Vythiri: Rainforest Getaway

There are very few places that can offer a holistic experience, combining wilderness with responsible eco-tourism and the comforts of a modern holiday; the district of Wayanad is one of them. This region offers plenty to do for all kinds of visitors.

At first, Vythiri may seem very similar to all little towns tucked into the valleys of the Western Ghats. The little town will welcome you with its thatched and slanting roofed houses, perhaps drench you in the all too common downpours and soothe you with its moderate temperatures. It is known for being the least populated district in Kerala, a fact which becomes clear from the silence of the hills around town.

THING TO SEE AND DO

Vythiri’s untouched natural wealth holds within its folds the opportunity for a quiet retreat and restful time off. There are also a number of attractions in the vicinity, like the neighbouring little hill station of Lakkidi and Pookode Lake, and plenty of luxury resorts.

Soochippara and Kanthampara Falls

Travelling to the waterfalls is, in many ways, a perfect summary of Wayanad. The 28-km drive along serpentine roads through lush tea plantations and picturesque settings will carry you from Vythiri to the end of the motorable road near Soochippara. Tickets may be have to bbe purchased where the road ends, and your vehicle can be parked here as well. Hereafter, a 1.5-km walk will bring you to the Sentinel Waterfalls. The three-tiered Soochippara Falls, makes for an attractive sight. The waterfalls cascade down from a height of 200 m to the main pool, which is usually the main attraction for tourists. As this area can become slippery, especially when it rains, it is advisable to wear proper shoes with a good grip.

Clear waters of Pookode Lake

Prashant Panjiar

Adjacent to Soochippara, on the rocky side, are the Kanthanpara Falls. Smaller and a bit quieter than Soochippara, at about 30-m high, they make an ideal picnic spot. To avoid exhaustion from a steep climb on the way back, try the amlas (gooseberries) marinated in a special salty syrup that are offered by the makeshift shops along the route: they will instantly rejuvenate you.

Lakkidi

Lakkidi, one of the highest points of the Wayanad District at almost 3,000 ft above sea level, is known as the ‘Gateway of Wayanad’ because of its location at the crest of the Thamarassery Ghat Pass. Most tourists stop by here from Vythiri (5 km away) and Kalpetta (14 km away) for the gorgeous views and incredible photography, while some stay on at the expensive luxury resorts in the area. It is worth knowing that the valley view area is sometimes visited by hordes of monkeys, though the locals swear that they are quite well-behaved!

Another interesting sight is the Chain Tree, a giant ficus tree bound to the ground by chains. Located by the side of the road from Vythiri to Lakkidi, the Chain Tree is part of an interesting story of an adivasi youth named Karinthandan, who guided a British engineer through the difficult terrain into Wayanad from Calicut. Eager to take the credit for the discovery, the engineer killed his guide. The young boy’s spirit is said to have haunted the place in a vengeful rage, until a priest chained it to this tree. The story is, in some ways, an elaborate metaphor of British dominion, hints of which can still be seen all over Kerala almost 70 years after Independence.

An aerial view of the lush Lakkidi hill station

Prashant Panjiar

Pookode Lake

Pookode Lake lies on the way back to Vythiri from Lakkidi, around 3 km from the valley view area. A motorable road off the main road leads to the lake, which is sometimes crowded with hundreds of holidaying families. Most tourists stick to the picnic area, which also offers boating and kayaking. There is also an aquarium in the lake complex. The walkway around the lake offers a welcome relief from the melee.

Another attraction at Pookode Lake is the Uruvu Eco Shop, which carries a large number of products made out of 24 varieties of bamboo, made mostly by the tribal women in the area. They also sell gift packets of spices, pickles and forest honey. You can also ask to visit their factory, 26 km away, on the way to the Soochippara Falls. The factory is full of creative experimentation with new products and designs.

Chembra Peak

This peak is visible from most areas around Vythiri. At 2,100 m above sea level, Chembra Peak is the tallest summit in the region. While locals claim that one needs four hours to reach the summit from the base camp, for the uninitiated city-bred climber it could take fairly longer, especially as the climb is often steep and slippery. For this reason, travellers are advised to start early. About twothirds of the way up lies a beautiful, clear lake, shaped quite distinctively like a heart. This offers a brief respite, temporarily erasing the exhaustion of the climb. It is also possible to hire a guide from the DTPC office and trek to the peak on your own, as long as you have a permit from the Forest Department at Meppadi (Tel: 04936-282001; ₹ 750 for up to five people).

Rustic cottages blend well with the forest, Vythiri Resort

Sanjoy Ghosh

WHERE TO STAY

There are a number of places that you can choose in and around Vythiri, depending on the size of your wallet. At the top-end is undoubtedly the Vythiri Resort (Tel: 04936-255366, 256800, Cell: 09287221130; Tariff:

₹13,000-30,000). Situated a few kilometres from the main road, the approach to the resort is rugged and unpaved. It is spread across 150 acres in the middle of thick rainforests. The resort has both villas and treehouses. There is a natural swimming pool, a hanging bridge, an Ayurveda spa and a health club. It even has its own trekking routes.

Jungle Park Resorts (Cell: 09847448448, 09847447447; Tariff: ₹5,500-11,500) in Finster Hills offers Ayurvedic treatments, hammocks, trekking, birdwatching, elephant safaris, horse rides, trekking villages and sightseeing tours to the Upper and Lower Wayanad wildlife sanctuaries, Pazhassi Raja’s tomb, Kuruvadweep, Pakshipathalam, Edakkal Caves, Thusharagiri Falls, Chembra Peak, Meenmutty Falls, Pookode Lake and the Thirunelly Temple.

Ente Veedu (Tel: 04935-220008, 320494, Cell: 09847511437; Tariff: ₹2,500-4,000) is a new homestay located near the geographical heart of Wayanad in Panamaram, 15 km north of Kalpetta. The Colonial style home is set amidst coffee and pepper plantations and paddy fields. Ente Veedu, meaning ‘my home’ in Malayalam, takes pride in offering home-style Malabar hospitality. There are four rooms in the main house, plus a bamboo hut, which has two bedrooms, and an open sitting room. Meals are made from farm fresh ingredients. A small kitchenette is at hand for those who want to cook for themselves. An Ayurvedic massage and a nature tour through vanilla, pepper, coffee and cardamom plantations can be arranged.

Traditional cottage, Rain Country Resorts

Sanjoy Ghosh

In Lakkidi, the beautiful Rain Country Resorts (Tel: 04936-329798-99, Cell: 09946487771; Tariff: ₹4,500-7,500) has a natural pool in its front garden, perfect for lazy swims. Set amidst hills, this hotel incorporates the beauty of its setting into its design. The cosy cottages have elegantly appointed bathrooms lit with natural light. Apart from lots of indoor and outdoor games, they also arrange fishing expeditions and sightseeing around Lower Wayanad.

The cottages and tree huts of Stream Valley Cottages (Tel: 255860, Cell: 09447183436; Tariff: ₹2,500-3,000) are very inviting. The traditional Kerala-style cottages are built on stilts, with thatched bamboo roofs, each with its own little garden. Kerala meals are served from the central kitchen.

Nearby Kalpetta also offers some excellent hotels. Green Gates Tel: 202001-04, Cell: 09447640559; Tariff: ₹3,500-6,750, with two meals) boasts both rooms and cottages, a tree-house, a swimming pool, gym and library. The hotel arranges trekking, rock-climbing and sight-seeing all over Wayanad. Hotel Haritagiri (Tel: 203145, Cell: 09447358118; Tariff:  ₹1,700-4,500), 2 km from Green Gates, is where you will find a bar and two restaurants, besides accommodation. The hotel has 27 rooms and six cottages and also offers a swimming pool. There’s a huge outdoor play area for children here. Ayurvedic treatments, Internet and sightseeing tours of Wayanad are other facilities on offer. Next in line would be The Woodlands (Tel: 202547, 203677, 207156; Tariff: ₹1,154-3,600) with 33 rooms, restaurants, Ayurvedic massage and a travel desk.

Al fresco seating at the pretty café at Green Gates

Sanjoy Ghosh

Royal Palm Resort (Tel: 206096, 206224, Cell: 09447143124; Tariff: ₹1,700-4,500) has a villa and seven cottages, a restaurant, a swimming pool, an Ayurvedic treatment centre, a beauty parlour, trekking, boating and outdoor games. Hotel Affas (Tel: 205185, Cell: 094472-34024; Tariff:  ₹1,000-1,500) near Kalpetta’s bus stand offers 30 budget rooms and a restaurant.

WHERE TO EAT

Most hotels and resorts in and around Vythiri offer multi-cuisine fare. One of the more highly recommended restaurants here is Coffee Grove, located on the way to Pookode Lake, offering freshly prepared Indian food, with fast and congenial service. Rain Country and the Vythiri Resort are well known for their authentic Malabar cuisine. Rain Country uses fresh vegetables from its kitchen garden, while the restaurant at Vythiri Resort serves delicious food on a banana leaf, offering fluffy appams to offset spicy Malabar chicken and Mangalorean fish curries. Top it all off with payasam to truly complete the experience.

Kalpetta, nearby, has more options. Hotel Pankaj, attached to the PPS Tourist home, and Haritagiri offer authentic Malabar cuisine. The latter also offers Mughlai, north-Indian and Chinese food. They are also the only bars here which offer a family ambience as well. New Form Restaurant offers a wide range of cuisines and dishes, but is best known for its Malabar-style biryani. For a quick bite near the bus station, stop by Kalpana Restaurant, which has excellent and authentic Kerala fare.

Keralite dishes served on a plantain leaf

Saibal Das

When to go While it rains for most of the year in the rainforests of Wayanad, May to September are the really wet months. It never gets too cold, but it is advisable to carry a jacket or a pullover to be on the safer side. Location Tucked into the Lower Wayanad Hills, just above the Thamarassery Ghat Pass Air Nearest airport: Kozhikode Rail Nearest rail: Kozhikode