Culture & Society

Rohit Bal: A genius that burned fiercely, briefly, memorably

The twinkle-eyed Peter Pan, ambisexual, gender fluid in the most endearing ways, brought his quintessential fey quality to his design.

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Rohit Bal (1961-2024)
One of a Kind: Fashion designer Rohit Bal poses during an interview on September 1, 2017 | Photo: Getty Images
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When the yadayadayada of the “how-nice-how-sweet-what-a-genius” chorus is all the surround sound it’s time to press the pause button; step back a bit…

It helps. Clears addled perspectives. Get a true measure of the man.

The twinkle-eyed Peter Pan, ambisexual, gender fluid in the most endearing ways, brought his quintessential fey quality to his design. “I make gorgeous lehengas because I want to wear one,” he said! The whimsy gave it flight, the genius rendered it incandescent, exceptional, memorable. In his swirling 50-metre Meghdoot muslins , his jewel-toned signature roses, lotuses, peacocks embroidered, printed, embossed, highlighted in gold, silver, emerald, midnight blues on silk and velvet; what you saw was a love letter, a paean to his beloved Kashmir: his playground, his muse, the land of his birth.

The Issey Miyakes of the world romanced distilled minimalism, the Gallianos embraced surprise, drama, shock, spectacle. Rohit aka Gudda did that and more. He romanced paradox—his minimalist/maximalist design erred on the right side of excess in its impeccable cut, design, silhouette. He was unique in his embrace of tradition, which in his rendition became a cosmopolitan, timeless classic. Worn with pride by the Naomi Campbells, Kate Winslets, Sonam Kapoors, assorted grand dames of the smart set.

Through it all he retained his human touch, his generous Kashmiriyat that informed his life, his humanity, his design.

Sure, he was flawed. Like most of us. Only human. But what a glorious Icarus he was: soaring dazzlingly towards the sun even as he disintegrated. Supreme exemplar as well as victim of his own undeniable genius! Ah, a genius that burst into flame, burned fiercely, briefly, memorably. As a comet always does.

RIP my friend...Gudda is dead. Long live Gudda!

Sunil Mehra is a Delhi-based journalist, TV producer and anchor