Life in Ponnani runs at a pace unfettered by timetables and deadlines, reflected in the somewhat impersonal patience of the boatmen who ferry passengers across the water, and the fishermen who submit to the rhythm of the water itself, darning their long blue nets while their catch dries in the sun. Large boats, named Zainuddin and Misriya, are slowly pulled apart and put back together again, while others sail smoothly across the surface of the gleaming blue waters that form the confluence of two rivers and the Arabian Sea in the ancient port of Ponnani. Seagulls ride the waves with the boats, and fish occasionally leap out of the water, escaping certain death at the beaks of watchful birds sometimes by a mere whisker.
A 15-minute boat ride will bring you to Padinjarekkara Beach, where passengers wishing to get to the other side of the river gather under coconut trees. From here, down a narrow road that never seems to end, there is a small temple, a million legends drifting in the river next to it. In the kovilakam, that is all but falling apart, is a green pond filled with lotus flowers, hiding behind a dissipating roof. Time has stood still here, clearly. The boat ride that brings visitors to this place, costs only a few rupees but offers the gift of time. While tourists and traders rush around bound by their agendas, life in Ponnani itself has a sense of luxurious disconnection from time, a near nonchalance reflected in the unaffected durability of the large ferries, which are older and seem almost wise in their slowness, when compared with the speedboats and water scooters that await holiday-makers. The floating coffee shop in the midst of this peacefulness embodies this spirit, offering joy and languid refreshment at a small price.
Ponnani, and indeed most of Malappuram, is in many ways reassuringly committed to not changing, to a way of life that some would describe as dated or conservative. In this sense, it is quite unlike the rest of Kerala, sheathed in the comfort of Gulf money and duty-free shops, strangely able to connect with the culture and cuisine of a distant Arabic land. While its neighbours have opened hearts and hearths to tourists who come looking for Ayurvedic massages and backwaters, Malappuram continues to remain somewhat enigmatic, its distinctive mosques shrouded in mystery, its temples cloaked in fables. There are no tour guides to deconstruct the colourful frescoes in temples, no houseboats to ruffle the deep-green backwaters. The only promise is that of discovery.
ORIENTATION
The main attractions around Ponnani are spread all over the west Malappuram region. Vistors will need to hire a taxi, preferable if one intends to cover many places in one day, or take a private bus to get from one place to another.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Malappuram has a lot to offer, particularly for heritage lovers, though many of the monuments, including the mosques with their unique architectural styles, are disintegrating due to age and neglect. Malappuram is also not particularly used to tourists, and it is advisable to tread carefully and respect the many restrictions put in place in the region. Most temples only allow men wearing mundus and women wearing saris within their premises; trousers, shirts, skirts and even salwar kameez are not permitted. Non-Hindus are not allowed in most temples and women are not permitted within mosques.
Padinjarekkara Beach, Ponnani
The beach is located where the Bharatapuzha meets the Arabian Sea. A privately owned boating service has two speedboats, a water scooter and a floating coffee shop comprising two boats tethered together. The beach is more famous for bird-watching, as migratory birds are often spotted here. Located about 5km from Chamravattom, it can also be accessed by sea if one is coming via the Ponnani-Chavakkad Road.
The Blue Yonder, a tourism-promotion company that runs the Riverside Retreat at Kuttipuram, is active in weaning locals away from sandmining, which has done irreparable damage to the Bharatapuzha. They organise rafting trips on the Thoothapuzha tributary of the Bharatapuzha, and provide facilities for bathing at Vakkad Beach near Tirur.
Tel Bengaluru Office080-41152218, Cell 09886053286 W theblueyonder.com
Navamukundan Temple, Thirunavaya
Sometimes refered to as the ‘Kashi of the South’, this allegedly 6000-year-old temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Located on the Tirur-Kuttipuram Road, on the banks of the Bharatapuzha, this temple stands witness to the last rites being performed as the river placidly flows past the steps. The beauty of the shrine lies not only in its scenic natural setting, but also in the exquisite sculptures carved around the sreekovil. Magnificiently set against the wall on the top row, just below the sloping roof, are the 10 avatars of Lord Vishnu. Just below these are sculptures narrating the tale of how Lord Shiva, in his kirata avatar, as a tribal, blessed Arjuna with the powerful weapon, the Pashupati Astra.
Step outside and you will see a structure to the left of the gate, marking the spot where the Zamorin kings would sit and watch Mamankam, a cultural event held once every 12 years on the banks of the Bharatapuzha. All the rulers under the Zamorins participated in the event, which started off as a trade fair in the port of Ponnani.
The tale is filled with pathos when told in Malappuram, as the Valluvanad king, who once ruled over the region, was charged with the right to conduct the Mamankam before a Zamorin king wrested the rights from him. The battle between them never really ended. To prove his ground, the Zamorin would stand in a place called the Nilapadu Thara, surrounded by his soldiers, and the Valluvanad king would send his soldiers, the Chaver Pada, to kill them.
The soldiers were always unsuccessful. The locals now tell a gruesome story of how the Zamorin had the bodies of the soldiers thrown into a well; if they piled up to the top, he would have an elephant shove them in. The well, named Mani Kinar, is located in the premises of the CSI Hospital at Kodakkal, on the Tirur-Kuttipuram Road. Only a slab of stone, covered with weeds, is left of the Nilapadu Thara, located within an abandoned, privately owned tile factory.
Temple Timings 5:00–11:00am & 5:00–7:00pm Holy Days The Amavasya days of the Kumbham (February–March), Karkidakam (July–August) and Thulam (October– November) months Tel 0494-2603747 Cell 09446631453 W thirunavayatemple.org/
Keraladeeshapuram Temple, Tanur
The coastal town of Tanur is famous as the place St. Francis Xavier’s visited in 1546; the Apostle of the East who lies entombed in the Basilica of Bom Jesu in Old Goa. The Keraladeshapuram temple stands at the end of a long narrow road, notable for its red tiles. It was once owned by the local Vettathu Dynasty. The temple is rumoured to be located on the line that can split Kerala into two equal parts.
The temple has a neglected air; its murals have disappeared under a coat of paint and the ancient idol of Krishna was destroyed by Tipu Sultan’s army. Efforts are being made to restore it to its past glory.
Location 2km to Janata Hospital near Moolakkal Junction Timings 5.00–10.30am, 5.00–7.00pm Main Festival Talappoli in December
Thunchan Smarakam Memorial, Tirur
Dedicated to the legendary 16th century Malayalam poet Thunchathu Ramanujan Ezhuthachan, this memorial is always buzzing with students, who can be seen reading or studying in the serene surroundings. In some ways this is more of a memorial to the poet, for it was under a nux vomica tree here that he taught his own students. It is believed that as a result of this the leaves of this particular tree are not bitter, as is the norm. During the early months of the year, the memorial comes alive with cultural events such as seminars and poetry readings, during the annual Thunchan Festival.
Location Kuttipuram Road, 2km from Tirur Railway Station Timings 8.30am–6.30pm; Annual Events Vidyarambam (initiation into education) Ceremonies in October, on Vijayadashami Day, Thunchan Festival in January or February Tel 0494-2422213/ 9666 Email thunchanmemorial@gmail.com, info@thunchanmemorial.com W thunchanmemorial.com
Betel Mania
The legacy of betel traders, nearly 100 years old, is a fast-disappearing tradition. Yellowing ledgers now lie half-open in their shops, some of which have been so for almost a century, as trade in betel leaves, more commonly known as the Lanka paan, suffers. The betel leaves that are grown in Tirur are distributed by 30 or so betel merchants. Earlier, they were largely exported to Lahore and Karachi in Pakistan, where they are extremely popular.
The stacks sent to Pakistan are the best and most expensive; farmers are paid ₹20 for 100 high quality betel leaves. When diplomacy prevails, the betel merchants and farmers in Tirur rejoice; but every time there is an escalation in conflict between India and Pakistan, the fortunes of the betel traders dip sharply.
These days, they are facing other problems as well, as there are no direct bookings from Tirur to the north, and stacks are sent instead to Delhi and Mumbai, from where they are routed to Pakistan. Tradition here survives sometimes only by force of will. The Lanka paan continues to add a distinctly Indian flavour to the galis of Pakistan, at least as of now.
Garuda Temple, Triprangode
The Garuda Temple at Triprangode is believed to be the only temple in India dedicated to Garuda, Lord Vishnu’s faithful carrier. This quiet, small place of worship makes for a pretty picture. It also houses a rare shrine where Lord Vishnu is worshipped in his koorma avatar – as a tortoise. Legend has it that Lord Vishnu sent Garuda here after a saint prayed to him from the spot. The Garuda shrine is easily recognisable because of the carvings of golden snakes around it. Pilgrims usually stop here en route to Sabarimala.
Location Just off Chamravattom Road Timings Weekdays 5.00– 10.00am, 5.00–6.00pm, Sundays 5.00–10.30am, 4.30–6.00pm Main Festival Shivaratri
Sastha Temple, Chamravattom
Few temples can compete with the beauty of this Ayyappa temple at Chamravattom, behind which the Bharatapuzha river flows like a fine piece of silk, its white sands making for a perfect and exquisite border. The temple, which lies beyond vast stretches of paddy fields, is believed to have been built by the legendary sculptor Perunthachan. The idol of Lord Ayyappa has been placed at the same level as the river, well below the sanctum sanctorum. In the monsoon, the temple and its surroundings are flooded; this is considered to be an auspicious time for arattu, or the bathing of the idol. Pilgrims heading for Sabarimala stop here as well.
Location Just off Chamravattom Road, 15km west of Tirur Timings 5.00–11.00am & 5.00–7.00pm
Kadampuzha Bhagavathi Temple
Quite unlike the Sastha Temple in Chamravattom, the Kadampuzha Bhagvathi Temple has no glorious idol, no festival, nor even a river that the suffix ‘puzha’ warrants. Nonetheless, Goddess Durga is worshipped here in three forms, and is considered to be so powerful that thousands of pilgrims flock here everyday, to seek blessings from the deity here.
The sanctum sanctorum is located beneath a flight of stairs, housing a small idol covered with flowers. The temple authorities also run a small guesthouse next to the temple. It has 18 rooms and a very affordable dormitory.
On the day of Karthika in the Malayalam month of Vrischikam (November–December), it is believed that the temple authorities prepare food for almost 10,000 people.
Location On the road to Kottakal, 2km east of Vettichira Timings 4.30am–12.30pm, 3.30– 7.00pm Main Festival Karthika Day, Vrischikam (November–December) Telefax 0494-2615790
TIP Non-Hindus are permitted within the premises only up to the tank. Men must be bare-chested and wear a mundu, women must wear a sari or salwar kameez
Pazhayangadi Mosque, Kondotty
This mosque has a lovely white dome, is decorated with delicate filigree work and framed by coconut trees in the distance. It is unique in Kerala because it embodies facets of Mughal architecture, and dates back to the 18th century. The Valia Nercha here is an immensely popular festival, and draws huge crowds.
Location 5km from Karipur Airport on NH213 Timings 8.00am–5.30pm
TIP Only Muslims may visit
WHERE TO STAY
There are very few good stay options in this region. Malappuram as this part of Kerala is still relatively new to the tourism business. However, there are two excellent resorts in the region.
The NC Gardens and Beach Resort (Tel: 0494-2471480-82, Cell: 09961471480; Tariff: ₹3,375–4,750), located at Ariyallur, Vallikunnu, is the closest Malappuram has to a beach resort. It is right on Vallikunnu Beach, which is just south of Karipur Airport, and has cosy cottages, a multi-cuisine restaurant, and a travel desk as well.
KTDC’s Tamarind Easy Hotel (Tel: 0483-2717200, Cell: 094000 08669/ 70; Tariff: ₹1,400–2,000) on TB Road in Kondotty is another good place to stay in this region. They have 10 rooms and a restaurant.
Located at Kottapadi on Calicut Road, is Grace Residency (Tel: 04832736201-02, Cell: 09895342236; Tariff: ₹540–1,350) is a decent budget option with 29 rooms and a restaurant attached.
In Ponnani, Rouba Residency (Tel: 2665554-55, Cell: 09446523255; Tariff: ₹1,250–3,500) on CV Junction is the only decent place to stay. It offers a multi-cuisine restaurant, coffee shop, curio shop and Internet. There is a travel desk too.
WHERE TO EAT
The traditional Malabar Muslim cuisine of Malappuram is colourful and flavourful. Pathiri, an appamlike delicacy made of rice powder, is quite popular and usually eaten along with chicken curry.
Parotta, naichoru (ghee rice), meen curry, beef fry and kallumakaya (mussels) remain favourites as well, while payam pori (banana fritters) is a common and delicious snack. There are several small eating joints and cafes here. Albaik, in the Central Plaza Building on Malappuram Road, Tirur, is popular for its Arabian delicacies, such as banana muthabak (spring roll), as well as Keralite cuisine. Keralite dishes are available at NC Garden Resort as well.
FAST FACTS
When to go November to February, after the monsoons, when the weather is somewhat cooler
Tourist Office
District Tourism Promotion Council (DTPC), Uphill, Malappuram, Tel: 0483-2731504
W malappuramtourism.org, STD code 0494
GETTING THERE
District Malappuram
Location Ponnani, one of the earliest ports in Kerala, lies at the confluence of the Bharatapuzha and Tirurpuzha rivers and the Arabian Sea, on the southern Malabar Coast in southwest Malappuram
Distance 91km SE of Kozhikode
Route from Kozhikode NH17 to Edapal via Feroke, Tirurangadi, Perumanna, Athavanad and Kuttipuram; state road to Ponnani
Air Nearest Airport: Kozhikode’s Karipur Airport (65km/ 1.5hrs). Taxis to Ponnani cost about ₹2,500–3,000
Rail Nearest Railhead: Kuttipuram station is served by most trains that stop at Kozikode, which is also a convenient railhead. Taxi upto Ponnani costs about ₹800
Road Ponnani is about 17km off NH17. To get here, visitors must drive south from Kozhikode, till Edapal via Feroke, Tirurangadi and Kuttipuram. Then, turn right towards the coast and Ponnani
Bus Ponnani’s KSRTC Bus Stand (Tel: 0494-2666396) on NH17 has regular services from Kozhikode, Palakkad, Thrissur and Ernakulam. Private buses leave for Kuttipuram and Valikunnu every 5min, while KSRTC buses only leave once in the morning and in the evening