Vythiri: Rainforest Hideaway

There are very few places that can offer a holistic experience, combining wilderness with responsible, eco-tourism and the comforts of a modern holiday, and the Wayanad District is one of them. A confluence where the needs of the body, mind and soul are met, this region offers plenty to do for all kinds of travellers. Treks through the mountains offer many experiences, from bathing under waterfalls while balancing on sharp rocks to simply sitting back to experience the natural symphony of wild calls in the forests. The tea and coffee plantations, as well as producers of spices, vanilla and exotic oils, offer a more manicured setting for a holiday.

Legends, imbued in stories and often coloured with history, can be found in every corner – at local chai shops and historical monuments and sometimes told by trekking guides around the campfire. All these offerings come alongside the sumptuous Malabar cuisine, served in nearly all restaurants. Wayanad, in Malayalam, means ‘paddy country’, but there are few traces of paddy that can be found here. So, in true sense, one can expect the unexpected on a trip here.

At the offset, Vythiri may seem like any other little town tucked in the valleys of the Western Ghats. The town will welcome you with its thatched and slanting-roofed houses, perhaps drench you in the all-too- common rainfall and soothe you with its moderate temperatures. But its untouched natural wealth holds within its folds, ideal conditions for a quiet retreat and restful time-off. The district is known for being the least populated in Kerala, which becomes extremely trangible in the quietude of the hills around Vythiri, where footfalls sound loud against the backdrop of impending silence. There are also a number of attractions in the vicinity, such as the neighbouring hill station of Lakkidi and Pookode Lake, as well as a number of luxurious resorts.

ORIENTATION

Vythiri lies on NH29 just south of Kalpetta, an unassuming small town with a number of interesting places to stay, many of which merge completely with the forest environs. All local attractions that may be of interest to tourists lie within 40km of the town. These are accessible by road. A vehicle can be engaged for sightseeing, without which one has to depend on local auto-rickshaws and cantankerous old jeeps. Often, this can be a harrowing experience for travellers, and hiring one’s own vehicle might be more comfortable, albeit expensive. It is also possible to use Kalpetta as a base for travelling all over Wayanad, in which case Vythiri makes an excellent day-long, overnight or weekend getaway.

A treehouse in Vythiri Resort surrounded by foliage

Prashant Panjiar

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Soochippara and Kanthanpara Falls

Travelling to the waterfalls is, in many ways, a perfect summary to Wayanad. The 28km drive along serpentine roads that meander through tea plantations and picturesque settings, will take you from Vythiri to the end of the motorable road near Soochippara. Tickets may be charged where the road ends, and vehicles can be parked here as well. Hereafter, a 1.5km walk will bring you to the waterfall which is also known as the Sentinel Waterfalls. Soochippara presents an attractive sight, threetiered and well-hidden by the dense forest. The waterfall cascades down, from a height of 200m, to the main pool, which is usually a major attraction for tourists. As this area tends to be slippery, especially during the rains, it is advisable to wear shoes with a good grip.

Adjacent to Soochippara, on the rocky side, are the Kanthanpara Falls. Smaller and slightly quieter than Soochippara, about 30-m-high, they make for an ideal picnic spot. To avoid exhaustion from a steep climb on the way back, try amlas (gooseberries) marinated in a special salty syrup offered in the makeshift shops along the route; they will rejuvenate you instantly.

Entry ₹20; Students ₹10 Parking Two-wheelers ₹5; Cars ₹20; Heavy Vehicles ₹50

Meenmutty Falls

Meenmutty is about 32km from Vythiri and 29km from Kalpetta, off the Ooty Road. The trail to this waterfall, which is 2km from the motorable road, is far less exhausting than the Soochippara path. These three-tiered falls are 300m high, and offer a more serene getaway than the Soochippara Falls. A forest resthouse near the falls also offers refuge. Though otherwise serene and safe, this place can be dangerous during the monsoons because of the unpredictable flooding that occurs here. Another 2km upstream from the Meenmutty falls are the Kombaikani Waterfalls where there is a forest rest house.

Clear waters of Pookode Lake

Prashant Panjiar

Lakkidi

Lakkidi, one of the highest points of the Wayanad District, at almost 3000ft above sea level, is known as the ‘Gateway of Wayanad’ because of its location at the crest of the Thamarassery Ghat Pass. Most tourists stop by here from Vythiri (5km away) and Kalpetta (14km away) for the gorgeous views and incredible photography, while some stay on at the expensive, relaxing luxury resorts in the area. It is worth knowing that the valley view area is sometimes visited by hordes of monkeys, though the locals swear that they are quite well-behaved.

Another interesting local sight is the Chain Tree, a giant ficus tree bound to the ground by chains. Located by the side of the road from Vythiri to Lakkidi, the Chain Tree finds itself in an interesting story of an adivasi youth Karinthandan, who guided a British engineer through the difficult terrain into Wayanad from Calicut. Eager to take the credit for the discovery, the engineer killed his guide. The young boy’s soul is said to have haunted the place in a vengeful rage, until a priest chained the spirit to this tree. The story is, in some ways, an elaborate metaphor of British dominion, hints of which can still be seen all over Kerala almost 70 years after independence.

Pookode Lake

Pookode Lake lies on the way back to Vythiri from Lakkidi, around 3km from the valley view area. A motorable road off the main road leads to the entrance of the lake, which is sometimes crowded with hundreds of holidaying families. Most tourists stick to the picnic area, which also offers boating and kayaking. You can visit the aquarium in the lake complex as well. The walkway around the lake offers a welcome relief from the melee.

Location Thalipuzha, 2km from Vythiri Entry Adults ₹10 Children ₹5 Timings 9.00am–6.00pm Boating Charges Pedal Boat ₹30 for two people; ₹50 for five people

Another attraction at the Pookode Lake is the Uruvu Eco Shop, which stocks a large number of products made out of 24 varieties of bamboo, mostly by the tribal women in the area. They also sell gift packets of spices, pickles and forest honey. If this shop is of interest, then you can also ask to visit their factory, 26km away, on the way to the Soochippara Falls. The factory is full of creative new products and designs.

Timings 9.00am–7.00pm Tel 04936-231400

Trekkers making their way to Chembra Peak

Courtesy Kerala Tourism

Karalad Lake

Located about 16km from Kalpetta, the Karalad Lake offers restful silence. The 7-acre lake is not as well known to tourists and picnic-goers, although it boasts of a recreational park with facilities for angling and boating. Banasura Dam lies 3km further from the Karalad Lake.

Location Thariode, north of Pookode Lake, 8km from Vythiri Timings 9.00am–6.00pm Boating Pedal Boat ₹50 for 20 min

Chembra Peak

Chemra Peak is visible from most parts around Vythiri, like a steadfast sentinel watching over all in the area. Looming over the region, it is the tallest summit of the area, at 2,100m above sea level. While locals claim that one needs four hours to reach the summit from the base camp, for the uninitiated city-bred climber it could take a bit longer, especially as the climb is often steep and slippery. For this reason, travellers are advised to start early. About two-thirds of the way up lies a beautiful, clear lake, shaped quite distinctively like a heart. This offers a brief respite, temporarily erasing the exhaustion of the climb. Chembra is quite an obsession in the area, and some people come to Wayanad only to scale the peak. The District Tourism Promotion Council organises guided treks to the peak, as well as wildlife treks around the region, for groups of up to 10 people. It is also possible to hire a guide from the DTPC office and trek to the peak on your own, as long as you have a permit from the Forest Department at Meppadi (₹500 for up to 8 people; Entry ₹10). Private companies such as the Wayanad Trekkers (W wayanandtrekkers.com) also conduct treks to Chembra.

WHERE TO STAY

There are a number of places that you can choose in and around Vythiri, depending on the size of your wallet. At the top-end is undoubtedly the Vythiri Resort (Tel: 04936-255366-67, Cell: 09447055367, 09287221130; Tariff: ₹15,000–30,000). It is 3.5km from the main road. The approach to the resort is rugged and unpaved, enhancing the feel of the jungle. It is spread across 150 acres in the middle of thick rainforests. It has a natural swimming pool and a hanging bridge that seems to imitate the gentle swing in your mood. The resort even has its own trekking routes. Staying in this resort could itself be a complete holiday. Since it has now become a retreat for big corporates, you need to book your accommodation here well in advance.

Traditional cottage at Rain Country Resorts

Sanjoy Ghosh

The Windflower Resort & Spa (Cell: 09895221166, 08129823661; Tariff: ₹23,160–34,030 for 3D/ 2N) lies in the tranquil Annapoorna Estate amidst coffee and tea plantations with beautiful cottages and villas. They have a restaurant, swimming pool and a spa.

Jungle Park Resorts (Cell: 09847447447; Tariff: ₹6,500, tree house ₹12,500, with meals) in Finster Hills offers Ayurvedic treatments, hammocks, trekking, birdwatching, elephant safaris, horse rides, sightseeing tours to the Upper and Lower Wayanad wildlife sanctuaries, Pazhassi Raja’s tomb, Kuruvadweep, Pakshipathalam, Edakkal Caves, Thusharagiri Falls, Chembra Peak, Meenmutty Falls, Pookode Lake and the Thirunelly Temple. Ente Veedu (Tel: 04935-320494, 220008; Tariff: ₹2,500–4,000) is a homestay located near the geographical heart of Wayanad in Panamaram, 15km north of Kalpetta. The Colonial-style home is set in coffee and pepper plantations and paddy fields. Ente Veedu, meaning ‘my home’ in Malayalam, takes pride in offering home-style Malabar hospitality. There are four rooms in the main house, plus a bamboo hut which has two bedrooms and an open sitting room. Meals are made from farm fresh ingredients. A small kitchenette is at hand for those who want to cook for themselves. Ayurvedic massage and a nature tour through vanilla, pepper, coffee and cardamom plantations are also arranged.

Dhanagiri Homestay (Cell: 09497492882; Tariff: ₹4,000, bungalow ₹10,000) on Anoth Road, is another good option. The rooms are clean and spacious and tasty home-cooked meals are offered.

In Lakkidi, the beautiful Rain Country Resorts (Tel: 04952511997-99, Cell: 09946487771/ 72/ 74; Tariff: ₹4,500–7,500) has a natural pool in its front garden, perfect for lazy swims. Set amidst hills, this hotel incorporates the beauty of its setting into its design. The eight comfy cottages have elegantly appointed bathrooms lit with natural light. Apart from lots of indoor and outdoor games, they also arrange fishing expeditions and sightseeing around Lower Wayanad. Lakkidi Village Resort (Tel: 216565, Cell: 09447881133, 09497441133; Tariff: ₹5,400–12,000) which is near Veterinary College is luxury option with all mod cons.

Al fresco seating in the pretty café at Green Gates

Sanjoy Ghosh

The cottages of Stream Valley Cottages (Tel: 04936-255860, Cell: 09447183436; Tariff: ₹5,000–7,500) are very inviting. The traditional Kerala-style cottages are built on stilts, with thatched bamboo roofs, each with its own little garden. Kerala meals are served from the central kitchen, and guests can also do their own cooking in well-equipped kitchenettes. Vythiri Greens (Tel: 255111, Cell: 095448 27771/ 72; Tariff: ₹4,750– 5,500) has a lovely location amid verdant grounds.

Nearby Kalpetta also has some excellent hotels. Verdure Wayanad (Tel: 04936-202079; Tariff: ₹3,250– 4,500) is a resort with nine rooms on offer. Green Gates (Tel: 04936202001-04, Cell: 09447640559; Tariff: Rs. 3,500–6,750, with two meals) offers rooms and a tree house, a swimming pool, spa, and more. Hotel Haritagiri (Tel: 203145-48; Tariff: ₹1,700–4,500), 2km from Green Gates, is where you will find a beer parlour and a restaurant, besides accom-modation. The hotel has 27 rooms and six cottages and also offers a swimming pool. There’s a huge outdoor play area for children here. Ayurvedic treatments, Internet and sightseeing tours of Wayanad are other facilities here. Next in line would be The Woodlands (Tel: 202547, 203677; Tariff: ₹1,124– 3,600), which is a good option with 33 rooms, restaurants, Ayurvedic massage and a travel desk. Royal Palm Resort (Tel: 206096, 206224, Cell: 09447143124; Tariff: ₹1,500– 4,500) has 25 rooms, a restaurant and Ayurvedic treatment centre, trekking, boating and outdoor games. Hotel Affas (Tel: 205185, Cell: 09447234024; Tariff: ₹1,000– 1,500) offers 33 rooms and a restaurant, near Kalpetta’s bus stand.

Food served on a plantain leaf

Saibal Das

WHERE TO EAT

Most hotels and resorts in and around Vythiri offer multi-cuisine fare. One of the more highly recommended restaurants here is Coffee Grove, located on the way to Pookode Lake, offering freshly prepared Indian food, with fast and congenial service.

Rain Country and the Vythiri Resort are well known for their authentic Malabar cuisine. Rain Country uses vegetables fresh from their kitchen garden to accompany excellent seafood, while the restaurant at Vythiri Resort serves delicious food on a banana leaf, offering fluffy appams to offset spicy Malabar chicken and Mangalorean fish curries. Top it all off with payasam to truly complete to the experience. Wayanad Gate has good ambience and offers south Indian, north Indian, Chinese and Continental fare.

Kalpetta, nearby, has more options. 1980’s A Nostalgic Restaurant has good ambience and mouth-watering Kerala cuisine. Hotel Pankaj, attached to the PPS Tourist home, and Haritagiri offer authentic Malabar cuisine. The latter also offers Mughlai, north Indian and Chinese food. They are also the only bars here which also offer a family ambience. Hotel Woodland’s restaurant offers a wide range of cuisines and dishes. For a quick bite near the bus station, stop by Kalpetta Restaurant, they offer excellent and authentic Kerala food as well.