There are many stories that are still very much alive in Malappuram today, where the roads are lined with ungainly bars and bakeries, and where ancient structures are often pulled down to make way for shiny, modern buildings. These tales have survived the ravages of time, even if the structures to which they refer to have not been left untouched or do not exist as they used to be. A large number of these tales can be dug up at Perinthalmanna.
Located around 40 minutes from Malappuram, Perinthalmanna was once the capital city of the Valluvakonathiris. Today it is known mostly as a trading centre. Most of the kovilakams (royal residences) are somewhat dilapidated, some still occupied with members of the royal family. The gardens are overrun with weeds and snakes, and the stables and storehouses are empty. Yet, some remanant of the splendour of an opulent past still remains, mostly untouched, rendering the rustiness in the air inconsequential.
It is difficult to ignore the stark contrast between tradition and modernity omniscient here. Every day, devotees can be seen climbing the hill to reach the Thirumandhamkunnu Temple, fresh flowers in hair, their silk pavadas (skirts) rustling in the wind, to ask for blessings. The road below is filled with the cacophony of blaring cars while the shops lining the temple road thrive.
At the foot of this hill stands a platform, where a signboard in Malayalam tries to rescue the Chaverthara from obscurity with no apparent success. This is the memorial for the Chaver soldiers of the Valluvanad Kingdom; year after year, they sat and prayed here for 41 days before setting off to kill the Zamorin King in missions doomed to failure. They are sometimes remembered as the suicide squad of the Valluvanad Kingdom. For the inquisitive traveller, one who is passionate about digging up myths and legends, Perinthalmanna is a veritable goldmine.
ORIENTATION
Perinthalmanna’s hotels and markets are at the heart of the town. The most convenient way to visit all these sights is to take a bus or hire a taxi. Nilambur (41km from Perinthalmanna) does not have decent stay options and visitors are advised to not only factor in the driving time but to reserve a full day to visit Nilambur. Also, visitors must keep in mind that the dress code for temples is, mundus for men and saris or salwar kameezes for women.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Much like the rest of Malappuram, Perinthalmanna also reflects the changes due to investing of Gulf money. However, it surprises tourists by consistently honouring and treasuring old, almost forgotten art forms. Even in Nilambur, where old houses are regularly dismantled, the rich past is a recurring motif evident in all sights. Those visitors who are able to meet the royal family are truly taken on a journey through the past, when the tree-filled Valluvanad Kingdom spread all the way to Ooty.
Thirumandhamkunnu Temple, Angadipuram
Thirumandhamkunnu, one of the most beautiful temples near Perinthalmanna, stands atop a hill, affording visitors a truly gorgeous viewofthesurrounding countryside. The origins of the temple can be traced to a legend about Lord Shiva rewarding King Mandhatha of the Surya Dynasty with a Shivalingam that was dear to Goddess Parvati. While returning from Mt. Kailash, the abode of Lord Shiva, the King decided to stop at Thirumandhamkunnu (kunnu is hill in Malayalam) due to its scenic surroundings. The Goddess Parvati arrived here, furious, laying claim on the lingam. In the ensuing battle, the Shivalingam was split into two, between the goddess and the king. The goddess was pleased with the king’s devotion and allowed him to keep both pieces of the Shivalingam. However, as she could not part with it, she decided to stay here as well.
This legend is depicted in the murals in the temple. Another artistic marvel to be found in the Thirumandamkunnu Temple are the sculptures carved onto the ceiling, portraying scenes from the Ramayana. At the entrance of the temple, below the hill, is a raised platform called the Chaverthara, where the Chaver soldiers prayed before their suicide mission to kill the Zamorins.
Location Angadipuram, 3km from Perinthalmanna, just off NH213 Timings 4.00–11.00am & 5.00– 7.00pm Main Festival The 11-day Thirumandhamkunnu Pooram in Meenam (March–April)
Mankada Kovilakam
Beyond the creaking gates and crumbling padippura (a shelter at the entrance of the residence, a common architectural element in old houses in Kerala) lies the kovilakam, its beauty carefully guarded behind lock and key.
The descendants of the Valluvanad kings, to whom the kovilakam belongs, live in the surrounding houses. The Mankada Kovilakam has a number of unique architectural features, including the splendid teak pillars in the verandah, the beautiful wooden ceilings, and the two courtyards, common in ettukettus (traditional houses).
This architectural style is characteristic of the four kovilakams in Malappuram, at Azhiramnazhi, Mankada, Manjeri and Kadannamanna, possibly because the architects of those days followed vaastu vidya almost religiously. Visitors are advised to remember that the kovikalams in Malappuram are still residences of the royal family; it is thus ideal to seek their permission before taking a look around.
Location Manjeri Road
Kadannamanna Kovilakam
This kovilakam is similar to the one at Mankada, but also distinguished by its unpolished red laterite walls. There is a small temple inside the kovilakam, which also houses ancient vessels and weapons. Additionally, this kovilakam overlooks two temples – Vadakkinedath Temple and Thekkinedath Temple. The Vadakkinedath Temple can be accessed from the kovilakam itself, and houses idols of Lord Ayyappa and Lord Krishna. The Thekkinedath Temple, on the other hand, is located down a road to the right of the kovilakam. This temple has a remarkable conical roof, quite difficult to construct.
Location Ahead of Mankada, just off the road
Jamaat Mosque, Malappuram
While the Malappuram town itself has little to offer tourists, it is difficult not to be enthralled by the narrow lane lined with old houses where the 280-year-old Jamaat Mosque is located. Its white walls and blue doors add to the rich atmosphere. The mosque’s architectural style is consistent with that of a Hindu temple, perhaps because the mosque was built under the supervision of the Hindu Prana Nambi family. It is said that this royal family had usurped some property from the Muslim community once, and soon after became afflicted by an incurable illness. For relief, they were advised to build a mosque; the Jamaat Mosque stands today as a sign of their repentance. Architecturally, it also reflects the intercultural mosaic that is Kerala’s heritage.
Location Malappuram-Venkara Road
TIP Women are not allowed inside the mosque
Arya Vaidya Sala, Kottakkal
Before five-star hotels and spas spun glossy brochures of Ayurveda, and the word became a symbol for cures that modern medicine cannot promise, treatments were offered at this Arya Vaidya Sala by Vaidyaratnam P.S. Varier (1869–1944). What started off as a small dispensary in 1902 has grown both in stature and size, to such an extent that the name Kottakkal no longer stands for the town, but for the Arya Vaidya Sala itself
The scent of Ayurvedic oils permeates the premises, spread across several buildings. There are two hospitals, one free and the other non-charitable, which together offer treatments to over 5 lakh people each year only. The costs of these treatments can vary from ₹40,000–60,000 for month-long retreats. Doctors can be consulted here between 9:00am to 12:30pm. It is advisable to make bookings for treatments in advance because of the huge number of people who flock here every day.
Location Tirur-Malappuram Road Tel 0483-2742216-19, 04832742210/572 Email mail@aryavaid yasala.com W aryavaidyasala.com
PSV Natyasangham Kathakali School, Kottakkal
Set up by the same doctor who established the Arya Vaidya Sala, the Natyasangham School is located down the road from the hospital. The late PS Varier was a patron of the arts and this school is one of his most enduring contributions to the promotion and preservation of Kerala’s culture. The students are usually happy to show you the costumes used for Kathakali performances; occasionally, they even stage performances for tourists. The best time to visit is when classes are held, from July to August.
Location One kilometre from the Vaidya Sala
Venkattathevar Temple, Kottakkal
At least 64 mural paintings are to be found on the walls of the sreekovil of the Venkattathevar Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva. These murals depict scenes such as saints praying to God and Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati in a forest. Dividing the murals are paintings of birds and flowers, known as pakshi mala (a garland of birds) and poovu mala (garland of flowers). Sculptures on the walls recount the story of Arjuna praying for the pashupati astra.
Location Next to the Kathakali school Timings 5.00–10.30am, 4.00–7.30pm Main Festival Venkattathevar Utsavam in April
- Items for sale, Kumbham Handicrafts Village
- Items for sale, Kumbham Handicrafts Village
Nilambur Kovilakam
An open ground can be seen from the padippura of the now mostly dismantled Nilambur Kovilakam, at the centre of which is the Vettakorumakan Temple. This temple is dedicated to the son that Lord Shiva had in his kirata avatar (as a tribal), a local popular deity. A six-day music festival called the Nilambur Pattu Utsavam is held every January here, when the tribes from all the surrounding hills gather to partake in the festivities. Facing the temple are the only two houses that speak of the past. One now houses the billiards room, while the other, an impressive structure, has an open drawing room lined with pillars. The top floor has a room where the first Prime Minister of India, Jawaharlal Nehru, is said to have stayed.
Teak Museum, Nilambur
This museum, which claims to be the first teak museum in the world, tackles the unlikely subject of the history and life of teak trees. Apart from displaying ‘the moods of a teak tree’ – an exhibit as charming as its name – the museum also showcases fascinating trivia as the age of the oldest teak tree in the world, located in the Parambikulam Wildlife Sanctuary
Entry Adults ₹10; Students ₹5 Timings 10:00am–5:00pm, Closed Mondays
Kumbham Handicrafts Village
This forgotten village, located in a hilly corner of Nilambur, has seen its share of rough times. Not too long ago, the Kumbharan artisans were struggling to make a living out of selling pottery items.
However, many were forced to look for alternatives when their art could not compete in the market. Some took to prostitution, and the village was dubbed a red-light area. However, under the initiative of K.B. Jinan, a social worker who visited the village, they revived their traditional craft form.
Today, terracotta furniture, wall hangings, sculptures, tiles and garden accessories can be found even in five-star hotels.
Location Aruvacode, off Ooty-Kozhikode Road W kumbham.org
Mrithika Studio
Artist Sherif Nilambur’s Mrithika Clay Art Studio at Nilambur is also well worth a visit. Sherif sculpts detailed, gigantic clay figures using tools as varied as sea shells and fine bamboo sticks. His sculptures portray scenes from traditional Kerala life, the lives of Malayali women and religious themes.
Location Hospital Hill, Nilambur
SHOPPING
Perinthalmanna’s duty-free shops are bursting with electronic goods, and have led to a number of local showrooms shutting down. Clothes stores abound, great for purchasing traditional, cream-coloured Kerala saris. Some options are Firdous Bazaar on Ooty Road, Chandam Textiles on CLT Road, Silk Park in Shalimar Building, and Chamayam on Mannarkad Road. For handicrafts, head to the DRDA Shop next to the District Tourism Promotion Council in Uphill, Kozhikode Road.
There are plenty of souvenirs here, from clay elephants and Kathakali masks to Ayurvedic medicines and snake boats. Kottakkal makes its contri-bution to the shopping circuit with an urbane furniture shop called Tip Top Furniture, on the Kottakkal-Malappuram Road.
Flavours of Arabia
In a land where food is always prefixed with the word ‘fiery’, the broast chicken is something of a novelty. Lacking as it is in the richness of spices, the promising sizzle of red hot chillies and the reassuring flavour of coconut milk, its cult status in Malappuram is somewhat baffling. The broast chicken is a dish served at nearly all hotels in Malappuram,
Chefs will tell you that the popularity of this singularly Arabian dish is largely due to the Gulf Malayalis. The demand for this culinary import is so immense that most hotels in the region have bought the expensive machines needed for frying the chicken pieces.
Preparing the dish is also quite an elaborate affair. The chicken pieces have to be cut using a special machine, which is also imported. As a result, there are shops that specialise only in cutting chicken for this particular dish. These pieces are marinated in masalas, which can be spiced up on request, for about two hours. The chicken is then dipped in a powder made of maida (white flour), cornflour and garam masala, and fried in the machine. A white sauce is prepared with garlic, potatoes, milk, sunflower oil and eggs, to be served along with the fried chicken. The broast chicken is usually eaten with kubboos, a chapati-like bread from the sands of Arabia.
WHERE TO STAY
KPM Residency (Tel: 04933-227590; Tariff: ₹800–4,000) has Internet, a restaurant that serves everything from Chinese to Punjabi cuisine and the rooms have cable TV.
Hiton Hotel (Tel: 222200/ 33; Tariff: ₹2,500–7,000) on Calicut Road offers good rooms, restaurant, gym and Ayurveda. Blue Mont Residency (Tel: 257100, Cell: 08129505070; Tariff: ₹700–1,350) opposite Thali Temple offers 18 rooms.
Green House (Tel: 270015, Cell: 09447767358; Tariff: ₹1,500, with two meals) is a good homestay option with home-cooked Kerala and Moplah meals.
WHERE TO EAT
While the restaurants in Malappuram are not glamourous, visitors will be spoiled for choice due to the repotoire of food that is on offer in this small place.
Perinthalmanna’s KR Bakery, which has outlets on Mannarkad Road, Kozhikode Road and Ooty Road, has built its reputation on its delicious and highly affordable chicken wings. Also worth sampling are their varathadu chicken (fried chicken) and halwa. This place is a must try for visitors.
Hotel Hiton’s Hi-Food Restaurant is well-known for its Continental, Chinese, Arabian, mughlai as well as Kerala cuisine. The dishes are delicious and worth trying.
Hotel Presidency Park’s restaurant, where pathiris are prepared right before their patrons’ eyes, is famous for its broast chicken. KPM’s restaurant has a similar menu. TPDC Hotel and Garden Restaurant on Kozhikode Road serve decent food as well.
FAST FACTS
When to go Between October and March, before the summer heat and after the monsoon
Tourist Office
District Tourism Promotion Council (DTPC), Uphill Malappuram, Tel: 0483-2731504
W malappuramtourism.org/, STD codes Perinthalmanna 04933, Malappuram 0483, Nilambur 04931
GETTING THERE
District Malappuram
Location Perinthalmanna, the most developed town in Malappuram, is near the district’s southeast border, next to Palakkad District
Distance 82 km SE of Kozhikode
Route from Kozhikode NH213 to Perinthalmanna via Kondotty, Manjeri and Malappuram
Air Nearest airport: Kozhikode’s Karipur Airport (52km/1.5hrs). Pre-paid taxis to Perinthalmanna will cost around ₹1,500
Rail Nearest railhead: Kuttipuram (35km/ 1hr) and Shoranur Junction (40km/ 1hr) are both served by most trains that stop at Kozhikode. Taxis from Kuttipuram and Shoranur to Perinthalmanna will costs around ₹1,300 and ₹1,400 respectively
Road Perinthalmanna is on NH213, which links Kozhikode to Palakkad (60km away via Mannarkad). Perinthalmanna is 91km from Kozhikode via Kondotty and Malappuram.
Bus Perinthalmanna’s KSRTC Bus Stand (Tel: 04933-227422, 227342) on NH213 has services to Kozhikode, and Palakkad. Buses leave every 20 min to the Malappuram (Tel: 0483-2736240) and every 60 minutes to the Nilambur (Tel: 04931-223929) KSRTC stands