Palani Hills: Temples and Trees

The name Palani refers to two entities: one, the Palani Hills in central-west Tamil Nadu, not far from the Kerala border and known for their forest-covered slopes; and two, Palani town in these hills, home to the holiest shrines of Murugan, the patron deity of Tamil Nadu.

The Palani Hills were once covered with evergreen forest extending almost to the plains. Though what remains today is only a large patch on the northwest plateau, it has over 20,000 recorded species of flora, and is home to the mighty Indian bison and the almost-extinct Nilgiri tahr – the only wild mountain goat found in south India. Kodaikanal is the most well known face of these hills.

Campsite overlooking misty hills

Dr MS Mayilvahnan/ Hornbill Images

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Tucked into the folds of Palani Hills is one of the six abodes of Murugan. Progeny of Shiva, Murugan is primarily worshipped in areas with Tamil influence. He has many names, Karthikeya and Subramanya being the most popular. Others include Senthil, Kumar and Skanda. In Palani, he is worshipped mainly as the lord of the Tamil hills. But it is in his first avatar, as the Perennial Child, that he is most loved. For devotees, he is also the ‘king of the smile’.

Dhandayuthapani Swamy Temple

Lord Murugan is worshipped in Palani as Dhandayudhapani Swamy, the ‘Lord with the Staff in his Hand’. The pilgrim town is known for this hill temple that houses a very unique idol made by a combination of nine minerals. The idol is also different for it is a standing Subrahmanya with a clean-shaven head, dressed in a loincloth like a sanyasi, bearing a staff and not the sacred spear. The daunting 693 steps (alternatively, you can take a rope car or a winch) lead you to the temple, perched at 1,500 ft, from where you get a spectacular view of the Idumban and Kodai Hills, paddy fields, rivers and Palani town.

Tip Watch out for the monkeys when you are in the queue to enter the main sanctum. It’s best not to carry colourful bags or trinkets

A  temple at Palani Hills

Dinodia Photo Libary

Thiruavinankudi Temple

The presiding deity of this temple is Velayutha Swamy. Thiruavinankudi is a beautiful rock temple with a remarkable main altar – a rare idol of Subrahmanya as a child perched on the peacock with his sacred spear studded with diamonds. Lord Subrahmanya is said to be holding court here, resolving disputes of deities and devotees alike. The temple has a magnificent six-tiered rajagopuram with colourful stucco sculptures and a large temple tank.

Location At the foot of the Palani Hills Timings 5.30am-8.00pm

Shola Forests

Palani Hills promises fresh air, the sounds of nature, thick jungles, interesting hikes, a serene lake, wildlife and birds. The forests here are primarily of three varieties – tropical, temperate and montane grasslands, the last found in the higher reaches.

Close to Bison Wells Jungle Lodge is a watering hole, which attracts a congregation of bison during the early hours of the morning – hence, the imaginative name. The valley below the lodge has a charming lake, which you can most likely have to yourself, and the hills that rise on the opposite bank are covered with thick sholas. Strolling by the lake with the reflection of the hills and the setting sun glistening on the surface of the water is a very peaceful experience. Sambars strolling out of the forest on the opposite bank for a drink, grebes dotting the tranquil lake surface and red wattled lapwings nesting on the shores, calling out to their mates are some of the most common sights there.

Room at Elephant Valley Resort

Courtesy Elephant Valley

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

There are no upmarket hotels in Palani town. Also, all accommodation costs double during the festival seasons. Hotel Subam (Tel: 04545-242672; Tariff:  ₹1,300-3,500) is located to the north of Giri Street, at the foothill. Hotel Vels Court (Tel: 247770; Tariff:  ₹2,400-4,500) and Hotel Ganpat (Tel: 242294, 325746; Tariff: ₹995-3,000) are newer options.TTDC’s Hotel Tamil Nadu (Tel: 241156; Tariff:  ₹850- 1,100), located on the main Giri Street near the Winch Station, offers AC and non-AC rooms. 

In the Palani Hills, Elephant Valley Resort (Puducherry Tel: 0413-2655751, Cell: 09244103418, 09787748664; Tariff: ₹3,300-5,700) is a beautiful eco-sensitive staying option and organic farm, located at the edge of a reserve forest, 22 km from Kodaikanal.

Also in the midst of the hills sits a camp run by George Roshan, a wildlife photographer. The Bison Wells Jungle Lodge (Tel: 04542- 240566, Cell: 09786139723; Tariff: ₹3,800-4,300, with all meals) is 30 km away from Kodaikanal and 95 km from Palani town, set within the forests of the Palani Hills. The lodge is a rugged camp-style chalet built into the forest, not in an artificial clearing imposed on the forest. It is constructed to blend with the earthy ambience of mountain wilderness and rustic countryside.

The whole set-up is very compact and you will totally be away from all material comforts, with only the most basic amenities (not including electricity, so dinner is always a romantic, candlelit affair). The cook dishes out delicious Indian, Chinese and Continental meals, cooked on a wood fire.

At Bison Wells, you can go out on hikes in the surrounding jungles on the slopes of the hills. George will arrange for a guide. The alternative is to just laze around in the sit-out with a book in hand and gaze at the quietly beautiful scenery around you. If you are lucky, you might even spot a herd of bison.

When to go Any time of the year, except the late monsoons in July-August Location Part of the Western Ghats, these hills rise to the west of Dindigul in central-west Tamil Nadu Air Nearest airport: Coimbatore Rail Nearest rail: Dindigul