Thattekkad: Feathered Haven

Landing on the banks of the Periyar in the morning is an experience all birders would enjoy. Little river terns flit across the Periyar’s surface in fantastic aerial sorties, while pied kingfishers expertly hover overhead before plunging into the water for a well-directed catch. To the east, the Njayapilli Mountain, 1,716-ft high, cuts a dark silhouette against the early morning sky.

Thattekkad, Kerala’s first bird sanctuary, was established in 1983. It has now been renamed the Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary, in honour of the renowned ornithologist. The 25.16sq km sanctuary is cradled by the tributaries and tiny streams of the Periyar basin, and includes a part of the Bhoothathankettu Dam. With over 300 recorded species of birds, Thattekkad has been described by Dr. Ali as “the richest bird habitat in peninsular India, comparable only with the Eastern Himalaya”.

 ORIENTATION

The Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary lies across the Periyar river, at one end of the new Thattekkad bridge. The entrance gate is 50m to the left, where tickets for entering the Sanctuary can be purchased. As soon as you enter the gates at Sivakshetrapadi, steps to the right lead down towards the Animal Rehabilitation Centre, opposite which lies the Deer Park. The Taxidermic Museum is adjacent to this park.

Guides can be hired at the Assistant Wildlife Warden’s office (see Fast Facts box below) close to the bridge. Vehicles are not allowed inside the sanctuary and can be parked either outside (in which case, safety of the vehicles cannot be guaranteed) or just inside the entry gate.

The sanctuary is intercepted by the Old Munnar Road, to the east of which lies the larger part of the forest. The Forest Inspection Bungalow lies to the east as well, close to the road, while Inchathoty Village lies to the north. There are two seasonal streams in the sanctuary, the Ovunkal and the Kolambay. The latter forms the sanctuary’s easternmost boundary.

Entry Indians ₹25; Foreigners ₹100 Timings 8.00am–5.00pm Photography ₹38, Videography ₹225 Tel 0485-2588302, Cell 09495218122

There are no fixed charges for guides, but it is advisable to pay them generously. Parking is available at no extra cost.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Even if you are not passionate about birds, there is no denying the beauty of the forest, a mix of deciduous and tropical evergreen trees, and grassland vegetation. Teak, rosewood, jungle jack and red sandalwood can be found everywhere, interspersed by the huge tetrameles nudiflora (locally known as cheeni), and the rare telli, whose aromatic sap is used for making incense.

Tree-Top Symphony

The forest treetops are prone to bursting periodically into a natural symphony. The staccato alarm calls of the Malabar giant squirrel is offset by shrieking flocks of rose-ringed parakeets, flying above the canopy. Malabar grey hornbills flap loudly from tree to tree, making raucous cries, as the haunting solfeggio of the elusive Malabar shama resonates in the lush jungle. These sounds are punctuated by the calls of the piebald magpie robins, golden orioles and aggressive racket-tailed drongos, while grey jungle fowls run about comically in zig-zag patterns, the hens following – or chasing – their beaus.

Rich Mammalian Habitat

Thattekkad is also notable for its small, but rich mammalian population. Elephants migrate here seasonally, often found at Inchathotty or along the streams of Ovunkal and Kolambay. During these periods, Ovunkal carries many telltale signs of these regal behemoths – the overpowering smell of fresh elephant dung, trees that have been stripped of their bark, broken bamboo shoots and signs of mud play.

The Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary on a misty morning

These pachyderms are occasional visitors to the forests where several other mammals such as the sambar deer, the shy barking deer, the wild boar and the bonnet macaques are residents. Besides the Malabar giant squirrels, the trees are also home to another arboreal creature: the magnificent Travancore flying squirrel.

Bhoothathankettu Dam

A 15-km ride from Kothamangalam towards Edamalayar will bring you to this famous picnic spot. The Bhoothathankettu Dam is made popular by a magnificent reservoir as well as a children’s park. Another picturesque spot for the inquisitive traveller is the Edamalayar Lower Dam, 12km further.

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

There are two good options for Thattekkad; both confusingly named Hornbill though they are separate entities.

The privately-run Hornbill Camp (Kochi Tel: 0484-4012700, 2092280, Cell: 09895026679; Tariff: Rs. 6,500, with meals) is for serious birders, and is located outside the sanctuary. The cottage tents have sit-outs and ensuite bathrooms. Kayaking with guide, plantation walks and eco-tourism activities are on offer.

The Forest Department’s Hornbill Inspection Bungalow (Tariff: ₹900), with two rooms, is on the opposite bank, to the right on the Poyamkutty Road. Caretaker arranges meals on request. Or, stay at the three-storey Frogmouth Watchtower (Tariff: Indians ₹2,500, Foreigners ₹5,000), located a kilometre into the forest and perfect for spotting birds. There is one room here and the tariff is inclusive of meals and guide fee. For bookings, contact the Wildlife Warden, Idukki (Tel: 04862-232271)

In Anakkayam, 8km from Thattekkad via Kuttampuzha, is the lovely Periyar River Lodge (Kochi Tel: 0484-2588315; Cell: 09447707173, 09526100118), smack on the riverbank. The 75-year-old teakwood house is built in the traditional nalukettu style. Settle into a charu kasera (armchair) and watch the Periyar glide by. The caretaker makes Keralite meals and offers packed lunches with advance notice. The lodge also offers birdwatching in Thattekkad, various boat-tours to Bhoothathankettu and tours to Peendimedu Falls. At the time of print the lodge was undergoing renovation and likely to be functional from April 2016. Please check with the lodge before making bookings.

Kothamangalam Plantation Stay (Tel: 0485-2570717, Cell: 09388620399; Tariff: ₹10,000– 12,000, with meals), also known as Mundackal Plantation Homestay, at the sprawling Mundackal Estate on NH49 at Pindimana near Kothamangalam, is another superb option outside Thattekkad. It offers birdwatching accompanied by an experienced ornithologist, cycling, hiking, cooking classes and plantation tours.

Butterflies in Thattekkad: The Papillion Story

Colourful Butterfly

Kerala is home to more than 300 species and Thattekkad is a prime spot for these painted beauties. To spot a variety of extremely colourful butterflies, it is beneficial to check places where the sunlight never hits the ground, in the damp, along the great riverbank of the Periyar and close to the little rivulets that lead off from the main river. Here, you will find exotic breeds of butterflies such as Malabar rose, plain tiger (see photo), Southern and Western Ghats birdwing, lime butterfly, Malabar banded swallowtail, red Helen, Buddha peacock, Paris peacock, Tamil catseye, blue mormon and Malabar raven.

Kalypso Adventures offers an overnight Lowland Forest Tour from Kochi through Thattekkad, geared especially for butterfly-spotting.

Tel 0484-2092280/ 4012700, Cell 09446005066

GETTING THERE