Known as the ‘Munh Maangi Muraaden Poori Karne Wali Mata’, Goddess Vaishno Devi is believed to fulfil all the longings of human life — dharma (righteousness), artha (material gains), kama (satisfaction) and moksha (enlightenment). It is a very personal need that draws the pilgrim to the Vaishno Devi shrine, and many come again and again, for requests or as thanksgiving for the mother’s blessings. Whatever the reason, it is believed that the visit to Vaishno Devi happens only because maa aap bulaandi — the mother herself calls. This unshakeable conviction is shared by every one of the hundreds of thousands of yatris. One just has to take one step and the rest of the journey just follows by her divine grace.
It’s believed that Goddess Vaishnavi took birth in human form in the house of Ratnakar Pandit, in Rameswaram in South India. She wished to marry Lord Vishnu, who had taken birth in his incarnation as Lord Ram. At this time, Ram was in exile, and Sita had been abducted to Lanka. Vaishnavi approached him. He promised to marry her on his return from Lanka with Sita, provided Vaishnavi could recognise him. When she failed to do so (as he was disguised as an old hermit), he asked her to wait for Kaliyug on Trikuta Mountain. As he resided in every human being, Lord Ram said he would visit her as part of every devotee who came to see her. And when all of humanity had taken her blessings, he would marry her in his Kalki avatar. The goddess waits to this day.
In search of Trikuta, the goddess appeared as a child to a Brahmin named Shreedhar, and asked him to arrange for a bhandara or mighty feast. Shreedhar was poor but by the goddess’ grace, the bhandara was successfully conducted and hugely attended. One of the guests at the feast was Bhairon. He was the disciple of Gorakhnath, a spiritual master of Tantra, who wished to test the devi’s righteousness and virtue. Bhairon tried to force Vaishnavi into serving the guests alcohol and non-vegetarian food. She refused and escaped to continue her journey, with Bhairon in pursuit. Two guards, Veer and Langoor, accompanied her. En route, she fired an arrow to quench the thirst of her guards. This spring of water is the Banganga River. The imprints of the goddess’ feet are worshipped at Charan Paduka, where she stayed for sometime en route to the holy cave.
Thereafter, the goddess settled herself in Adkuwari, in a womb-shaped cave, which came to be known as Garbha Joon. She meditated here for nine months. But Bhairon followed her here too. She pierced her way out with her trident, and escaped to the holy cave where she now resides. When Bhairon refused to heed her warnings, she took the form of Mahakali and severed his head, which fell on a neighbouring mountain. Bhairon, seeing her in the form of the Divine Mother, begged to be forgiven. Seeing his repentance, Ma Vaishno Devi forgave him. For his devotion, she granted him a place near her abode before discarding her human form and changing herself into a rock. She also promised him that a journey to her shrine would be complete only if the pilgrim visited the temple to him on the nearby hill. This is the Bhairon Mandir.
The holy cave at Bhavan itself is like a tunnel, at the end of which the mother has revealed herself in a natural rock form called pindi. It is believed that Shreedhar Pandit discovered the cave 700 years ago when the Mata revealed the directions to him in a dream. Before the formation of the Shri Mata Vaishno Devi Shrine Board in 1986, the shrine was controlled by a private trust. The chief priest is a descendant of Shreedhar Pandit’s family.
THE YATRA
Vaishno Devi is one of the cleanest and best maintained kshetras in India. At various points along the yatra, there are two routes to the holy cave to choose from — the old one has steep steps, the newer main track has a much gentler gradient. Heart patients and asthmatics are advised to climb only on the main track. Basic conveniences like toilets have been set up on the main track at regular intervals and they are well-maintained. The time taken for the yatra itself depends on the fitness and enthusiasm levels of the pilgrim, as well as the weather and the crowds. It is good to plan for at least two days for a return journey, but the yatra can be completed in a day during the lean period. The 12-km long walking path is wide, paved and well-maintained. The entry is from the Darshani Deodhi (entrance). There is a view of the entire Trikuta Mountain from this point, which is a kilometre away from the Katra Bus Stand, and can be reached on foot or by autorickshaw. There’s a car park at the bus stand. The Shrine Board also runs an hourly bus service from the bus stand to the Darshani Deodhi. After the checkpost comes a small bridge under which flows the River Banganga. Some pilgrims take a dip in the Banganga, where ghats have been built, before proceeding along the yatra track.
About 1½ km from the Banganga River is the Charan Paduka — imprints of the Mata’s feet on a rock slab. Thus, symbolically, one can take the mother’s blessings at the start of the journey.
At Indraprastha, 5 km from Banganga, an alternate track to Bhavan (the hilltop site) has been built. This is wider, cleaner and has a gentler gradient, and bypasses Adkuwari, which is 500m from Indraprastha on the older route. For those who do stop at Adkuwari, a subway is available to the new/alternate track.
Fluttering flags and the temple spires of Adkuwari can be seen much before actually reaching the halfway mark on the yatra. This is where the Mata meditated in a cave known as Garbha Joon for nine months. Since the cave is very narrow, only one person can pass through it at a time. Doing this is considered a recharging experience, but not more than 4,000 pilgrims can pass through this cave in 24 hrs, so numbers are provided to 50 pilgrims at a time.
From Adkuwari onwards, there are two tracks. The old one passes via Himkoti (the most scenic spot), Haathi Mattha (so named because of the steep climb), and Sanjhhi Chhat (which is the highest point at 5,200 ft), from where it is a 3-km downhill walk to Bhavan. At Bhavan, one crosses a small patio-like structure. On the right is the way to the original cave. Since this is very narrow, it remains closed when the crowd is larger than 8,000 pilgrims on a given day.
In the holy cave, it is believed that the pilgrim also has darshan of 330 million gods and goddesses, who have at some time visited the mother goddess. They are all believed to be present during the morning and evening aarti. At the entrance, on the left, is the symbol of Ganesh, and adjacent to him are Surya and Chandra Dev. It is believed that the 14-foot-long rock here is Bhairon’s torso.
The legendary River Charan Ganga flows by the feet of the mother, and pilgrims have their feet washed by the holy waters as they move closer towards the goddess. About 20 ft down, the cave flares out, and the entire weight of the rock appears to rest on an image of the many headed-serpent Sheshnag. Just below Sheshnag is the havan kund and by the side are the sacred symbols of shankh (conch), chakra (disc), gada (mace) and padma (lotus). Further down is Sher ka Panja, which symbolises the lion, the goddess’ mount.
Two new tunnels facilitate the movement of larger crowds. After crossing the original cave, the pilgrim walks through a corridor where many bells have been suspended from the ceiling. Further down is a broad platform, upon which a life-size idol of the Mother has been enshrined. At the end of the tunnel is the raised marble platform on which the Mother has revealed herself in a natural rock formation. There are no statues, pictures, or idols inside. The pindi to the extreme left is worshipped as Saraswati, the supreme energy of creation. This is whitish in colour. In the middle is a somewhat yellow pindi of Lakshmi, the supreme energy of maintenance. The black pindi on the right is known to be of Ma Kali, the supreme energy of dissolution. Ma Vaishno Devi is considered to be an incarnation of these three energies. One only gets a glimpse as the queue is long and pilgrims are required to keep moving, but it is a moment that remains with the devotee for a lifetime.
The various idols and ornaments donated by different kings were earlier placed in the cave, but after the formation of the Shrine Board Trust, these have been reduced in order to offer a more satisfying darshan for pilgrims. Just outside the exit is Amritkund, where the water flowing from the holy cave collects. Pilgrims collect the water in bottles to carry home. Chunnis (scarves) and chola (attire), and gold and silver coins, offered and blessed, are also available as prasad and souvenirs in a shop run by the trust. Another souvenir shop is located at the Katra Bus Stand.
The Bhairon Mandir is 1.4 km away from the holy cave. It is reached by another steep climb, which can be done by foot, or on ponies and palanquins. The rock deity here symbolises the severed head of Bhairon Baba. The ash from the havan kund here is believed to provide protection from untoward happenings and ailments.
Timings The shrine is open round-the-clock throughout the year. The cave is closed for darshan for 2 hrs, for aarti at sunrise and sunset Darshan There is no fee for darshan, but special darshan is possible in the Shraddha Suman Vishesh Pooja Aarti. This costs ₹16,000 for one, ₹31,000 for two, ₹46,000 for three and ₹75,000 for five persons. The cost includes aarti darshan, stay at Niharika Complex, Katra and Bhavan, three meals and prasad. Reservations can be made at Niharika or through the shrine website (maavaishno devi.org). Daily havans are performed near the cave. A family of five can participate by paying ₹5,100. There is also an option whereby the devotee may not be physically present and the poojan is performed in his name along with names from his family (maximum 5 names can be given). This costs ₹1,100.
The most important festivals marked at the shrine are Chaitra Navratra (Mar-Apr) and Sharad Navratra (Sep-Oct) when the Shat Chandi Yagna is organised for world peace and the prosperity of mankind. Diwali is also celebrated with great fervour.
WHERE TO STAY AND EAT
After Katra, no private accommodation is available for the yatra. Pilgrims must contact the SMVDSB Office for reservations for places to stay. Dormitory beds are also available. The best way to book rooms is to send a demand draft to any of the SMVDSB offices after checking availability over telephone. Bookings can also be made on the board’s official website maavaishnodevi.org.
The Shrine Board has two facilities next to the Jammu Railway Station, : the Vaishnavi Dham and Saraswati Dham (Tel: 0191-2473270/ 75; Tariff: ₹980-1,350; dorm bed ₹90). At Katra, the board has two guest houses, Niharika and Shakti Bhawan (Tel: 01991-234053; Tariff: ₹ 750-1,350; dorm bed ₹ 90). Facilities on the hilltop are at the Bhavan (Tariff: ₹750-1,800, dorm bed ₹120), Adkuwari and Sanjhhi Chhat (Tariff: ₹600; dorm bed ₹90). Bookings can be made at the board offices at Niharika Complex next to the Katra Bus Stand.
At the Bhavan, the yatris are provided blankets against a deposit. Free accommodation is in a big hall where the blanket has to be used as mattress. The common toilets are very clean. In fact, accommodation provided by the Shrine Board is clean and spacious.
In Katra, the yatris also have the option of staying at one of the many private hotels there. Prices vary from day to day, and rates are negotiable. Try Hotel Asia (Tel: 01991-232061; Tariff: ₹4,000-5,500), Hotel Vaishno Devi (Tel: 233301; Tariff: ₹2,999-6,599), Hotel Tridev (Tel: 232108; Tariff: ₹800-3,000) and Hotel Subhash (Tel: 232055; Tariff: ₹600-1,800).
About one km before Katra town, off Katra-Reasi Road, lies Hotel White (Tel: 234634/ 26; Tariff: ₹4,600-9,000) with 195 rooms, fine dining restaurant, swimming pool, spa, gym and beautiful valley views. Country Inn & Suites (Mobile: 09906060551; Tariff: ₹5,500-12,000), on the Jammu-Katra Highway, is another luxurious property with all the mod-cons.
Vegetarian food is available in Katra and all along the route. The Shrine Board runs no-profit, no-loss food counters in Bhavan.
TIP Smoking and drinking are strictly prohibited during the entire yatra
Preparing for the yatra
When to go The yatra is open throughout the year. Peak crowds are seen in the summer months of May, June and July, and during the festive period of the Navratras (Mar-Apr and Sep-Oct). Year-end/ New Year vacations in December also have huge crowds. Comfortable darshan may not be possible at such times, and devotees often have to wait 12-20 hrs. On any day, a maximum of 20,000-22,000 people are allowed to have darshan. When the crowds peak, pilgrims have to wait for their turn in Katra. One good way to plan your journey is to log on to maavaishnodevi.org, and check the flow of visitors. If the inflow is less than 15,000 persons on a given day, then the trip can be expected to be comfortable.
Security Devotees should co-operate with the security personnel; regulation and checking is rigorous. The route is also prone to landslides and devotees should listen carefully for directions from the authorities. Loudspeakers have been provided for announcements all along the route.
Registration Upon arrival in Katra (2,500 ft), pilgrims must register at the 24/7 Registration Counter at the Katra Bus Stand. No one is allowed to cross the first checkpoint without the white registration slip, which is valid for 6 hrs. If the crowd is very large, then red/ pink waiting slips are issued, which in turn help in securing final registration. A second Yatra Registration Counter has been set up on Udhampur Road, 1 km from the main bus stand. Children below 10 years of age do not require a yatra slip.
Checkposts About 500m from the Darshani Deodhi is the first checkpost and mobile phones, video cameras and other electronic equipment are not allowed beyond this point. The yatra slip is checked at the second checkpost, and a valid yatra slip is a must for making the journey.
Cloakrooms are available free of charge. The Shri Mata Vaishno Devi Shrine Board (SMVDSB) has a cloakroom at the Niharika Complex near the bus stand. Many shops en route also double as cloakrooms.
Ponies, palanquins, porters Many pilgrims prefer to do the trek on foot but ponies (₹1,400), palanquins (₹4,000-4,500) and pithus (porters; ₹700) are available for those who are unable to walk the distance to the shrine. All fares are from Katra to Bhavan and back. These should be hired from official counters next to the Darshani Deodhi, at the beginning of the yatra.
Food, water and other essentials are available en route.
Helicopter services are provided by Pawan Hans and Global Vectra from Katra to Sanjhhi Chhat. One way fare for the 8-min flight is ₹800 per person. The helipad is 2 km from Katra Bus Stand and Bhavan is approx 2½ km from Sanjhhi Chhat helipad.
Electric vehicles ply from Adkuwari (halfway, at 6 km; fare ₹300, return ₹200 per person), but as there are few vehicles, the facility is used mainly by the old and the sick. The road is well-lit so yatris can travel in safety throughout the night, and many prefer to walk at night to avoid the heat, especially in summer.
Online services are available on the Shrine Board website maavaishnodevi.org for yatra registration, accommodation, poojan and helicopter bookings.
FAST FACTS
Yatra and Tourist Offices
In Katra
Shri Mata Vaishno Devi Shrine Board
Director, Operations, Central Office, Katra, Tel: 01991-234124, Website: maavaishnodevi.org
Office of the In-charge: Shakti Bhawan, Niharika Complex, Tel: 232281, 232125, Enquiry and Reservations, Tel: 234053 (24 hours), Yatra Registration Counter Tel: 232092
In Jammu
Office of the In-charge, Vaishnavi Dham, Railhead Complex, Tel: 0191-2473275
Office of the In-charge, Saraswati Dham, Railhead Complex, Tel: 0191-2473270
Director Tourism : JK Tourism, Tourist Reception Centre, Vir Marg, Jammu Tawi, Telefax: 0191-2520409, 2548358, Website: jktourism.org, STD codes Katra 01991, Jammu 0191
GETTING THERE
Location The holy cave of Mata Vaishno Devi is located in the folds of three mountains called Trikuta, at an altitude of 5,200 ft in the north-western Himalaya
Distances 12 km NE of Katra, 62 km NE of Jammu JOURNEY TIME By Road 1½ hrs from Jammu + 5-6 hrs on foot
Route from Jammu NH1A to Domel; district road to Katra; trek to Vaishno Devi
Air Nearest airport: Jammu (50 km/1½ hrs to Katra), connected to Srinagar, Leh, Delhi and Mumbai by Air India, SpiceJet, Indigo, Jet Airways and Go Air. Taxis charge ₹800-1,000 to Katra
Rail Nearest railhead: Jammu Tawi (50 km/1½ hrs to Katra); Buses for Katra available just outside the station (2-2½ hrs/ ₹50). Buses also available at the main Jammu Bus Stand, 1 km away
Road From Jammu City, take NH1A north towards Srinagar. At Domel, 30 km ahead, the road bifurcates; the right heads towards Srinagar, the left fork to Katra. Outstation travellers can take the Kunjwani Bypass, 10 km before Jammu, on NH1A (which runs south to Jalandhar and thereon to Delhi). Buses are available for Katra and Jammu from all major destinations in northern India. Roads are hilly but in excellent condition. Be prepared for security checks