Rohtas: Monument Central

The district boasts of heritage buildings ranging from the Mauryas to the Mughals

Tomb of Sher Shah Suri, surrounded by water tanks
Rohtas: Monument Central
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Rohtas is a district and a part of Patna Division. It comprises three sub divisions, namely Sasaram, Bikramganj and Dehri. Plan a visit to Rohtas to view the grandiose monuments here. These are an enduring reminder of the district’s interesting history, culture and association with the empires of the Mauryas, Mughals and Sher Shah Suri.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Sasaram

Rohtas district (of which Sasaram is the headquarters) is home to some of the most spectacular monuments in the country, gushing waterfalls and imposing hills. The town is well-connected by the excellent Grand Trunk Road – built by Sher Shah Suri, although some historians believe it dates back to the Mauryan empire.

Tomb of Sher Shah Suri, surrounded by water tanks
Tomb of Sher Shah Suri, surrounded by water tanks
Syed Saad Ahmed

Tomb of Sher Shah Suri

The tomb of Sher Shah Suri has been described as the finest specimen of Afghan architecture in India. Designed by architect Alawal Khan, the mausoleum stands on a square stone platform. The multi-tiered octagonal structure, made of sandstone, is remarkably symmetrical. It is crowned with a 22-metre-wide dome. Ornamental domed kiosks surround the dome. The tomb’s architecture bears influence of the style used by the Lodhi dynasty. The area surrounding the tomb has been developed into a garden with benches and walkways.

Tomb of Hassan Khan Suri

Sher Shah Suri built this mausoleum for his father, Hassan Khan Suri. While not as majestic as his own tomb, it anticipates the latter’s design and structure. Architect Alawal Khan designed and executed this tomb as well. The mausoleum is a large, three-tier octagonal chamber surrounded by a spacious verandah. Inside, there are 25 graves, including Hassan Khan Suri’s in the centre. There is a wall around the tomb complex with gateways and domed turrets at the corners. Attached to the tomb is the madarassa and prayer hall. The mausoleum is located a few hundred metres away from the tomb of Sher Shah Suri. It is popularly known as Sukha Rauza.

Chand-Tan Shaheed Hill

On the periphery of Sasaram, you can see the craggy peaks of Kaimur range. One such peak is home to a Muslim pilgrimage site – the shrine of Chand-Tan Shaheed. The mosque has an inscription at the foothill that dates its presence to the reign of Jehangir, the Mughal emperor. It is said that a saint was once struck by lightning on top of the hill where the dargah is located. The lighting caused his body to explode into pieces and in accordance with a quaint tradition of naming shrines after the cause of the death of the saint, it was christened Chand (some) Tan (body parts) Shaheed (martyr). There is a rock-cut cave close to the dargah. On the rock walls within the cave, there are eight lines of Ashokan inscriptions, in early Brahmi script.

Maa Tara Chandi Temple
Maa Tara Chandi Temple
Syed Saad Ahmed

Maa Tara Chandi Hill

A rock-carved image worshipped as goddess Tara Chandi, gives this hill on the outskirts of Sasaram its name. The image of a woman sitting on a man’s knee resembles a Shiva-Parvati image. The Maa Tara Chandi Temple, perched on the hill, is one of the most famous temples of Sasaram. It is located less than a kilometre ahead of Chand-Tan Shaheed hill.

Manjhar Kund and Dhuwa Kund

Manjhar Kund and Dhuwa Kund are waterfalls located in the hills outside Sasaram. As the water falls from a great height, it generates a lot of mist. Hence the name Dhuwa Kund (dhuwa – smoke). During the festival of Raksha Bandhan (in August), a fair is held here.

Rohtasgarh Fort

Over the centuries this enormous fort has made and unmade empires; and has sheltered kings, warriors, rebels, dacoits and until recently, Maoist guerillas.

The fort is named after Rohitashva, the son of the mythological king Harishchandra. Old inscriptions suggest that the fort was in the possession of the king Pratapdhvala of the Jalpa dynasty. The Hindu kings of Rohtas constructed a road through the jungle leading from the foothill to the plateau, erected the fortifications on the jungle roads and constructed the fourth gate on the four ghats.

In 1539, Sher Shah Suri took control of the fort, reportedly through treachery. In 1558, Raja Man Singh, Akbar’s Rajput general, ruled Bihar from the Rohtas fort. He built a place for himself, renovated the rest of the fort, cleared the ponds and laid Persian-style gardens.

The still imposing Rohtasgarh Fort
The still imposing Rohtasgarh Fort
Syed Saad Ahmed

The palace comprises a series of buildings extending from north to south, and is entered from the west through a great courtyard confined within high walls. On the inner side of this courtyard were the quarters which served as barracks for the troops; and at its north-eastern corner is the chief gate of the palace. It is an enormous arch flanked on either side by the image of an elephant carved in stone, from which it derives the name of Hathiya Pol or the elephant gate. It opens on to a large vaulted guard room, after which one comes to the Barahduari, the best preserved structure in the palace, which is believed to have been used by the viceroy as his audience hall. In front is an open verandah, which leads into a large hall with a vaulted roof overlooked by a corridor running along its entire length. Staircases at either side lead to the rooms on the upper floor, and to the flat roof which is crowned by small cupolas.

Towards the centre of the palace is the Aina Mahal, the residence of the governor’s chief wife, which stands in the middle of what was once Man Singh’s Persian garden. Of the other buildings, the most imposing is the Tahht Fddslid/ii, or Governor’s residence, which has four storeys and is crowned with a graceful cupola. On the second floor, are a handsome hall and gallery supported by solid pillars with carved cornices; on the third floor a cupola leads to a covered balcony overlooking the terraced roof of the ladies’ apartments; while the topmost cupola gives a rather magnificent view of the surrounding country.

To the west of the palace is the Jami Majid, built in 1543 by Haibat Khan, a soldier of Sher Shah Suri. It is made of white sandstone and has three domes. There is also a mausoleum, perhaps of Habsh Khan, and the tomb of Shufi Sultan. The beautiful stucco style, with the cupola resting on pillars is reminiscent of the Rajputana style where the domed structures are known as chhatris.

Façade of Hotel Rohit International
Façade of Hotel Rohit International

About a kilometre to the west of Man Singh’s palace is a Ganesh temple. The tall, imposing super-structure resembles the temples of Rajputana (Rajasthan).

Further west, lies an interesting building about which not much is known. The locals call it ‘Hanging House’ as the fall from here is a steep 1,500 ft, with no obstacles in the way. According to the locals, this spot is the mouth of a cave where a Muslim fakir is buried. It is said that he was thrown from here into the valley three times. In spite of being bound, the fakir escaped unhurt each time. Ultimately, he was buried in the cave.

TIP The road to the top of the hill is largely a rocky dirt track that only larger vehicles like tractors and hefty SUVs can ascend with ease. It can easily take upto three hours to go to the fort from Akbarpur by car. So trekking from Akbarpur is the most viable option to reach the fort

WHERE TO STAY

In Sasaram

The two best options here are Hotel Rohit International and the government-run SherShah Vihar. Avoid the hotels right in front of the station.

Hotel Rohit International (Tel: 06184-222033, Cell: 08969725324; Tariff: 2,100-7,500) on Old GT Road is one of the best hotels here, with well-furnished rooms and a restaurant. BSTDC’s Shershah Vihar (Tel: 221267; Tariff: 630-1,260) in Faizalganj is also a good choice, with clean and comfortable rooms. Hotel Maurya Royal & Restaurant (Tel: 222117, Cell: 07766990600; Tariff: 1,200- 2,100) on Rauza Road and Mountain View Resort (Cell: 08229801206/ 09; Tariff: 2,500-3,500) are other comfy stays. Both have restaurants.

In Dehri-on-Sone

The newly built Hotel Buddha Vihar (Tel: 256222; Tariff: 2,500-8,000) by the River Sone on Pali Road is a high-end property in Dehri with a multi-cuisine restaurant. Hotel Urvashi (Tel: 253201, Cell: 09031512284; Tariff: 2,000-8,000) on Buddha Marg and Hotel Rudraksha Residency (Tel: 255005, Cell: 09939400785; Tariff: 900-2,100) are other good options. All these establishments have AC as well as non-AC rooms, multi-cuisine restaurants, power back-up, Wi-Fi and other convenient facilities. Hotel Sone Breeze (Tel: 252212, Cell: 09304949710; Tariff: 400-1,850) on Pali Road is a decent budget option. It offers a canteen and room service.

WHERE TO EAT

Sasaram has a variety of eateries. The restaurants at Hotel Rohit International, Maurya Royal and Mountain View Resort serve Indian, Chinese and multi-cuisine fare. Besides these, there are Food Plaza, Apoorva Restaurant, Bagicha and Prince Restaurant.

There are also plenty of restaurants in Dehri-on-Sone. The food at Buddha International, Urvashi and Rudraksha Residency is much appreciated. You can also try Food Court near Nehru College and Anjali Restaurant on Pali Road.

When to go October to March Location In south-west Bihar, at a height of 108m from the sea level and drained by the River Sone Air Nearest airport: Patna Rail Nearest rail: Sasaram, Dehri-on-Sone

THE INFORMATION

Bhagalpur

Tourist Information Centre

Cell: 09801566828

STD code 0641

Munger

Tourist Information Centre

Fort Area, Munger

Cell: 09801566828

STD code 06344