Ponnani: Last Stop on the Nila

Life in the ancient port of Ponnani runs at a pace unfettered by timetables and deadlines, which is reflected in the somewhat impersonal patience of the boatmen who ferry passengers across the gleaming blue waters formed by the confluence of two rivers and the Arabian Sea.

A 15-minute boat ride will bring you to Padinjarekkara Beach, where passengers wishing to get to the other side of the river gather under coconut trees. From here, down a narrow road, which never seems to end, is a small temple. In the kovilakam that is all but falling apart, is a green pond filled with lotus flowers. The boat ride that brings visitors here costs only a few rupees.

Ponnani, and indeed most of Malappuram, is in many ways reassuringly committed to not changing, to a way of life that some would describe as dated or conservative. In this sense, it is quite unlike the rest of Kerala, sheathed in the comfort of Gulf money and duty-free shops, strangely able to connect with the culture and cuisine of a distant Arab land. While its neighbours have opened their hearts and hearths to tourists who come looking for Ayurvedic massages and the peace of the backwaters, Malappuram continues to remain somewhat enigmatic, its distinctive mosques shrouded in mystery, its temples cloaked in fables. There are no tour guides to deconstruct the colourful frescoes in temples, no houseboats to ruffle the deep-green backwaters. The only promise is that of discovery.

Padinjarekkara Beach

Prashant Panjiar

THING TO SEE AND DO

The main attractions around Ponnani are spread across the west Malappuram region. It has a lot to offer, particularly for heritage lovers, though many of the monuments, including the mosques with their unique architectural styles, are disintegrating due to age and neglect. Malappuram is also not particularly used to tourists, and it is advisable to tread carefully and respect the many restrictions put in place in the region. Most temples only allow men wearing mundus and women wearing saris within their premises; trousers, shirts, skirts and even salwar kameezes are not permitted. Non-Hindus are not allowed in most temples and women are not permitted within mosques.

Padinjarekkara Beach, Ponnani

The beach is located where the Nila River meets the Arabian Sea. A private boating service offers two speed-boats, a water scooter and a floating coffee shop (two boats tethered together). The beach is more famous for bird-watching, as migratory birds are often spotted here. Located about 5 km from Chamravattom, it can also be accessed by sea if one is coming via the Ponnani-Chavakkad Road.

The picture-perfect Padinjarekkara Beach at Ponnani

Prashant Panjiar

The Blue Yonder (Puducherry Tel: 0413-4502218, Cell: 098860-53286; W theblueyonder.com), a tourism-promotion company that works towards weaning locals away from sand-mining, which has done irreparable damage to the Bharatapuzha. They organise rafting trips on the Thoothapuzha tributary of the Bharatapuzha, and provide facilities for bathing at Vakkad Beach near Tirur.

Navamukundan Temple, Thirunavaya

Sometimes referred to as the ‘Kashi of the South’, this allegedly 6,000-year-old temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Located on the Tirur-Kuttipuram Road, on the banks of the Bharatapuzha, the temple stands witness to the last rites people perform as the river placidly flows past the steps. The beauty of the shrine lies not only in its scenic natural setting, but also in the exquisite sculptures around the sreekovil. Carved into the wall on the top row, just below the sloping roof, are the ten avatars of Lord Vishnu. The row below has sculptures, which narrate the tale of how Lord Shiva, in his kirata avatar, as a tribal, blessed Arjuna with the powerful weapon, the Pashupati Astra.

Devotees throng the Navamukundan Temple at Thirunavaya

Prashant Panjiar

Step outside and you’ll see a structure to the left of the gate, marking the spot where the Zamorin kings would sit and watch Mamankam, a cultural event held once every 12 years on the banks of the Bharatapuzha. All the rulers under the Zamorins participated in the event, which started off as a trade fair at the port of Ponnani.

The tale is filled with pathos when told in Malappuram, as the Valluvanad king, who once ruled over the region, was charged with the right to conduct the Mamankam before a Zamorin king wrested the rights from him. The battle between them never really ended. To prove his ground, the Zamorin would stand in a place called the Nilapadu Thara, surrounded by his soldiers, and the Valluvanad king would send his soldiers, the Chaver Pada, to kill them. The soldiers were always unsuccessful. The locals now tell a gruesome story of how the Zamorin had the bodies of the soldiers thrown into a well; if they piled up to the top, he would have an elephant shove them in. The well, known as Mani Kinar, is located on the premises of the CSI Hospital at Kodakkal, on the Tirur-Kuttipuram Road. Only a slab of stone, covered with weeds, is leftof the Nilapadu Thara, located within an abandoned, privately owned tile factory.

Lamp at Garuda Temple

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Keraladeeshapuram Temple, Tanur

The coastal town of Tanur is famous for St Francis Xavier’s visit in 1546, the Apostle of the East, who lies entombed in the Basilica of Bom Jesu in Old Goa. The temple stands at the end of a long narrow road and is notable for its red tiles. Believed to be over 3,000 years old, it was once owned by the local Vettathu dynasty. It is said that the temple is located on the line that would split Kerala into two equal parts. Due to years of neglect, the temple’s murals have disappeared under a coat of paint; and the ancient idol of Krishna was destroyed by Tipu Sultan’s army. Efforts are being made to restore it.

Garuda Temple, Triprangode

The Garuda Temple at Triprangode is believed to be the only temple in India dedicated to Garuda, Lord Vishnu’s faithful carrier. This quiet, small place of worship makes for a pretty picture. It also houses a rare shrine where Lord Vishnu is worshipped in his koorma avatar –as a tortoise. Legend has it that Lord Vishnu sent Garuda here after a saint prayed to him from the spot. The Garuda shrine is easily recognised by the carvings of golden snakes around it. Pilgrims usually stop here en route to Sabarimala.

Pazhayangadi Mosque, Kondotty

Decorated with delicate filigree work and topped by a lovely white dome, this mosque is unique in Kerala because it embodies facets of Mughal architecture, and dates back to the 18th century. The Valia Nercha here is an immensely popular festival, and draws huge crowds.

A cottage set amidst palm trees, NC Gardens and Beach Resort

Courtesy NC Gardens and Beach Resort

WHERE TO STAY

There are very few accommodation options in Malappuram as this part of Kerala is still relatively new to tourism.

The NC Gardens and Beach Resort (Tel: 0494-2471480-82, Cell: 09961471480; Tariff: ₹3,375-4,750), located at Ariyallur, Vallikunnu, is the closest Malappuram has to a beach resort. It’s right on Vallikunnu Beach, which is just south of Karipur Airport, has cosy cottages, a multi-cuisine restaurant and a travel desk.

KTDC has Motel Araam (Tel: 0494-2698997; Tariff: ₹950-2,000) in Kuttipuram overlooking the Bharatapuzha river. It is about 18km from the Ponnani beach and has a restaurant.

KTDC also has Tamarind Easy Hotel (Tel: 0483-2717200, Cell: 09400008670; Tariff: ₹1,250-2,000) on TB Road in Kondotty, close to the Karipur Airport. The rooms are clean and the restaurant serves great vegetarian and nonvegetarian food.

WHERE TO EAT

The traditional Malabar Muslim cuisine of Malappuram is colourful and flavourful. Pathiri, an appam like delicacy made of rice powder, is quite popular and usually eaten along with chicken curry. Parotta (fried layered bread), naichoru (ghee rice), meen (fish) curry, beef fry and kallumakaya (mussels) remain favourites as well, while payam pori (banana fritters) is a common and delicious snack.

There are very few restaurants here, though there are several small eating joints and cafes. Albaik, Thazhepalam on Calicut Road, Tirur, is popular for its Arabian delicacies, such as banana muthabak (spring roll made with white flour), as well as Keralite cuisine. They have outlets in Bypass Junction as well. Hotel Palace Broast in Bypass Junction at Kondotty also has a similar menu, so has Sultan Palace here. Keralite dishes are available at NC Garden Resort as well.

When to go November to February, after the monsoon, when the weather is somewhat cooler Location Ponnani, one of the earliest ports in Kerala in Malappuram District, lies at the confluence of the Bharatapuzha and Tirurpuzha rivers and the Arabian Sea, on the southern Malabar Coast in southwest Malappuram Air Nearest airport: Kozhikode Rail Nearest rail: Kuttipuram, Ponnani