The Route: Likir-Yangthang-Hemis Shukpachen-Angtemisgam-Nyurla
You won’t find an easier trek than this in Ladakh. The passes are all around 12,000 ft, and the distances between places are relatively short. Plus, there is the added bonus of the Himalayan Homestays Programme, offering accommodation in village homes, which means you don’t have to lug tents and equipment all the way. This is also probably the only trek in Ladakh one can safely do alpine-style, without porters and guides. But on the other hand, you could also make this a safe adventure holiday for the entire family, with smaller children having the exciting option of riding on ponies. Ask your trekking agency about this option.
The Sham area of Ladakh is quite dry and hot and although you can trek this route anytime from the beginning to end of Ladakh’s tourist season (late Maylate September), I would suggest planning it either during the beginning or towards the end to avoid the hotter middle months.
When I first trekked this route in the late nineties, the link road from Likir to Temisgam was just being built. Today, it is a full-fledged ‘pucca’ road, albeit with little traffic. So much of the journey can be done comfortably following the road all the way except on Day Three between Hemis Shukpachen and Ang. Of course, you can take brief excursions on the short-cut tracks made by the villagers throughout the trek.
Since it takes only an hour and a half from Leh, set out for Likir after lunch and visit the Likir Monastery and either pitch a tent in the campsite under the monastery for the night or try the Hotel Lhukhil (Mob: 09419840149; Tariff: ₹3,000). It has 22 comfy rooms with attached baths.
DAY ONE
LIKIR-PHOBE LA-CHAGATSE LAYANGTHANG
DISTANCE 9 KM TIME 4-5 HOURS
LEVEL MODERATE
Although the distance today is short, the route is hot, without any shade or water and you must traverse two passes, so start early with water bottles filled. For Ladakh, these passes are low, but do not underestimate them. I huffed and puffed all the way with a 15-kg backpack, ran out of water and had to struggle up the Chagatse La (11,909 ft). It was not very pleasant! From Likir, take the road heading west up to Phobe La (11,745 ft). The climb is gentle and you will top the pass in an hour. From the pass, you can scramble down the short-cut tracks and meet up with the road below, avoiding the longer loops of the jeep road. The road continues west to Sumdo, a small settlement where you can stop for tea. Just before Sumdo, you will need to cross the stream over a bridge.
From Sumdo, follow the main road that climbs steadily upwards, winding its way to the west for a little over an hour. From Chagatse La, it is another 30 mins down. The village of Yangthang (11,909 ft) is on your left through the fields. The camping area is near the main stream, but why don’t you try one of the Ladakhi homes for the night?
If you reach early and have the energy, check out the Ridzong Monastery, which lies about an hour south of Yangthang. This quiet, secluded gompa is over a hundred years old and nestles in a narrow gorge.
DAY TWO
YANGTHANG-TSERMANGCHEN LA-HEMIS
SHUKPACHEN
DISTANCE 8 KM TIME 2-3 HOURS
LEVEL EASY
Today is an easy walk despite the pass because both the approach and the descent are of gentle gradients. From Yangthang Village, head back through the fields onto the road that brought you here and turn left, or west. The road heads north, descending for a bit, crossing a stream before climbing up west again to Tsermangchen La (12,303 ft). Take a break at the pass before heading down to Hemis Shukpachen. The village, named after the grove of cedars (shukpa in Ladakhi) is one of Ladakh’s prettiest. There are plenty of sparkling streams surrounded by shady willows and large barley fields that add the much needed dash of green to the otherwise desolate, rocky mountains.
Book your stay with the Himalayan Homestays (Web: himalayan-homestays. com) or camp out near one of the brooks.
DAY THREE
HEMIS SHUKPACHEN-MEBTAK LA-ANG
DISTANCE 10 KM TIME 3 HOURS
LEVEL EASY
Again a fairly easy day if you don’t lose your way as I did. I set off in a splendid mood early in the morning, following a small irrigation stream due west and saw a track going steeply up the hill to the left. I assumed this was the path and climbed and climbed right to the top, where the track simply disappeared! It took me a while to realise that this was the local high pasture, that the track was a mere goat-track and that I should give up and head right back. From the top I was able to see the real track, rather wide, which moved between two hillocks west of the village, past the old chortens. Follow this track (there is no road as yet between Hemis Shukpachen and Ang) moving west-north-west through a rather ravaged landscape, until it veers south and climbs steeply up to the Mebtak La (12,303 ft), marked by prayer flags. From the pass head down the gorge to Ang, a charming village with apricot orchards. Choose between the comfort of a Himalayan Homestay or camping out.
DAY FOUR
ANG-TEMISGAM-NYURLA
DISTANCE 8 KM TIME 3 HOURS
LEVEL EASY
The last day is very easy as it’s downhill all the way to the main road. You will probably meet up with lots of villagers from Temisgam heading to Nyurla on the main highway to catch a bus to Leh. If you don’t feel like walking all the way to Nyurla, you could even ask your trekking agency (or the Leh Taxi Stand) for a taxi pick-up at Temisgam, or hop onto a local bus or truck.
Time 4 days
Level Easy
Ideal Season Late May and late Sep
Location West of Leh in the Sham area
GETTING THERE AND OUT
FROM LEH to Likir, it’s 60 km/1½ hrs by car (₹775) or 2 hrs by bus (₹40). There are a number of buses running between 5.30 am and 3.30 pm.
RETURN Get picked up at Nyurla (80 km/2 hrs) and either return to Leh by taxi (return fare ₹1,600) or by local bus (₹52/3 hrs) at 8 am
TIP Book your taxi in Leh as none are available in Nyurla