Sulthan Bathery: A Farewell to Arms

While its name is reminiscent of its rather unromantic past as an ammunition dump, walking around Sulthan Bathery offers much more than stories about marching armies, munitions and battles that marred the picturesque and peaceful scenery of the area. Once known as Ganapathivattam, or the circle of Lord Ganapathi, its name was changed when Tipu Sultan marched in with his army and used a 13th-century Jain temple as a storehouse for arms. Today, a police station stands on what was once his fort. Despite its grim history, there is plenty of fun to be had in Sulthan Bathery, be it at the fascinating Edakkal Caves nearby with drawings dating back to the Neolithic Age, or at the Chethlayam Falls and the Lower Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary. The mountains within which Sulthan Bathery is nestled are also ideal for trekking.

THING TO SEE AND DO

It is possible to visit all relevant sights around Sulthan Bathery in two days. The sights are spread out along the roads out of Sulthan Bathery, to the east and the west.

EDAKKAL CAVES

Edakkal literally means ‘other stone in between’ in Malayalam. The caves, located on an ancient route connecting the ranges of Mysore to the ports of Malabar, are a source of mystery to archaeologists. The origins of the engravings in the caves remain unknown; while some believe they date to the Neolithic Age, others have pointed to engravings which seem to be from the Mesolithic Age, when celts (a prehistoric implement) were used.

View of verdant surrounds from a terrace at Tranquil Resort

Courtesy Tranquil Resort

Private vehicles can only travel up to the first kilometre of the gradient, where they must be marked at the notified common car park. Hereafter, you may hire a jeep for for approximately two hours, for one single trip to and from the caves. Special ginger sherbet and herbal masala soda are sold where the jeeps stop. The herbal drinks are believed to promote wellbeing; the Kurichias of Wayanad, who inhabit the tri-junction area, are known to have long life-spans primarily because of their diet.

An adrenalin-pumping climb to the top follows the jeep ride, where the view more than makes up for the tiring ascent. Acres of green forest and hillocks stretch out in all directions, and can be viewed through a telescope.

The caves here are said to have been formed many thousands of years ago, when water flowed from the earth between the rocks. The first enclosure at the site still has a trickle of water in the corner across from the entrance.

The caves have two levels, and the drawings are only found on the second level. The paintings here throw light on tribes that might have hunted in the forests, tamed and bred animals and farmed on the hillsides. The carvings are elaborate and suggest that they were etched into the walls by several people, some of whom may have worked from platforms, given the height of the carvings. The 15 engravings found here include a prominent human figure with headgear, a few male and female figures, a human figure on a wheeled cart, what seems to be a tribal king and queen, an elephant and a deer.

Swimming pool at the beautiful Tranquil Resort

Courtesy Tranquil Resort

Heritage Museum, Ambalavayal

This museum houses various objects associated with the tribes in this region. The terracotta figurines collected from many places across Wayanad, are displayed alongside pottery dating back to the Megalithic period, and ornaments and hunting traps used by the indigenous tribes of Wayanad.

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

Sulthan Bathery boasts excellent resorts and homestays located just outside town. There are a couple of good mid-range hotels in town.

Tranquil Resort (Tel: 04936-220244, Cell: 09947588507; Tariff: ₹7,500-16,500) is a beautiful getaway set in a 400-acre coffee and pepper plantation in Kolagappara. The estate has charted out 11 treks within its own grounds, with names such as Indiana Jones and Cliffhanger. The easiest trek is the Cardamom Walk through ten acres of cardamom plantations. Braveheart, being true to its name, goes all the way uphill. The resort also offers Ayurvedic massages and a swimming pool.

Edakkal Hermitage’s cave restaurant

Saibal Das

Edakkal Hermitage (Tel: 221860, 260123, Cell: 09847001491; Tariff: ₹4,850) is built into the slopes of Ambukuthy Hill where the Edakkal Caves are located.

Orchid Resort (Tel: 262844, 264044, Cell: 09447160510; Tariff: ₹3,900-9,100) is an eco-friendly resort with good facilities, 12 km from Sulthan Bathery off NH212, en route to Lower Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary.

Wynberg Resorts (Cell: 097445-41203, 09526612111; Tariff: ₹2,400-5,500), set in the picturesque surroundings of Kuzhivayal Estate at Thrikkaipetta, is 18 km from Sulthan Bathery. Wynberg offers nine cottages, one tree-house, one tent and many games and excursions.

Hotel Great Jubilee (Tel: 222008, 225555; Tariff: ₹1,799-4,799) on NH212 offers 3-star amenities. It has a restaurant and an Ayurveda spa. Another comfortable property is Hotel Mint Flower (Tel: 227179, 227181/82; Tariff: ₹1,175-2,975) also on NH212 has air-conditioned rooms, a restaurant and coffee hut.

In Sulthan Bathery itself, The Resort (Tel: 220510-11; Tariff: ₹1,500-2,800) at Gandhi Junction, offers ten rooms, a restaurant and bar. They also have a travel desk to help with sightseeing in Wayanad. KTDC’s Hotel Pepper Grove (Tel: 221900; Tariff: ₹1,680-3,000), a good budget option near Manichuria Lake, has 19 spacious rooms. There is a restaurant and ample parking.

WHERE TO EAT

The Edakkal Hermitage, located close to the caves, has what is perhaps the only cave restaurant in India. They serve authentic Kerala cuisine, in a fascinating little cavern – a unique experience. The Mint Flower, at Chungam, has excellent seafood. The Jubilee Restaurant on NH212 is a pocketfriendly, accessible option, close to the bus stop. The joint is best known for Malappuram roast chicken and tandoori chicken. Kerala, Chinese and north Indian meals are offered at Hotel Jaya and Hotel Prince. The Resort has two restaurants: the Edakkal View and the Kabini Restaurant.

When to go In the winter months between October and February, which is best for wildlife-spotting Location At the entrance to the Lower Wayanad Sanctuary at Muthanga, near the tri-junction of Kerala, Karnaaka and Tamil Nadu, in the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve Air Nearest airport: Kozhikode Rail Nearest rail: Kozhikode