarhi from other hill stations is its abundance of water bodies. Visitors to this town can have a picnic down at a chilled rock pool bathed in sunlight, or swim and then relax by near a waterfall or a confluence of streams. Where the streams enter the gorges, it is even possible to swim up long narrow pools.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

The town consists of a small bazaar, an army station, and a sprawling civil area that retains a distinct Colonial ambi ence with church spires rising over the treetops. The neighbouring woods and hills can be easily accessed by jeep taxis, and sometimes even on foot, ideally with guides.

Natural Beauty

Pachmarhi has the usual roster of places from where you can enjoy gorgeous views: Dhupgarh (the highest point between the Himalaya and the Nilgiris, at 4,429 ft), known for its famous sunsets; Bee Falls; Fairy Pool, which entails a descent on foot and Duchess Falls, which is slightly difficult to get to but well worth the effort, despite the crowds (visit during the off-season period to avoid the rush). Fairy Pool, extremely popular with tourists, is a shining, silver waterfall that cascades down five levels to form five tiny bathing pools, collectively called Panchali Kund. It plunges another 30 ft to create the spectacular pool itself. Duchess Falls is another must-see destination, where you will be rewarded with some unique sights.

Bee Falls, Pachmarhi

Jitender Gupta

Away from the water, there are great views to be enjoyed if you climb up the linga-shaped peak of Chauragarh. For a scenic two-hr walk, take the bridle path around Astachal (the old Monte Rosa) that rejoins the road near the huge cave of Reechgarh. Wind up the walk with a visit to the Dorothy Deep rock shelter, which has prehistoric cave paintings.

Within the civil area are the Buddhist period rock-hewn Pandav Caves, the landscaped government gardens and Bison Lodge, a museum. Pandava Caves or Panch Mathi, is where Pachmarhi derives its name from. It is believed that the Pandavas of the Indian epic Mahabharata spent some time here during their exile.

Shrines

Over centuries, the region’s topography, comprising ravines, cliffs and deep caves, has become the location of Shaivite shrines.

Pachmarhi is known for its annual Shivaratri Mela in February/ March when thousands of devotees throng the Mahadeo Temple, 10 km south of the town, carrying symbolic tridents to plant on the sacred Chauragarh summit. The Jatashankar Cave Temple is another popular spot.

Stairway leading to the opening of the Pandav Cave

Jitender Gupta

Prehistoric Rock Paintings

In the cliffs and ravines of Pachmarhi, the soft sandstone of the Satpuras weathered into a profusion of rock shelters. These provided safety to hunters and gatherers, who left behind vibrant compositions depicting hunting scenes, warriors with bows and arrows, soldiers on horseback with swords and shields, demons, magicians, dancers, honey-gatherers and so on. While visiting these today, you can also wander around lush forests of sal and jamun trees, clamber down rocks and cliffs, stumble upon rippling brooks and take a refreshing dip in one of the several natural swimming pools.

About 50 sites have been surveyed, but only two of the sites are protected monuments with signposts leading to them (you still need a guide to find the path). The Dorothy Deep shelter in particular has a stunning location and is less than an hour’s walk from the road.

The magnificent façade of the Catholic Church

Kedar Bhat

Churches

Catholic Church, built in 1892, has stained-glass windows from Belgium that create marvellous hues, but is now open only to the army. Christ Church, built in 1875, is considered one of Madhya Pradesh’s most beautiful churches. It has stained-glass panels that were imported from Europe.

Trekking

For some interesting treks around the area, contact the trekking club set up by the youth of an adivasi tola (hamlet) with the assistance of an NGO. They can be reached through Vinay Sahu (Cell: 094253 67365) at his shop in front of Saket Hotel (Tel: 07578-252165, 252256) in the bazaar. Vinay has a rough map of the half- and full-day walks the Tola Trekking Club offers for which you will need a guide. You must walk to discover Pachmarhi’s unique offerings, and in hiring a guide for a modest fee you will be supporting a livelihood.

WHERE TO STAY

The WelcomHeritage property, The Golf View (Tel: 07578-252115, Cell: 09425017793; Tariff: ₹7,000-10,500) is a tastefully converted bungalow.

MP Tourism’s Rock End Manor (Tel: 252079; Tariff: ₹5,990, with meals) is a restored former Colonial bungalow set upon a hillock. Satpura Retreat is another MP Tourism property (Tel: 252097; Tariff: ₹2,690-3,490, with meals), which offers an experience akin to staying in a forest bungalow.

The charming cottage and garden of Evelyn’s Own homestay

Kedar Bhat

MP Tourism has several other properties, such as the Amaltas (Tel: 252098; Tariff: ₹1,990-2,590). Panchvati (Tel: 252096; Tariff: ₹2,590) is a fully restored bungalow, next to the MPTDC Information Centre offering huts with their own gardens, and individual rooms.

Also by MP Tourism is Champak Bungalow (Tel: 252034, 252587; Tariff: ₹4,590-5,590, with meals), located near Padmini Lake, which offers tents and rooms. The homestay Evelyn’s Own (Tel: 252056, Cell: 09425310503; Tariff: ₹2,000-4,000; only breakfast served) is a charming cottage. Hotel Pachmarhi (Cell: 09327788000; Tariff: ₹900-2,640) is centrally located with fully furnished rooms and a vegetarian restaurant.

WHERE TO EAT

All the MP Tourism hotels have a restaurant serving a standard Indian and Chinese menu. Amaltas serves a delicious combination of dosa and coffee, apart from meals. The alfresco dinner under the stars at Rock End Manor is delightful.

MP Tourism also runs the China Bowl restaurant, in a bungalow near Panchvati. The Open Garden Restaurant offers a fairly large multi-cuisine repertoire at very reasonable prices. The Golf View Hotel has a vegetarian-only menu. Among the better known nonvegetarian restau rants in the bazaar is the Khalsa, and for a thali meal, Mrignayani located near Gandhi Chowk is a good option.

When to go October-March Location In south Madhya Pradesh’s green Satpura Range, at an elevation of 3,550 ft Air Nearest airport: Bhopal Rail Nearest rail: Pipariya