Nothing can prepare you for Thirunelly; neither words nor pictures can capture its magnitude. It is located among spectacular environs, adding an element of natural beauty to the spiritual affairs that it thrives on. Believed to have been created by Brahma, visited through different yugas by Parashurama, Rama and Krishna, Thirunelly is the undisputed heavyweight champion of pilgrimage sites in Kerala. Thirunelly Temple is also known as ‘Thekkan Kashi’, or ‘Kashi of the South’, which reiterates its importance as a pilgrimage centre.
Although Thirunelly lies amid incredible scenery, it is devoid of the common trappings of most pilgrim towns; there are no shops selling religious paraphernalia and there is no typical by-lane called Temple Street.
The temple here deals with the enormous flow of pilgrims with an admirable efficiency. Most devotees come by evening to participate in a pooja that takes place here at night, bathe in the Papanashini Stream in the morning and leave by afternoon. It is believed that the waters of this holy stream wash away all mortal sins. Another important belief associated with the temple is that people may connect with their forefathers, by praying at the holy Pakshipathalam Rock.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Thirunelly lies 32km north of Manathavady and about 130km northeast from Kozhikode. It is nestled in the dense jungles of the Brahmagiri Hills, near the Tholpetty Wildlife Sanctuary. The road to Thirunelly abruptly ends at a square, with the massive Panchateertham Rest House to your left and steps leading up to the temple to the right. The Brahmagiri Range looms behind the temple to the north, Udayagiri, over which the sun rises, lies to the east, Narinirangimala,a mountain said to be shaped like the body of a stretching tiger, lies to the south while Karimala, so dense that it appears black, stands to the west.
Thirunelly Temple
The Thirunelly Temple wears the Brahmagiri Hill like a giant cloak. Built in the traditional Kerala Temple style of architecture, it has an inner sanctum surrounded by a tiled roof, a huge, open courtyard, and an east-facing shrine that is supported by 30 granite columns. An ancient aqueduct to the side was commissioned by a Brahmin woman to bring water from the Papanashini Stream to the temple. Steps behind the temple lead to Panchateertha Tank and Papanashini.
Dating back to the late eighth and early ninth centuries CE, the temple traces its history to the Chera King, Kulashekharan. Copper plate inscriptions from the 10th century CE point to the importance of Thirunelly in the past, and there are remains of two ancient villages in the surrounding forests. Legends, however, would have us believe that Brahma, while travelling through the serene forests of the Brahmagiri Hill, found an idol of Vishnu here. Believing this place to be the ‘Vishnuloka’, an abode of peace, he installed the idol of the deity here. He asked Vishnu to bless all those who passed by and wash away their sins. The the deity thereby, is said to have given the Papanashini Stream its powers.
Thirunelly, like Gaya in Bihar, has become the seat of receiving sacrifices for the emancipation of the dead. Over the years, it has started to conduct other rituals, such as putra kameshthi (praying for sons) and weddings. Vishu, the Malayali New Year, is celebrated on 14 and 15 April every year with great pomp, and attracts over 10,000 people. Apart from a panchavadyam performance (percussion ensemble), Kathakali and Ottantullal dances are performed within the temple precincts. On the main square, other mythological dramas are hosted.
Timings 5.30am–12.00pm; 5.30–8.00pm Tel 04935-210201 W thirunellitemple.com
TIP Men must be bare chested
Panchateertha Tank
Located on the southern side of the temple, the Panchateertha Tank is said to have been a sacred pond where waters from five rivers came together. Now, most of the water has dried up and the tank is covered by thick undergrowth. The only thing of interest is a mound at the centre, across the short stone bridge. The mound has a slab of stone with the imprint of Vishnu’s feet, called Vishnupad. A cemented path leads on through the forest to Papanashini.
Papanashini Stream
There are several stories about how the Papanashini gained its cleansing powers. One of the most interesting of them is linked to the Samudra Manthan, or churning of the celestial ocean, detailed in the Puranas and the Mahabharata. As Brahma was consecrating Vishnu’s idol at Thirunelly, Garuda tried escaping with the amrita kumbha (pot of nectar) to protect it from the asuras. It is said that drops of the amrita fell on Ujjain, Haridwar, Prayag and Nasik, sanctifying them as venues for the Kumbha Mela. After a reckless flight, Garuda arrived in Thirunelly in time for the installation of his master’s idol. As he flew over the temple, a drop of amrita fell into the stream, endowing it with amazing purifying powers. Many devotees gather here every morning for a cleansing dip. Despite the freezing water, after the initial shock, it feels quite refreshing and most people stay far longer in the pool than the requisite three dips.
Pakshipathalam
It is believed that after his aerial circumambulation, Garuda perched on Karimala, where you can see a small rocky projection shaped in the form of an eagle today. The rock is called Garudapara, because it is believed that Garuda, the King of Birds, stands guard over his subjects from here. An avian paradise, Pakshipathalam is a natural rock cave at the northern end of the Brahmagiri Hills, about 7km away from Thirunelly. The only way to get here is to trek through the dense jungle, which takes at least three hours. It is possible to carry camping equipment and hire forest guides for a prolonged stay, but most people make the journey, to and from Pakshipathalam, in a day. About 4km into the trek from Thirunelly lies a tower which works as an excellent perch for bird-watching.
In order to trek here, special permission has to be obtained from the Forest Department in North Wayanad, Mananthavady (Tel: 04935-240233). The DTPC Office at Kalpetta (Tel: 04936-202134) arranges tours for groups of 10, which includes food, entrance charges, guide fee and transport.
Be warned that Pakshipathalam is not accessible in the monsoons, because the path becomes obscure, the trail slippery and the forest teems with leeches and cold, irritated animals of varying sizes and appetites. It is also off limits from February to June due to the danger of sudden forest fires.
Tholpetty WLS
Tholpetty Wildlife Sanctuary, 13km from Thirunelly, lies adjacent to the Lower Sanctuary of Muthanga, near Sultan Bathery. Together, the two areas constitute the Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary. Although Tholpetty boasts of 900 elephants, spotted deer, bison and bear, it does not feature heavily on most wildlife circuit tours. As a result, it offers an untouched, natural quality and more chances to spot wild animals.
Vehicles may travel up to 20km into the forest, and you may hire a guide at the entrance. The park is closed during the monsoons because the trails become too slushy. August is also a crowded time to visit, with many tourists making the rounds for Onam.
The Forest Department has two-hour jeep safaris to the park from 7.00–9.00am and 3.00 –5.00pm.
Entry ₹10 Guide Charges ₹50 Timings 6.00–8.00am; 3.00–5.30pm Tel 04935-250853
WHERE TO STAY AND EAT
The best hotel in the Upper Wayanad region is Pachyderm Palace (Cell: 09946564659, 09847044688; Tariff: ₹3,000–4,500), located opposite the entrance to Tholpetty Sanctuary. The hotel has six rooms and two tree houses, a restaurant, and arranges trekking in and visits to Tholpetty. Wild Life Resorts (Cell: 09946564659, 09744770500; Tariff: ₹4,500) is also an option that is close to the sanctuary.
Simple Thirunelly Panchateertham Devaswom’s Rest House (Tel: 210055, Cell: 07034231201; Tariff: ₹200–750) is the other stay option in Thirunelly. It is a four-floor establishment, with two floors hidden from view at a subterranean level. Charges are ₹200 a room and ₹750 each for the three VIP rooms, which come equipped with a sofa, heater, fan, table and chair. There’s no attached restaurant but tea and meals will be brought to your room if you ask. The rush at the counter might unnerve you but once you enter your room and close the door, it’s bliss. KTDC has a Tamarind Easy Hotel (Tel: 04935-210475, Cell: 09447739472; Tariff: ₹1,600, dorm ₹3,000) in Thirunelly, offering 10 rooms, a dorm and a restaurant near the temple. Also nearby is the pretty Agraharaam Resort (Cell: 09048797195, 07560909777; Tariff: ₹3,500–5,500). You may also choose from Jungle Retreat (Cell: 097425 65333, 09742564333; Tariff: ₹3,000) or Koomankally Heritage Villa (Cell: 09747606780, 099469517575; Tariff: ₹3,000).
The Manasa Saras Elite Tourist Home (Tel: 240236, 240408-09; Tariff: ₹1,000–1,500) is an old establishment half a kilometre from Mananthavady on the Thalassery Road, with nine rooms, a restaurant, room service, attached bath, hot water and TV in a few rooms. Fringe Ford Estate (Bengaluru Tel: 080-26722750, Cell: 09880086411, 09845826411; Tariff: ₹4,500 per person, with meals), Hotel Brahmagiri (Tel: 246981-83, Cell: 09388791018; Tariff: ₹1,500–2,000); and Nature Inn Homestay (Cell: 09747606780; Tariff: ₹3,000) are some of the other good places to stay in this region. There are very few eating joints in Thirunelly. KTDC’s Tamarind Easy Hotel serves both vegetarian and non-vegetarian. Vishnu Padam and Nambisan both offer strictly vegetarian fare, restricted to dosas and chappathi-peas. They also offer thalis for breakfast, lunch and dinner. For non-vegetarian meals, try the Asbe Restaurant in Mananthavady, whose menu boasts of chicken, fish and mutton dishes, ghee rice and Kerala porotta. The food is home-cooked, the service fast and there is ample parking space in front of the restaurant. Another well-known joint in Mananthavady is Century Restaurant, which offers basic Indian food at comfortable rates.
At Pulpally, which lies between Sultan Bathery and Thirunelly, the Hotel Meriya offers Kozhi curry, chappathi, chicken and mutton biryani at incredible rates. The seedy entrance, with metal ladder leading to the restaurant, disguises its hospitality. Request for extra rice will be answered with a giant mound of local red rice.
AROUND THIRUNELLY
Thrissilery (10km)
A little way off Mananthavady, heading north from Kyasapura, is the Thrissilery village, which houses a beautiful temple. The main deity at the Thrissilery Temple is Lord Shiva. There is an obscure mythology that places his head here and his leg at Thirunelly. Other myths and legends also connect this temple with the Thirunelly Temple; it is said that the ancestral rites performed at Thirunelly are incomplete without touching base at Thrissilery.
This wonderfully proportionate and architecturally sound temple is meant to be experienced along a complex circumambulatory drill marked by faded arrows. There are also smaller shrines around it dedicated to Jaladurga, Parvati and Subramanya.
Timings 5.30am–1.00pm; 5.00– 8.00pm Best Time to Visit Mahashivaratri in March
Tel 04935250325
TIP Men must be bare chested
Kuruvadweep: Your Very Own Island Getaway
This delta, on the River Kabini, is a protected area of 950 acres, which lies 17km to the east of Mananthavady. The island is surrounded and nurtured by tributaries of the River Kabini, untouched by human settlement, other than the Katunayika tribe.
Reminding one of the dense, untouched forest-settings written by Rudyard Kipling in The Jungle Book, this island lies in the middle of shallow waters, full of marshes and streams. It is home to many species of plants, animals and birds, and its unique geography and ecology make it an ideal setting for several rare and endangered species. Kuruvadweep is made for quiet getaways, far from urban crowds, full of long jungle trails for quiet walks and spotting animals.
As a result, entrance to this island is monitored closely by the Vana Samrakshana Samiti of the Forest Department of Kerala, and passes issued by this Samiti are mandatory to get in here. Some hotels, such as the Green Gates Hotel in Kalpetta also organise tours to Kuruvadweep.
Sugata Srinivasraju
FAST FACTS
When to go The best time to visit is from September to May. The areas in and around Thirunelly can be avoided during the monsoons, from June to August, when the rains make the trails slippery and the forests teem with leeches. Pakshipathalam is best avoided from February to June as well, on account of sudden forest fires
Tourist Offices, District Forest Officer, North Wayanad, Mananthavady, Tel: 04935-240233, Cell: 09447979074
District Tourism Promotion Council, Civil Station, Kalpetta North, Tel: 04936-202134, Cell: 09446072134
(For trekking, camping, adventure tours, forest walks, wildlife trekking tours and hotel reservations)
Tourist Information Office
Collectorate, North Kalpetta, Tel: 255207, STD code 04935
GETTING THERE
District Wayanad
Location Thirunelly, 34km from Mananthavady in Upper Wayanad, lies on the southern side of the Brahmagiri Hills on the Kerala-Karnataka border
Distance 140km NE of Kozhikode
Route from Kozhikode NH212 to Kalpetta via Kunnamangalam, Thamarassery and Vythiri; state roads to Thirunelly via Kaniyambetta, Cherukattur, Mananthavady and Kartikulam
Air Nearest Airport: Karipur International Airport, Kozhikode (166km/5hrs). Prepaid taxis cost ₹3,500–4,000
Rail Nearest Railhead: Mysore (120km/ 3hrs). Taxi to Thirunelly costs ₹2,500–3,000
Road Thirunelly lies some way off NH212 that connects Kozhikode to Kollegal via Mysore (120km). From Kozhikode, take NH212 up the Thamarassery Ghat Pass to Kalpetta via Lakkidi and Vythiri. At Kalpetta, turn left to Mananthavady. Thirunelly is 34km from here, just off the road to Kodagu via Kartikulam. Tholpetty Sanctuary is 13km from Thirunelly via Kartikulam, on the road to Kodagu District in Karnataka
Bus Buses from Mananthavady’s KSRTC Bus Stand (Tel: 04935-240240) on NH212 go to Thirunelly and other places in Kerala, as well as neighbouring states