Zanskar, with its minimal roads and spectacular moonscapes, offers the best trekking in Ladakh, from 3- to 20-day treks over the high passes north to Lamayuru, westward into the Vale of Kashmir or south to Himachal’s Lahaul valley. Trekking is also the only way to get to some of the remote monasteries, such as Mune and Phugtal. Many Leh operators organise well supported treks through Zanskar. If attempting the trek alone, it’s best to take a guide along these trails. Ask at the Marq Hotel or Tourist Rest House in Padum. If you’ve got more stuff than you can carry, you can also hire a horse in Padum.
But some of the best trekking experiences are along with the Snow Leopard Conservancy’s Himalayan Homestays programme (Website: himalayan-homestays.com), which organises treks with stay in Zanskari village homes along the route. The homestay programme is a boon to travellers in a region which has very little by way of facilities. A popular circuit is Padum to Pidmo — Padum-Karsha (6 km/2 hrs)-Zangla (28 km/7 hrs)-Pidmo (7 km/2½ hrs). The trail follows the course of the Zanskar River on the Zanskar plain, and is level in most parts. The Himalayan Homestays along the Zanskar River route are at Pidmo, Pishu and Karsha villages.
Another well-supported trek is the 6- day Lugnak trail that follows the eastern bank of the Tsarap River. This trail is quite a contrast to the previous one. There’s no flat land here — the spectacular trail runs along the steep, rocky gorge of the Tsarap (Lugnak) river, an age-old trade route between Zanskar and Lahaul in Himachal. Villages en route are perched on small ledges high above the river. Himalayan Homestays on this route are at Anmu, Ichar, Cha, Reru and Dorzang.
The 4-5 day Zanskar-Sham trek north across the Zanskar Range has stays at Karsha, Zangla, Pidmo and Pishu.
In the pages that follow, we cover two of Zanskar’s most popular treks. The trail from Padum to Darcha in Himachal Pradesh, just north of Jispa on the Manali-Leh highway. The trek crosses high passes on the Zanskar Range and affords some of the most spectacular Himalayan scenery. Then we walk along the Zanskar Chadar from Chilling to Nimmu near Leh, a trek undertaken in mid-winter when the Zanskar freezes up between end-January and early February.
TIP Rafting down the Zanskar River is another exciting option to explore this remote and spectacular region.