Rabindranath Tagore often visited his tenants in Kushtia, Rajshahi and Pabna—now in Bangladesh—on a boat across the Padma. His journeys straddled two centuries, the late nineteenth and early twentieth. Cut to the 21st century. The bard’s long gone; the places remain, albeit with signs of modernity sweeping through the landscape. The options would be plenty for Tagore today, if he sought to swap transport. He could take a train, or a car from his ancestral home at Jorasanko in Calcutta, and reach his destination crossing a gleaming steel and concrete bridge across the Padma—the second most unpredictable and treacherous river in the world after the Amazon.